eastanglianbiker

using a size conversion table the tyre size is the same front and back on a ybr125 2.75/18 = 90/90/18 and the p is the speed rating.look down this chrat and you will see the sizes http://www.cb450stuff.com/tires/

here you go the front tyre you need http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-75-18-Michelin- ... 45f5aa9097

most bike shops can order them in for you and you might have to play about with a few diferent sizes before you get it right

the cap itself will have a small hole in it to allow tank to breathe it will be that blocked as mega says need to try and strip the lock out and have a good clean up in it

yeh +1 for valve clearences

theres the weekend fully booked by gt now............

the other engine that fits straight in is the yamaha dt125 engine as they are the smae engine in different frames

as ingah says mole grips might fit failing that you might have to cut a slot in the head and use a screwdriver in it.you will have to get the carbs out of the way by removing them with the inlet rubber in place but they will come out

can only see the pics of the rear shocks and the paint has lifted off them about all you can do is try and rub them down gently and possibly spray them black again or replace them.depends on where the rust is in the front forks if its on the top sections then you will be able to polish them up with good chrome polish

locksmiths have a tool they slide into the barrel and it tells them what cuts and how deep so if they have a blank they can cut it

if the number is on the bottom of the ign unit that is normally the number.if you have lock smiths near you that can cut keys from blanks pop in and see them as they might be able to do it for you and would be cheaper than yamaha

does it not tell you in the manual what the max output should be but i think you are around the right voltage at 8v mid range revs

the black swan in yarmouth used to have meets friday nights only one i know of

get the best 2nd hand one you can find and any wires in it that have been cut if any use your loom to replace them

ebay or ring round breakers mate unlikely to find one new

it will be a very small hole in the cap and will vent out the top check the condition of the seal around the cap as well

just arrived so thought i best post pic of it to keep people happy

hi and welcome to the forum if you plan on sticking around pop into new bies and introduce yourself if the bike is that low mileage it might benefit from a service including all the usual bits and pieces and might also need the valve clearances doing

the return spring is pictured here as item number 11 it could also be the main selector shaft number 9 is bent and causing it to stick where it passes through the seal.when you took clutch out could you see the spring showing behind main clutch housing ? http://www.hondaofbournemouth.co.uk/pro ... -4242.aspx

if you have got a bench vice and blow torch of some kind keep heating it up around the alloy part of the caliper and psir of mole grips on the outer edge of the piston it will hopefully move in the end as the alloy heats quicker than the steel piston

yes the whole lot apart no other way of getting to the gearbox itself

i would read it as 500cc if only changing oil and more if you are taking forks apart completly to change the seals

if its inside the gearbox you will need a full gasket set as well as the cases are l/h and r/h sides instead of top and bottom so will mean cylinder head and barrel off as well

you need to check its charging the battery when its running you should have about 14 to 15 volts with engine at mid range revs

you could give these guys a call if you havent already http://www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/

yes this could well be the cause of the problems as its the idle jets that bike runs on up to around the 3000rpm mark then the main jets take over