eastanglianbiker

if it has bent selector fork then yes you are looking at fairly big bill as engine needs to come out of the bike and the crankcases opend up to change the selectorwould of thought you are looking at 8 hours+ on the labour side of it plus cost of fork and gaskets

would normally change the friction plates which are the ones with the ear pointing outwards on them to locate in the clutch housing slots

at 40,000 miles i would of had them done at least twice by then just to make sure they were set correctly

should be ok to jump start off the van as long as the engine isnt running then disconnect the jump leads from van straight away dont touch the two jaws together and remove them from the bike battery will need to be run for a fair while to put some charge back into bike battery

give the wd40 a try it might just be the switch is sticky in which case it would help saves buying anything so got nothing to lose by it

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165750 works differently to wd40

sounds like the switch needs cleaning up or the flasher relay is on ites way out try spraying some switch cleaner in around the contacts on the switchgear first

you should be able to use one off of another bike without to many problems i think ita yamahe have different drive ratio but most others are the same

leave the disc on no point unbolting it for no reason and as sprocket carrier just pulls out take it off makes it easier for them as they would remove it anyway

if you can get the wheel off yourself and take it to tyre shop will be lot cheaper than a mobile fitter or ride it to shop and let them do it

use some soapy water around the bead of the tyre it might not be sealed properly an around the valve if thats the case go back to bike shop u got them from and see if they will reseal it

depends on the mileage they dont need doing every service and if they are getting noisy u will hear a ticking sound from top end of engine so check in service guide at what mileages they should be done at if near that time get them done

the white smoke is also the condensation from the exhaust whichs forms when it is cooling down

they are listed as 2005/2006 but might be the same http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

and these you would need to fit your rubber sections onto http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-YBR125-YBR ... 5d2c217607

there are brand new clocks on the evilbay for £115 and front footrest bars for £15 and under if thats any help to you

what bike is it ?

they are located behind the left hand engine casing if it has points they could be out of adjustment or pitted badly and need replacing to replace you will need to remove flywheel

cheapest on the evilbay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/yamaha-xj600-dive ... 3363ccff0e

points ign or elctronic ? could be a few different things

have u taken the bleed nipple right out of the caliper it might be blocked otherwise it does sound like its master cylinder rebuild or replace time.you can get kits to repair them,also check that the brake hose itself hasnt collapsed inside due to age

also check the pick ups on the end of the crankshaft that send the signal to the cdi as the problem could be down there check resistance and do a check on the wires up to the cdi in case it has a broken wire

if you are not sure if bike is 6 volt or 12 volt it is written on the side of the bettery or if you can only see the top of the battery and there are some caps u can see if there are 3 caps =6volt/6caps=12volt

if you are using a car battery charger on it do not leave it connected for more than 2 hours without checking it as car chargers run at a much higher amperage than bike battery chargers

i would of thought it would fit if its unversial email seller to confirm

to remove the tank after removing seat fuel line the bolt at rear u should just have to lift rear of tank slightly and pull towards the back of the bike it will then lift off as it should only be pushed into 2 rubber buffers at the front