eastanglianbiker

you could take it apart then but what is the reason for it should normally be clean in there anyway just be carefull of the seals inside it as you dont know what to expect might be a small spring in there as well

if its the same as the one in the pic it looks like it is sealed at the factory and cant be opened so would leave well alone

the left hand coil will run 1 and 4 the right hand coil will run 2 and 3

if its any help these guys are g ood ive got there kit on my 1100 suzuki http://www.lustracing.co.uk/

hope its a good size camping field.........

if you are that unsure pop round and ask him what its going to cost and dont forget you want all the kit back so you can make a bit selling it onto another newbie into the world of biking

the restriction washers will be in the rubber section that links the throttle bodies or carbs depending on which you have to the engine itself.basically those instructions are telling you to open the air box up and push the rubber that connect the carb to it back into the air box then loosen small screw in clip in front of the carb and move carbs back so you can see into the rubbers connecting to the engine.the washers will be in place inside that section of the rubber.rubbers connect to engine where marked in picture so you will need to raise carbs or throttle bodies,when you look at the rubbers that bolt onto engine you will see one side has a clip around it with a screw in to loosen it off to pull them up out of the way

if it is only turning engine off through kill switch are the rest of the electrics off as well or do the indicators lights horn etc still work when engine has stopped?

normally on the crank where the plate is with the timing marks on it one of the lines should have a T stamped next to it that will be the tdc mark for timing or use something down spark plug hole turn crank slowly untill it is at the top of the stroke and see which mark on crank plate lines up

where was ker5h today??????...........well done debs for not panicing

am i right in thinking you mean time for the tyre to settle in and be fully usable if so i normally ride easy for few miles then carry on as normall

ruthies try these they only do small people gear http://www.babybiker.com/ and not that far from you

silicon the wires up as well

would all depend on the end of the link pipe diameter the standard is normally 53mm

where you have to slide the frame sections together why not drill them and uss nuts and bolts untill its welded and the remove bolts and fill holes with weld that will give added strength to it

the settings for all 4 carbs should be about the same if you have got one all the way in the there is another problem check colour of plugs and each should be about 1 and a half turns out roughly

under normall conditions i normally turn the screw right in on each carb and then turn back to 1 1/2 turns out as basic setting on each one if it will run like that then fine turning of pilot screw mgiht correct problem

you might have to take carbs off again and check how the butterflies are sitting in the carbs and then operate linkage by hand see if they all moving the same

are the cables adjustable where they fit into on the carbs have you adjusted them there and on the throttle stop screw that is normally under that bracket?

is the throtle cable snaging somewhere if you look down at carbs and operate throttle is the unit the cables sit in operating properly,when throttle closed and revving at 3000 can you push the cable unit on carb down by hand,also its not uncommon for a bike to rev at 3000 when on full choke

check if the battery is charging put a volt meter on the battery with engine off then on tick over and then at about half throttle the readings should go up,if your bike has 12 volt electrics then at half throttle you should get a reading of about 14 to 15 volts if not then the charging coils could well be at fault.as well as david silver mentioned by dan you could try these guys as well http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/

yes as you have got to remove that casing to either change the friction plates or strip engine down but clutch is easist thing to try first

here is another kymco 125 carb http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kymco-people-S-12 ... 27b7c5fe8a have you got a pic of your orignal carb to help locate one the same as yours

well if you think you can do it then you will need to either change clutch first see if that cures the problem and if it doesnt then remove engine remove all outer cases around the engine and undo all the bolts to split crank cases in half find the damaged parts and replace them and put it all back together with new gaskets.it is very important that you get the torque settings right on the crank cases as they hold the crankshaft bearing shells and not tight enough will cause engine to knock and destroy itself to tight does same thing

problem you can encounter with having the car running is the alternator put out far more amps then the bike batery is meant to take and it can damage the plates in it can also over load the cdi unit of the bike