eastanglianbiker
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Everything posted by eastanglianbiker
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sounds like it could be either the switch or the relay for the indicators you need to check both items
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check the mixture screws on the carbs as well make sure carbs 3 and 4 are not in futher than one and 2 normall basic setting is about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out on all four
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the rocker cover gasket keeps the oil in the engine but a leaking one will mean you get oil around the joint but that wont allow it to get in around the cylinders to burn.if the plugs on 3 and 4 are going black then you need to check carb settings and mixture settings also possibly float height settings if they are wrong could be allowing to much fuel in carbs hence running rich and blackening the plugs
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sounds like you could have a dry link on the chain somewhere.or could also be to much slack in the chain make sure its adjusted correctly and lube it see what happens then
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Mod 1 Take 2 tomorrow!
eastanglianbiker replied to Yoshi's topic in CBT, Test and Advanced Training Information
good luck and hopefully it will mean your gpz isnt neglected for to long -
yes they are better then the rubber ones which you rightly say expand under braking,with the braiding they cant expand somake the brakes work better prices can vary greatly on the kits have a shop around but the prices you have are not to bad
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glad you got it sorted and cheaply well done
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if your bike only hold 3300 then you should have enough left over to top it up with
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treat yourself to some decent motorcycle chain lube i usewurth myself but there are plenty out there to choose from have a read of dans chain care guide found here http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... =5&t=21360
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you might find with the position of the sump plug it is better to drain it on centre stand check where sump bolt is before running bike
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then take it to another honda dealer see what they say
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is the honda warranty not 2 years still like it used to be??
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if the ign isnt cutting the spark to the coil it will keep running as most of the scooter type bikes can have the ign disconnected and still run.but could also be getting so hot it is running on pre ignition where top of piston is so hot it is causing the petrol in ignite and hence will keep running for as long as it wants to
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is it not a job you could cope with doing at home to save some money this is the part that needs replacing and you see how much you can get it for http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-YBR125-YBR ... 27b97cf4d0
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will need to drain oil remove clutch case possibly remove clutch basket itself mgiht not have to on that bike not sure then you should be able to pull gear selector bar out from clutch side and replace with new one make sure you get it lined up right (take note of position of old one before removing) put clutch back in if you had to remove it clean cases up new gasket torque it closed fill with oil is the minimum you will have to do
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before you go getting to upset with it just go round and check all the bolts are still torqued up
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depends on how much its leaking keep a regular check on oil level as the bike doesnt hold much to start with
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sounds like you need to drain the oil and remove clutch case then and have a look whats going on as the gear the kickstart shafts sits onshould be linked straight onto clutch cage gear so one or the other has failed either way casing off for closer look
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are you sure it is not turning the engine over as the xt250 has automatic decompression cable connected up to help you kick it over,so also check the cable is not holding the exhaust valve open all he time
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Defo need to remove oil? I can take the clutch cover off the SV with it on the side stand, with out draining the oil lol. yep i would remove oil if changing the clutch so that there are no clutch fragments left in engine
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depends on how much adjustment you have left in the chain and as you now know it has a tight spot make sure you use that as reference point for chain tension.get it well lubed up and see how it goes,if it is well on the way to full extent of adjustment then might well be time to replace
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clutch change all done from behind the big case on right hand side of the engine just need to drain oil first and get new gasket and oil to rebuild.
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got to agree there doesnt look like there is much good metal left there to weld to might be able to do it in big sections onto the original seams but will take some doing,think its time for replacement
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CAR HELP - twitchy steering wheel, apparently pulls slightly
eastanglianbiker replied to ENGBen's topic in Pitstop
i assume the air pressure was checked in the spare as that can cause the problem as well .....also recheck all wheel nuts are tight