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eastanglianbiker

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Everything posted by eastanglianbiker

  1. there would normally be a dust seal over that and its needs greasing NOW that is so dry it could break up and shatter
  2. a tent would be handy to put the sleeping bag in as well
  3. how far in is the adjuster bolt going and moving the wheel back has the chain come to the end of its life and wont adjust anymore
  4. undo the cable at either the top or the bottom and pull the inner piece out see if is the full length of the outer with about an inch extra it is normally a round cable with flat section on the bottom and square on the top it could just not be located correctly at one end or snapped
  5. then get it replaced as next time it jumps off it could lock the rear wheel up and spit you off it or bunch up around the front sprocket in which case it will break the engine cases and you will be looking at major alloy welding job or replacement engine
  6. it could be the chain jumping teeth on the sprocket under acceleration but when just rolling it wont do it thats why you need to check both sprockets and check chain is adjusted right as it clearly wasnt if it jumped off
  7. what condition are the chain and sprockets in as the rear one might be damaged check chain and both sprockets
  8. did it come from a dealer if so get on to them
  9. how far over the full line is it and are you checking it by just resting the dipstick on the top of the casing or screwing it in?
  10. i agree with mega it is best to get it welded correctly or it could become dangerous while riding
  11. shaft drives often feel clunky compared to chain drive bikes as the chaine would normally take up the play as you change gear but a shaft will transmit the change through the gearbox what bike is it ?
  12. you might be able to unbolt them and move them about without draining them if you are lucky
  13. check the bolts havent come loose or worse check frame hasnt split where side stand fits to frame
  14. i am meant to be going over on the sunday in the car with the mrs think my mobile number is in contacts section if any of the cambs east anglia lot need stuff transporting away from show and pick it up later if they need to
  15. well done see all those nerves were for nothing
  16. if everything goes smoothly all you should need is the gaskets for the pipes where they go into the head and the gaskets where the silencers join if there is meant to be any there and lots of time swearing and cursing wherebolts wont come undone or shear off.the head bolts i will be worth spraying up with wd40 or something similar a few times to allow the oil to penetrate as these are the ones most likely to shear when trying to undo them
  17. cheapest and easist way is to live with it and keep looking on ebay for one in the same colour and then just swap it over
  18. check the clutch adjustment sometimes it is on a rachet system fitted to pedal or other times it is on gearbox itself UNLESS it s hydraulic clutch
  19. when you say it wont go into first gear is it just grinding or wont select at all will it go into 2nd or any other gear,as from what you say it could be selector problem any where from gearstick to gearbox itself or the clutch has gone more info would help if an when poss
  20. if you look around you can get the modern taper roller bearing set for it, they are much better to use
  21. nope just lm grease i normally use the castrol one but any lm will do
  22. they are normally held in with grease they should be a tight fit right round the cup and then remove one of them this is the same for top and bottom cup.you might be able to get new caged roller bearings for it in shich case you will need to drift the old cups out of the frame and off the base of the bottom yoke
  23. dont forget david silvers as well who are the main uk supplier of older honda parts
  24. sounds like its sorted to me
  25. you turn it in for more fuel out for more air
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