Ricco1

Yeah well I could have beat myself up about it, but what's the point? Actually I had a bad feeling before the test. Not that it was in FAILsworth, I'm not superstitious. I didn't know the area, it was full of horrible humps, plus several 20 mph zones. The signs advising these are at first glance quite confusing (to me at least ), having both 20 and 30 written on them. I've already booked the next one, in Bredbury, which is close to where I live. I'm going to make sure I identify all the 20 mph zones before the test. Correcting the shoulder check thing is easy, starts from today, to form the habit. I guess it was always going to be a bit of a long shot, trying to do the whole thing without any instruction in such a short period of time. If this experience makes me a safer rider it's worth the 75 quid, although I wish he'd just advised me!

I failed! Missed a 20 mph speed limit sign. And then some of my second shoulder checks while turning right were too late. Oh well, try again in 3 weeks!

Great, thanks! I have one final question: While riding around the area I came across a significant roundabout. The sign suggested there was a turn off to the left, then another which was beyond 180 degrees, i.e. beyond straight on, a slight right turn if you like. I took up the right lane and indicated right. It turned out that the second road was in fact almost straight on. I could have stayed in the left lane, not indicated to turn right. If my tester takes me via this roundabout, do you think I should take up the right lane and indicate? the sign suggests that...

Thanks for those replies, very useful. I've been up to the test centre today (Failsworth, Manchester), to have a look around. It's horrible! Lots of mini roundabouts, humps etc. 2 questions arise: 1/ At a 'mini' roundabout, if going straight on, do you still need to indicate left after passing the road on the left? 2/ Road humps that don't cover the full width of the road. Would it be an error to avoid them? Assuming nothing is coming the other way of course, is it ok to go close to the middle of the road so you go through the 'flat' spot? Or otherwise, would it be seen as a fault to go close to the kerb, to avoid the hump to on the left of them? Thanks again. Getting nervous now!

I've got my mod 2 on Wednesday, I've not employed an instructor. I'm basically going off what I learned in the CBT together with common sense, and many years of driving/ riding. Thought it worth checking though; as regards what shoulder checks to do before setting off from the kerb/ traffic lights/ roundabout, or any other situation when you're stationary. My understanding is this: Right shoulder check only, if moving off from the kerb. Left and right shoulder checks in all other setting off situation. Have I got that right? Also, are shoulder checks necessary before accelerating from dead slow (say 5 mph in traffic). I guess a cyclist could be tearing through a gap... Thanks

Mod 2 next wednesday, everything crossed here!

I used my low revs approach. Passed! Just marked down for one minor error, going through the speed trap at just 45 for the swerve. Thrashed my little Suzuki Gn the next time, just managed 51!

Thanks for the replies. I can't refer to my instructor, I don't have one, I'm doing this independently!

I have my mod 1 tomorrow. I remember from my cbt, when carrying out slow manouevres, my instructor told me to use plenty of revs, clutch control, and the back brake, all together. Personally, and I've ridden bikes for many years, I find it easier to use finer clutch control at close to tickover revs, and rarely use the back brake. Will I be marked down for riding in this way? Also, I tend to wobble a little bit when doing these things, will the examiner expect that, or mark me down? Also, I find it easier to do the slalom and figure of eight at a slightly higher speed than I've seen on many utube videos. This rules out the wobbles. Would the examiner fail me for going too fast, if I have good control? Is this something I could perhaps ask the examiner, before I do the exercise? Thanks

I've got my mod. 1 next tuesday in Bredbury. I visited the site this morning to have a look and although it was closed, it was useful to see it from a distance. What I did notice, on the gate, was a sign saying "high visibility clothing must be worn on this site". I'm also aware that you should wear 'appropriate' clothing for your test. I'm intending to wear my black motobike jacket, which has a white (high visibility?) stripe on each arm. Jeans (waterprroofs over the top if it's wet) and boots will complete my attire. Plus a helmet, obviously. Will this be ok do you think?

Thanks bogoff. That's settled an argument between me and my dad, in my favour! How about in a designated turning lane, other traffic around, do you need to indicate?

Thanks for that bogoff. Does that mean that if you execute say a right turn off a main road, there is no traffic whatsoever in sight, you don't need to indicate?

Might seem like a silly question but when you do the u turn in the mod 1, should you use your indicator?

Update: Took and passed my theory on wednesday, booked it 2 days earlier. I have mod 1 booked for next tuesday, then mod 2 for the following wednesday. So if all goes well, and with a dose of luck, I'll have easily done it in time!

9 weeks waiting? my god! Does anyone know how long the wait is in the Manchester area? Tried to go through part of the booking process to find out, but couldn't without a valid theory certificate...

I'm going to live in Poland for a year, in around 6 weeks. I've checked, my CBT isn't recognised so unless I pass my full test sharpish I'll be stuck on a 50cc. Not a nice thought. I haven't completed any part of the test at this time. Do you think it's realistic to take all three parts within a 6 week period? Obviously, taking the next part would depend on success with the previous one. I'm confident of that but of course, there are no guarantees. Does anyone know what waiting times there are at present (I live in Stockport) and if an element of the test can be cancelled/ put back if a previous one is failed? Any ideas how you might approach this? Thanks for your help.

Thanks again so it is an MOT fail! The indicators are bulb, rather than led... I'm thinking that the best thing to do might be to take the bike back to the shop where I bought it. I asked them at the time if the fast flashing would be a problem for the MOT. They said not. The bike is still within a 2 month "all things mechanical" warranty. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks all 4 indicators flash at this high speed, reving the engine makes no difference. The indicators are cheap replacement ones. Do you think the simple solution could be to replace the bulbs with higher wattage ones? It is an mot fail, right?

The indicators on my GN 125 flash around 150 times a minute. A friend told me that anything over 120 a minute will cause an MOT fail. Can anyone confirm this? If so, what's the easiest way to slow them down? Thanks

Yes I probably didn't explain that very well. It's the fork legs that I have the problem with, rather than the chrome plated thinner bits that slide inside the legs. It's strange how they have corroded, powdery white stuff rather than red/brown rust. Maybe they're made from aluminium? I don't know...

My 2006 Suzuki GN 125 is in pretty good condition overall. One area that lets it down is its forks. The coating has broken down in some areas leading to oxidisation. I've tried to remove this with Autosol, but it's made little difference. I'm now thinking of trying wire wool. If this fails I guess I'll have to resort to painting them. Any other ideas? and, if wire wool works, is there a clear coating available that would stop them oxidising again? Cheers

Thanks for that. Eventually managed to remove it, located the leak, exopied it, seems a good repair so far!

Hi all I own a Honda 160GL Megapro here in Indonesia. It's a 2005 bike, similar to a CG I guess. I noticed a slight petrol leak from the tank the other day. I took it in to a garage, they said they could get it repaired for me, by welding. When they took the tank off though they noticed that it had been repaired previously, with some kind of glue. They say this prevents it from being welded. They applied more 'glue' for me, said it should be OK for a while. There is still a slight leak. I'll only have the bike for another 3 months so I don't really want to go to the cost of a new tank, painting, decals etc. I'd like to do my own repair if possible. I've tried to remove the tank but I'm having some difficulty. I removed the seat and side panels, and the 2 bolts at the very back of the petrol tank. I also removed the fuel line from the tank. Now I'm stuck, as I can't work out how to remove the tank! I've tried pushing it backwards and forwards, it does move a little, but I can't lift it off. You'll more than likely not know the exact model but I'm hoping that most small honda's tanks might be attached in a similar way. Any ideas anyone? Also, do you think a 2 part exopy, similar to Araldite, might be suitable to fashion a temporary repair? Thanks for your time. Rich

I ride a Honda 160 Megapro here in Indonesia, which is similar to a CG. Over the last few days I've noticed a squeaking sound when I'm riding the bike. It's like you might hear on a push bike if you hadn't oiled the wheels or something... It's loud enough to be heard when I'm going at 30mph. I've spun the wheels at separately at home, no sound at all! There's no play in the wheels so on the face of it, the bearings seem ok, to me at least. The squeaking sound stays the same, whether the clutch is engaged or not... I'm baffled as to what this might be. Any ideas? Thanks

I adjusted the rear drum brake today on my Honda GL160, here in Indonesia. There had been a fair bit of travel on the rear brake pedal before it bit, hence my adjustment... I did it as follows: With the back wheel off the ground I tightened the adjusting nut on the rear brake until it started to slow the wheel when I spun it. I then backed off the nut half a turn. I'll point out at this stage that my back brakes are very squeaky. All was fine until I picked up my pillion this afternoon. When she got on and I moved off, the squeaking started even though I didn't engage the rear brake. I checked that it wasn't seized on, no problem there. I tried to back off the adjusting nut by hand and managed to do this a little, but the squeaking continued. Is this normal? does carrying a pillion bring forward, so to speak, the biting position of the rear drum brake? Any thoughts gratefully received. Oh, and why are my brakes so squeaky? It's very loud...