Tigs

Hi, can anyone advise what battery pack I'd need to run a heated gilet?

Please can I be 33

Actually I'd be happy with learners.. but I'd want to change the order 1 - Theory test with hazard test 2- CBT - only passed if you are safe on the road potentially combine this with most elements of Mod 1- cones - figure 8 - stopping (in all 3 ways). I'd remove the U turn - whilst it is a useful skill - it is not essential for riding IMO At this point you can only ride up to 125.. as you have shown you are safe 3 - Mods - take 'higher bikes' u turn on the road - although I'm still not sold on the 'test' situation - some people really struggle with the pressure - and this is a snapshot - not ness indicative of how safe you are!

Does anyone know 'why' the CBT is only valid for 2 years.

I'm messaging you

I was told to just observe observe observe.. My CBT ran out about 4 days after my 3rd test. the extra pressure didn't help but I passed.

I'm looking, I already have a gladius (I bought it to do mod 2 but have only been out with instructors on it - so it will nice to be able to just ride.. without pressure .. I keep grinning (it's taken me 4 years to get here.. passed with 4 days left on a cbt PHEW!)

I passed mod 2 yesterday .. whooop whoop!

Honestly, I thought I would never get all the bits right - but have kept practicing and practicing If you have failed a Mod1 - keep going

Passed my Mod 1 today The instructor was lovely (I was so nervous he cracked a smile and was really encouraging). Somehow got muddled on the figure 8 (every time I've practiced I've done it the other way around..) but never mind! I got 1 minor - first Hazzard was too slow - so go to redo it - and cot 48KM per hour - he said that was the slowest I could go and passed.. so I'm dead chuffed. On to mod 2

Not been here for ages (had lots of drama over the summer... ) trying to build confidence at having a go at Mod 1 again (there are no spaces for tests here.. which does not help) You are not alone!

I think they mean if after lubing it it is still tough - maybe a previous owner put heavier springs in. My OH tweaked the bike and sys it is far smoother running - but I've bot been well so not been out on the bike for a bit - sad times.. Just feel well enough nowt the weather is getting a bit shite!

Have you rung bike sure - they might insure you for a day to get your CBT ... but you would need someone to get your bike to the center - for you to learn on (you'd be insured to drive under instruction). If you ring them and explain they will give you advice (as a heads up 1 day was about £50 for me and 2 months was near £100). I too would look around for other schools - ring and ask to sit on any lowered bikes they have - good luck

I haven't removed the clutch but it looks to run smoothly - I have been adding teflon lube to the clutch - and it is now running a fair amount smoother than it was. I may just have to get used to it (my old bike is a 125 and that has less 'pull' so to speak.

Hi I'm after advice really - I have a suzuki sfv 650 gladius 2010. She has a very hard clutch - i'm looking into what I can do. I've oiled the clutch cable and adjusted it - but it still seems super strong. I've heard I can 'grease the worm drive.. but will need to look into this. I'm not sure if removing 'springs' is a 'novice' job or if I'd need to take it to a garage (or even if this is a good idea). I've also wondered about after market levers - would these help?