Ezituper

Yeh i'll be there

You should really be fine though this is my opinion based on a lot of years motorcycling and messing about with tyre sizes. Bear in mind you will loose some top end and turn in with larger tyres due to the extra weight which matters more on a 125 than say a 600 With thos e wheel widths you should keep a good tyre profile and so gain contact area wiith the road sorry track

years ago i rode home from work in my hi-vis and had a female cut me up so badly i hit her car with my leg though stayed on the bike. I managed to get her to stop so i could speak sweetly to her and her excuse..... The high-vis jacket confused her, she thought i was a workman stood in the road so pulled out. I don't wear one now, the ones that pull out wouldn't see you if you had laser beams cutting pieces out of their car.

a 120 front tyre will slow your steering thats on the assumption it will fit safely on the width of the front wheel you have. the higher profile of the rear tyre will quicken up your steering again so maybe cancel out the effects but again is the rear wheel wide enought to accomodate a 160 tyre and is there enough clearance past your chain etc. If you fir larger width tyres to your wheels you will find the profile of the tyre will be pulled to a rounder shape than the tyres already fitted, this effect really gives you almost no extra contact patch. Conclusion. Wider tyres will have little or no effect other than being cheaper. check the width of your wheel and check with tyre manufacturers to see if their tyres can be fitted to those width rims. If they say no then don't as tyre fitters will do what you ask so you pay them, should you get any problems they will say they told you not to do it.

Good luck if they are going to use an easy out as i doubt they have one small enough to remove a caliper pin, plus those pins can seize due to the heat in the caliper and the crud off the road etc, and i've seen more easy outs snap than work. make sure they drill into the pin square too you don't want them taking any metal off your caliper. Garages like to think they can do anything, i would want to watch them do anything to my barkes.

I find my Kevlar jeans comfier cooler and lighter both on and off the bike, but you will get hot legs on weather like this afternoon.

If its snapped off flush i don't envy you, if you can get to either end with some mole grips try undoing it. If it has snapped off flush you might need to split the caliper unless you can get pliers to it at some point along its legth, maybe where it goes through the pads Hope it isn't corroded and tight, good luck

Is it just a pin or does it have threads? Can you get to both ends if its a pin?

Sorry had to correct this one as messing with suspension can be dangerous Its not compression as such its preload Not all rear shocks have the single nut some have an adjustment nut and a locknut.

The nut on the bottom of the spring actually increases or decreases the preload on the spring. Increasing makes the rear stiffer. Turn the nut/adjuster on the bottom of the sping so it shortens the sping. Do it in small amounts or one click at a time or you could end up with a dangerous mix front to rear. A small increases in rebound too if you have that adjustment or you'll end up with a bouncy rear and not just the wifes.

Sorry to say i can't believe i read this thread Slide down the road once in normal jeans or have slightly hotter legs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In case anyone needs somewhere to aim for this sunday http://www.britevents.com/whats-on/hert ... 10/193834/

Is it the cricketers in Ickleford?

Better have my baby on here CB1000R

Easiest way to check wheel alignment is to get someone to sit on the bike hold it vertical and hold handlebars straight ahead Place a long stright piece of wood/metal so its touching the rear tyre in 2 places and extends forward past the front tyre check the gap between the wood and the front tyre Do the same the other side Really it should only be out in one direction which you can adjust using the rear wheel chain adjusters until the gaps are the same either side If he means the wheels are out of alignment in the vertical then you have a problem Once you have the gaps correct check the front wheel is straight when the handlebars are in the straight ahead position If not you can loosen the top and bottom yolk pinch bolts and pull straight thn retighten.

The worst derestriction i've done was a DT125 which had a washer in the exhaust half way down which meant cutting and rewelding after removing the washer, nowadays a new pipe would maybe be cheaper

I would not encourage destricting before you have passed your test but Pull off the airbox and look through the carbs with a torch and with the throttle open. You should be able to see if there is a restriction ie not full bore all the way through. The restriction is normally between the carbs and inlet rubbers or even the rubbers themselves. I dunno if they still use this method but there can be washers in the exhaust normally visable from the cylinder head end

Where do you all ride from exactly?

Get them stripped and black anodised?