uk190

power the headlamp directly from the battery. that way you'll see if it just rubbish or if there is something highly resistive in the circuit like a bad connection or crap wire. you can remove the whole headlamp to tdo this or use jump leads direct from your battery to the bulb wiries. be careful tho and an assistant might be useful etc etc.

theres no relation between having a magneto and not having a battery. i am surprised that any road vehicle has no battery. surely even from a safety point, having lights and indicators is nice feature when the bike isnt running. my 1981 zr50 had a magneto but even that had a battery. WTF is this reiju thing? some sort of pit bike lol.

http://www.riejuforum.com/

i dont think speedo healers are automatic. fairly sure the one on my gsxr5750 had to bee adjusted manuallly in increments. ie 3% plus etc.

have u still got the old sprocket tht you removed? if so look to see what size it is and calculate what size front sprocket would give the same final drive. failing that, buy new sprockets and experiment on the track to see which ones suit your expectations the best.

acceleration increased = top speed reduced. you asked for increased acceleration, not an increase in top speed. yhou cant have both without increase engine power..

what did the calc say? and yes, a smaller front sprocket increases acceleration, just like it does on a push bike.

i like it in theory and on paper it is awesome. the reviews really rate it. however, wouldi buy one? i seriously doubt it. for me, ducatis are like expensive call girls. i can see the appeal and why some folks would, but for me, at this point in my life. no thanks.

if you have no idea about gearboxes then how do you know its f**ked? it could be a simple rebuild. it might just be a broken cog or worn bearing. a rebuild could be cheaper than a replacement box/engine. which is why i suggested having someone look at it for you. ho hum.

loads. google it. there no way all the differences could be described on here. trying to diagnose issues like this on a forum is nigh on impossible. you will need someone with experience in bike mechanics to have a listen to your bike. it well be normal. it could be oil level. or given that its a Chinese it may well be fooked.

not if, as stated in your first post, youve already just bought one. just buy a smaller front sprocket. for future reference, the amount of teeth is stamped onto each sprocket. check this out http://www.sprocketcalculator.com/

google gearing calculators. it will tell you what sprcket combinations work. tbh, if you changed the chain and rear sprocket you should have changed the front. that way you will garantee that the pitch matches etc.

i do and i dont. i have three bikes. the R1 is not sorn, however i wont ride it in the shit winter weather, i have no need to. the gsx cafe racer is sorn cos it is not MOT'd so is not being used. the Chop's tax and insurance have just ran out. as i intend to to rebuild it over the winter there was no point insuring or taxing it.

i'll be interested to see if you actually learn anything from bikesafe bob. given how long youve been riding etc having heard rach's feedback from her bikesafe course i doubt i will ever partake. they are running a bikesafe course at work for a discounted price of either £29 or £39 (cant rememeber for sure). apart from it being run in work time i am not convinced if it will be of benefit. an advanced rider course may be a different story tho.

im fairly sure that when littlecat and rach did bike safe they both had aftermarket cans on their bikes. i think as long as you cans dont state for race use only and are obnoxiously loud then you should be fine. but i doubt youll get a definitive answer as not only will this differ from county to county but from copper to copper. so even if someone whos done cambs bikesafe offers an answer it may not apply to your observer. you could always ring and ask them lol

good theory, unless the thieves are playing a variation of the "pull a pig" game.

security lights are a good deterrent. ground anchor and sold secure approved chain. decent disk lock. decent alarm/immobiliser such as the datatool s4 red. decent garage security (or shed). you cant stop them stealing it if they really want it. your best plan is to make it harder to steal than someone elses bike. therefore, if they cannot wheel it away or lift it into van then they will go and steal a different bike.

park it in the house..

nope. i will be at my bike clubs rally.

typical

do a compression test. depending on the result, strip the engine and see what it looks like inside. if your unsure of what your looking at/for, take the engine (in bits) to a bike garage for their opinion.

maybe. maybe not lol. if your bike has been over heating due to the lack of cooling because your bike has been loosing its coolant because of the damaged gasket then you may have warped/cracked your head or even the block.

i remember the hours i spent on my fz750. it had spent a lot of time beuing raced on the track before i bought it for the road. it wouldnt run properly below 4k and was rough unless being thrashed. although i did love the flames and the way it popped and banged on the over run i messed around with different jets/air filters and the full lazer exhaust system. i could never get it running as i wanted it to despite wasting hours and hours fettling, re jetting and riding up and down the road. it took a garage less than an hour to sort the carbs/fuelling out and get it running properly. twas then that i learned the limitations of road tests and Butt dynos. i learned a load more when i had my R1 tuned at Track Electronics in norwich earlier this year. just a slight tweak to AFRs can make a huge improvement to the smootheness of the power delivery and throtttle response. without the ability to see this data in realtime all you have is guesswork and run the risk of getting it seriously wrong and potentially destroying a piston or two if you end up too lean.

lol. id be dissapointed in athing that 11 seconds to hit 60. using a Butt Dyno is ok for seeing if things like gear ratio changes have made a difference etc or to see if a bike feels like its running properly. but to obtain usable and accurate "data" you need something a tad more advanced.

just to clarify and expand on what stu said. make sure the multimeter in the volts DC setting and not AC or amps setting. before you start the following, just chack that your battery terminals are tight and corrosion free. 1.with the ignition off, connect the meter to the battery and note the voltage reading. 2.now turn the igniton and lights on, but dont start the bike and repeat the above test. note the reading. 3.start the bike and repeat the test with the engine running. note this reading. it should be between 12 and 14v. disconnect the meter and take the bike for a nice long ride as soon as you get home repeat all of the tests above. record each reading. wait 24hrs or so and repeat steps 1-3 and record each rreading. then post the results on here. then we can see if the charging system is functioning. if the battery is accepting a charge and if it is holding a charge. after this we could then move on to see what if any current is being drawn by the bike when its parked up to see if anything is draining your battery excessively. its pointless and annoying to buy a new battery only to find out for example that you have a duff alarm.