megawatt

Do you have an accurate way of measuring the two pipes.?

Are you saying that the two piped are a snug fit and the pipe is still blowing? There must be a gap somewhere.?

I did say "Normally" and logically it's the way to do it. Give it all night to run down the oil ways and camchain tunnel into the sump. If the engine has just been run, some of it is all over the engine? Anyway Yamahas aren't normal or logical

Good man! I don't usually replace the crush washer, just add a bit of silicone sealant. After you drain the oil, filter it through a fine guaze or paper filter. Have a look for metal bits, just in case. Also check magnetic sump plug if it has one.

Oil is normally checked cold mate. If it's in the sightglass at the correct level just before you ride it, that's correct. If it's not there the following day after being on centre or paddock stand all night you may have a problem, but I wouldn't worry if it's not leaking or burning it

Try charging it up slowly and then retrying it?

They can be repaired, up to a point, by Motoliner. Probs cheaper to buy a one off eBay!!!

Thanks Dan, sounds like autochoke or fuel pump to me. Can you disconnect pump and get it to pump fuel into a container? If autochoke, can you disconnect closing mechanism/spring and see how well it starts. I'll post this question on a coupla Blade Forums, if that's OK Dan???

If the front wheel is wobbling and the forks aren't, it's the wheel bearings. Soon sorted . If the head bearings are worn , you will feel a click as you pull bike forward and backward while holding the front brake on. Bit more involved and about £70 to £100 at a bike shop.

Strip the carb , give it a good clean, check and blow through all the jets, fuel and airways. If it needs a new diaphragm, but a new one from a main dealer and get yer bike running. It's worth nothing if it aint running!!!

I don't know, but if you Google and search on eBay, I'm sure you'll find summat. I make silencers and collector boxes. Never tried making headers yet . Gimme a shout if you don't find anything

Don't put any abrasives near chrome, including Autosol. You will just have to get used to cleaning the rust off with WD40 or ACF50. It will keep rusting and keep spreading. You can only slow it down by keeping it clean and dry. There is no coating that will stop the rust returning now,including paint, except rechroming. The only way to stop it completely is good quality stainless headers.

I had this with my Blade calipers last spring . Only sorted by borrowing a Mity Vac vacuum pump off a mate.

Think I'd go for the Workshop manual mate. Always been OK for me Dunno what's different about the other one???

Here to help mate, best check and WD those connections???

If you can get one lamp to flash, you will hear the relay clicking in time with the flash. Spray some WD40 on your indicator switch, after undoing the screws holding it on the handlebar. Excercise the switch a few times. If indicators still don't work, remove relay and connect battery to two connectors, possibly red and black wires and listen for a click.

Check your chain for tight spots. Pull the very back of the chain straight back off the rear sprocket, any more than 3mm , chain and or sprockets are knackered!!! Look at teeth on both sprockets , are they shiny or hooked? Pix will help.

Have you searched on "tension springs" on eBay or Google

Best reply I can give is DON'T. Most turbo'd bikes spend very little time being ridden. They look good on the car park, but don't usually last long. You don't need low compression pistons if you run low boost pressures, below 5psi , I think. You will need a seperate turbo oil tank , pump, switches and warning lights/pressure gauge. You won't need an intercooler, but you will need a wastegate/dump valve, opens to relieve turbo pressure and exhaust gas flow through turbo. You will probably need a beefed up clutch and better brakes. You will also need a fat wallet and a bicycle for when you lose your license

I'd like to offer you some help with fitting and sizing. Could you post some pix with and without leathers, just for research purposes you understand I'll get my coat!!!

Nice one and well done you. No reason why anyone can't do their own maintenance. Buy yerself a Haynes manual for your bike and if you can't understand the instructions, just ask on here. We are happy to help.

When ya goin mate, I might do a cheapie if there is one???

I,ll look forward to it mate. Gonna be between 9th n 13th April.

I won't be on my bike I'm afraid mate. Going to Derby to visit the outlaws. Was going to visit MadWilly to measure up for his new zorsts.

If wires are 6" too long, cut 4" out of each wire, strip back both ends, twist together, solder and insulate ends. When all wires shortened, wrap tape around all soldered endsvto make a single block.