Ali in Austria

I have a GoPro H3 Black that I am about to sell to help with the purchase of the new H4. (I also have 2 x H3+ Blacks so the H3 is surplus to requirements) It has only been used a few times. I bought it for the Gimbal on my Quad Copter but moved on to the H3+ soon after so it has been sat in the cupboard. Just the camera, battery, waterproof case and doors, mounts (1 x flat/ 1 x curved) Quick release Buckles (Standard and J Type) 3 way Pivot Arm and USB lead. No remote - Smart Phone App will do all you want it to do. £150 plus £15 postage to UK - 3-5 working days and signed for. If you want the Remote, £200 plus £15 postage to UK .

Information in the press out here only mentions cars so I am not sure if this will apply to motorcycles. http://uk.reuters.com/article/2014/10/3 ... BR20141030

The weather can be considerably colder in central Europe that time of year compared to the UK which benefits from the sea keeping temps up. I've driven from home to Calais in a blizzard all the way to Calais in mid November. Even Spain can often be colder than you think it will be. The Ferry direct to a Spanish Port though might be the best option. It is quite likely that the mountain regions such as Pyrenees and Picos will be affected by snow at altitude.

Cheapest solution is a waterproof over suit to go over whatever you have now. Downside is they aren't breathable and you can sweat inside. It can be a bit hit and miss with mid range price gear. Some does what it claims to, others don't. The likes of Rukka do the job but come at a price many consider to high. After years of accumulating "Bargains" that never worked I went over to Rukka about 10 years ago. Expensive but my first suit including the Rukka Steel jacket still keeps me warm and dry to this day. More surprising is it still fits, just. It doesn't matter how good or expensive any of the gear is, if you don't keep it clean it will leak and not be able to breath properly, even expensive materials such as Goretex. I use Nikwax Products. Nikwax Tech Wash does a decent job of cleaning without stripping off the waterproofing. It even extends the effectiveness. About every 4 washes I use the Nikwax TX Wash in to re proof. All done in the washing machine.

Being a smoker I find them very convenient. I've lost count of the number of foam covers on my Boom Mic that I have melted mind

I have long forgotten what it felt like to ride a high pass for the first time. I was trawling through some footage a friend and his wife took when they were here in the summer and particularly their first trip up a high mountain, in this case The Großglockner. Their comments made me chuckle. Unfortunately I don't have any fancy software to clean up the Audio but you can make it out. ">

Just reviewing some footage a Guest took when I took them up to Bikers Point on The Großglockner. Amongst the many amusing comments I heard him make was "This road is inhuman!".

Had a guest in this week using Nanotips on his gloves to use his Touch Screen Phone as a Sat Nav in a waterproof mount. Worked faultlessly and he swears by the stuff. We'll impressed with the demo. http://www.nanotips.com/products/

Tiny cars. "> Road legal out here. Not much room for shopping mind

vignette required for Austrian, Swiss and Slovenian motorways. Available at most petrol stations. If you don't use the motor ways you don't need one. Just don't get caught on a motorway without one. In Austria it is a 120 Euro fine. Other Tolls will be paid for at the time.

If your Bike is UK registered it should display a GB Sticker or similar. Headlights correctly adjusted for mainland Europe so should not be an issue.

Here you go https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit? ... 2oDNPXQ1BQ Vignette required to ride on Austrian and Swiss motor ways. Austria costs €4,80 for 10 days. there are a couple of toll tunnels on some motorways. Switzerland requires a years one. Certainly in Austria it is worth getting one just in case. the fine is €120,- if you get caught on the motorway without one. French and Italian motorways are mostly tolls. Any help feel free to ask

have a look here http://www.pensionhausmaria.com/location.asp Scroll down to.just below the Google map and there is a widget that should provide most of the information you need. Just click on the areas you are going to. I'll look for the link to my Austrian High Lights map to give you some suggestions. If you want anything specific drop me a PM.

I've had a few pairs over the last few years. Black Draggin Jeans / Cargo Style. Colour holds up well but they look shite on me. Snow style camo "Bullet Proof" Cargo Style. My favourites but do fade quickly. Woodland style "Bullet Proof" Cargo Style. Colour has held up really well and probably the best value I've had. I did test a pair of these in anger and although the outer shredded well, the Kevlar held up where it should. It doesn't stop some nasty friction burns though which have left scars. .

A common complaint from GS owners is the uncomfortable seat. Have a look on the GS Forums for solutions from owners. For long distance riding seamless underwear is important. Many advocate an under suit to aid comfort whether it is hot or cold.

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Took a group down to Croatia a couple of weeks ago and had a few hours here. Unfortunately tempting roads delayed our arrival and we didn't have time to do The Veliki Slap Waterfall (3.5 hours minimum from Car Park 2) but will make time next visit. Park at Car Park 1 to be nearer. ">

There's a whole country between Annecy and Austria (Switzerland) South from Annecy you can take Route Napoleon all the way to the Med

When asking for recommendations about products that people have, be mindful that it is human nature to extol the virtues of what they have against something they don't have. Can we assume the comparisons you are watching on YouTube are those shot side by side in the same conditions at similar settings preferably with no post production modification and on the same video. "> . If you are comparing different videos, uploaded at different times you have no idea what post production has been done, how much conditions at the time have affected the footage or if they have been rendered at a similar quality. YouTube compresses video uploaded in any case and what may look OK on the actual rendered video on your computer can look poor on YouTube. Also bear in mind that many of the good videos on YouTube have gone through Post Production to some extent so it depends on what Hardware and Software you have as to what you can do. GoPro now tend to release a new or upgraded model every October. The problem in doing that is people face the dilemma of do I buy now or wait? The 3+ Black is an awesome piece of kit and does far more than most users will ever exploit. A new model will obviously have improvements. Something like further improvements in battery life would be a bonus to everyone as would some form of image stabilisation if it happens. A likely improvement would be the ability to use 4K at something like 24 - 30fps as the current 4K rate on the 3+ is next to useless. However, this would only be a benefit to serious film makers with the hardware and software to deal with it. Your main consideration should be how much the price of a 3+ will drop when and if a new model comes along in about 6 months time and can you live with that? Like most Tech, improvements are made all the time and if you wait you will never buy anything. I have used GoPros (2, 3 & 3+) and Drifts (HD170s and HDs) for a few years. Although I don't own a Ghost I have edited footage from them on several occasions and when the footage has been taken at the same time as GoPro footage I had taken. The cameras were recording on similar settings but the GoPro footage was head and shoulders above that of the Drift to such an extent it would have required too much work in post production to make the Drift footage look as good so I didn't use it although it made a good movie in its own right. I think you have to first decide on what you want the camera for. If it is just to record your journey in the event something happens then there are many options about for a fraction of the money. If you just want to review the footage at a reasonable resolution for your own pleasure then there are still many cheaper options including those in the GoPro and Drift stables such as the GoPro Silver and White and the Drift HD and HD720. Contour also make a good camera although they did cease trading before being revived late in 2013. Will they still be around at the end of 2014, who knows. If you want to try and make really good quality movies, including burning BluRay DVDs then the GoPro 3 or 3+ Black is the way to go. IMHO GoPro is significantly better for the results obtained and the Drift Ghost and Ghost-S sit somewhere in between. Appearance tends to be an important factor to many with GoPros regularly being described as a Brick. If you are looking to get really good results should appearance be the deciding factor? The old Drift HD170s were almost half as long again as their modern counterparts such as the HD and Ghost. You could mount the old 170 on the side of your lid or across the visor hinge area and not get any of your helmet in view. The problem with the new models is that they are shorter and due to the shape of helmets and unless you narrow the Field of View, you end up with a lot of the helmet in shot. It is also impossible on many helmets to mount them on the top without fouling the visor. Some claim GoPro's cause drag or buffeting when mounted on a helmet. I usually have 2 x GoPros mounted on the top of my lid (one forward and one rear facing) and sometimes one mounted on the side. I ride a DL1000, a bike which has its own buffeting issues, but experience no issues to cause me concern. Even the additional weight isn't really noticeable. GoPro now do a black protective case which looks less conspicuous if looks are important. If you can't accept looking like a Telly Tubby then a GoPro is probably not for you but if you can, you can be comforted in the knowledge that you aren't alone. The Ghost has some features that GoPros don't such as Tagging, the ability to record the previous x number of minutes and the next. (Contrary to popular belief the 3+ can do loop recording which really is the same to some extent.) The rotatable lens is also a very good feature aiding camera set up, something GoPro needs additional mounting arms to overcome. Battery life is superior than GoPro. With readily available adapters it is possible to use mounting options from both manufacturers with either make of camera. So what do GoPros have that Drift don't. IMHO there is no comparison to the quality of the internals such as sensor etc and GoPro footage is significantly better than the Drift. The 3+ is actually significantly better than the 3 for sharpness. It also has the ability to use the naked camera outside of any waterproofing if required. It has better recording functions such as ProTune which gives far more scope in Post Production. While being able to record in 4K at a low frame rate isn't much good to most, 2.7K at 30fps is. The remote is far superior than the simple functions of the Drift. Any function of the camera can be operated from it with a clear display, is easily operated on a bike and more importantly, very reliable, unlike the Drift. It can operate many GoPro's which have WiFi, whether they are H2, 3 or 3+ or any mix. Provided you have a smart phone, the free WiFi App negates any need for a screen. This allows you to add a Battery BacPac extending battery life. Weight is an important factor, especially when multiple cameras are mounted on my lid but more importantly I use the GoPro for other activities including attached to a Quadrotor. The weight of the Drift would make this impracticable. Many of the mounting options available were designed for GoPro and then adapted or copied for other makes. A GoPro can use a Drift Shoulder Harness but due to its shape, a Drift can't use a GoPro Chest Harness for example and Drift don't make one for that reason. A consideration when doing activities that require a harness of their own such as Zip Lines, Paragliding etc... There are other biggish names you may consider such as Sony and JVC with built in image stabilisation. Reviews suggest that while the stabilisation is adequate, they are let down so much in other areas that the cons outweigh the pros. The latest to the market, Garmin, has some nice touches but is only really a consideration if you wish to use it in conjunction with other Garmin products. Another consideration if you don't have a camcorder is that you may wish to use your action camera as one. To overcome the stabilisation issues there are products you can mount it on. The Steadicam Smoothee and the new Steadicam Curve were designed for GoPros and do an excellent job for a small outlay in the grand scheme of things. The Curve has now been adapted to accept a Drift. An important factor in deciding what camera to go for is what Hardware and Software do you have or plan to get to deal with it. It is no good recording long files at even a basic 1080p/30fps if all you have is a basic laptop on which to edit it. It will struggle to cope. In fairness GoPros own editing software, GoPro Studio, does a very good job in the first place and can do basic colour adjustments, remove Fisheye fairly successfully, crop, adjust speed etc. I have created BluRay DVDs from files solely edited in it that play in exceptional quality on a large plasma screen. If you are filming resulting in large files you need a very capable computer to handle them. If you aren't then all of these high resolution recording options on a camera are a waste of time. A days filming on a guided ride out can easily import in very high quality files for editing amounting to over 300GB. A good editing program such as Final Cut Pro X can ease the strain by working with Proxy Media of a much lesser quality but apply any edits to the HQ video when it comes to rendering.Something like FCPX also allows you to do so much more when it comes to Post Production. Like anything popular, there also tends to be many 3rd party products that come along for it. A company called Crumplepop do a couple of good editing Apps designed purely to work in FCPX for GoPro. One called HDR for GoPro transforms the footage by just applying it, needing no further Post Production effort by the average user. You don't have to wait for rendering to see the differences either which saves hours at the computer. The effect is even more stunning on footage taken in ProTune. Their Fisheye Remover is also far superior than that in GoPro Studio. OK, I have waffled on a fair bit so in summary: If you want to take really high quality footage then at the moment the GoPro 3+ is the best out there. Just look at how many professional bodies such as TV companies use them. If you want to take good acceptable quality footage then you need to compare function over form as to which you prefer. They all have their pros and cons and really you should be considering something a bit lower down the scale such as the Drift HD or GoPro white and Silver models and save unnecessary expense. In this instance you won't go wrong with GoPro or Drift. Hope that helps

Common problem I see when riding in the mountains is vehicles, 2 and 4 wheeled, getting it wrong on a hair pin bend and running wide in the face of oncoming traffic. This one is a bit extreme but it can easily happen. ">

'tis a very good web site. I've written up quite a few routes out here on it Also worth a look www.alpineroads.com & http://www.motoroutes.net

You get what you pay for. If it is just for small players then you can get away with most cameras but if you want to play back on a large screen or even create good quality BluRay DVDs then you will notice the difference. I use the GoPro sticky mounts in conditions from -20C to +40C and have never had one let go or even come loose. I often have 2 GoPros mounted on my lid and accept that I look like a twat. The beauty out here in the summer is that every other bike you see also has them so I am not alone I was a Drift fan but now the camera is much shorter I find if you mount it on the side of the lid it gets too much of the lid and even your face in shot on wide angle. The old HD 170s and Stealth were perfect but lacked the quality.

I am no expert and this is not intended as the be all and end all. I am not even looking to debate any of the information. It may be useful to some just take from it what you will For those that haven't ridden or driven abroad before (or even for those that have but in ignorance ) here is a link to some useful information. Road Safety Overseas http://www.pensionhausmaria.com/location.asp Scroll down to just below the Google Map. Click on the area nearest where you are going, keep clicking in most cases and areas expand. You will get links to various information & advice. Not wanting to teach anyone to suck eggs but some may find this useful. I wrote it some years ago for groups I used to take to Europe but most is still valid. Clueless Touring Tips 1. Make sure your Passports are valid for the period you will be travelling !!! 2. Make sure you have a European Health Insurance Card which replaces the E111. Get one here; http://www.nhs.uk/nhsengland/healthcare ... -ehic.aspx It is also worth reading about your entitlements in each country and what you have to do 3. You will need to be in possession of your Driving Licence, Insurance and Registration Document (not copies). 4. Arrange Travel Insurance to cover cancellations, possessions and medical bills. Make sure motorcycling is an approved activity. Cover for repatriation is important. 5. Check your Insurance covers you for riding in all countries we will be travelling through. Do you need to notify them of the dates you are travelling abroad? Do you need a Green Card? 6. Arrange European Breakdown Cover. Repatriation of your bike is important. 7. Make sure you have the correct emergency equipment as required by law in the countries we are travelling in. A reflective vest in the event of motorway breakdown for each person, a First Aid kit and a spare bulb kit are all that is usually needed. The French no longer require 2 x Breath Test Kits - It is still law but officially not acted upon. 8. Arrange for your motorcycle to be suitably serviced prior to setting off and allow for 4000 + miles to be covered during the Tour. Consider Tyres, Chain & Sprocket life etc... 9. Prepare a small tool kit of basic tools and include cable ties, Gaffer Tape, insulation Tape, fuses etc... just for an emergency. Do you have sufficient Scott Oil if applicable. Carry a small bottle of suitable engine oil. 10. Consider filling your tyres with Ultraseal – It can save no end of grief. (Appreciate there are many who disagree but from personal experience I use it and have never had a puncture I knew about) 11. Save your old T-Shirts, socks and undies, clean of course, to wear during the day while riding and then throw them away. Creates space for the presents to bring home. Seamless underwear is more comfortable when in the saddle all day. 12. Save small plastic bottles with tight lids. These are useful to decant shampoo, shower gel etc in to save room and weight. 13. Places like Superdrug and Boots often have small travel packs of washing powder etc on offer like BOGOF. 14. We will experience extremes of temperatures on the Tour. Pack accordingly. Many thin layers are more effective than bulky items. If you have separate waterproofs, pack them so that they are easy to get at. A spare pair of Gloves is useful in case of getting wet through. 15. Save up all those little packets of silicon that you find in all sorts of purchases. They are very handy to place in boots and gloves overnight to assist with drying them out. 16. Are your panniers ect waterproof. Pack items in bin liners. 17. Roll items up when packing to avoid creasing. Share groups of items between panniers / bags in case of an accident so that not all of one thing is ruined. 18. Pack for the travelling days so that you only have to access one pannier, box or bag. 19. Photocopy all documents including drivers licence, insurance, breakdown insurance, travel insurance, EHIC Card, passports, Ferry tickets, booking details and pack them elsewhere than the originals or carry the copies on a USB Stick or Flash Card. 20. Carry a debit & credit card or two of one or the other just in case. Make sure you know the Pin Numbers. 21. Carry a full spare set of keys for your house, motorcycle, luggage and any locks you may be using and store them safely. (Do not lock them in a pannier or top box or under the seat). 22. Carry a spare visor. (The sun can be blinding at times but you can also be in cloud with nil visibility and a dark visor wont help). Wearing sunglasses under your lid can be fraught as mountain tunnels tend to be very dark and often not straight. 23. Dress code is as comfortable as you feel. I just don’t want to see any of the blokes wearing them. 24. Don’t forget some swimwear if you want to take advantage of the pools, sauna, Jacuzzi, sunbathe etc. 25. Carry some Euros. We will almost certainly have to pay some Tolls so make sure you can carry Euros which are easy to get at when at a Toll Booth. 26. If you are taking electrical items such as Mobile Phones, MP3 players, don’t forget the chargers for them and get an adapter for Northern Europe Plug Sockets. 27. If you are on medication of any description, ensure you have a sufficient supply for the duration of the Tour. If necessary gets a covering letter from your GP stating that the medication is prescribed to you. 28. Suggested Non Prescription Medication – Sea Sickness tablets, Paracetamol or Aspirin & Ibuprofen & Diarrhoea Treatment. Hand Wipes, Sun cream and after sun, Chap Stick or Lip seal, Hand cream, Plasters, Insect repellent, Antihistamine or Insect Bite relief treatment, tissues, and any other personal toiletries you may need. In Europe many simple medications such as Paracetamol are only available at proper pharmacies. Be aware that certainly in Austria, Aspirin is only available on prescription. 29. If you wear glasses for riding, some countries require you to carry a spare pair. (Not the be all and end all and not intended to be. It is also not advocating packing the kitchen sink ) Very good weather sites. The first is Norwegian used by the local tourist offices out here for skiing information and up to 48 hours ahead is usually very accurate. http://www.yr.no/place/Austria/Styria/G ... _hour.html http://www.xcweather.co.uk/forecast/ramsau_am_dachstein These are very useful for Traffic and Road & Pass information. Open them in Google Chrome and they translate quite well. http://www.alpen-journal.de/alpenservic ... aesse.html http://www.oeamtc.at/?id=2500,,,1934 http://www.oeamtc.at/?id=2500,,,10280 http://www.adac.de http://alpen-paesse.ch Toll requirements http://www.tolltickets.com/country/euro ... lang=en-GB Trip Planning http://www.bestbikingroads.com http://www.alpineroads.com http://www.alpen-journal.de/alpenservic ... aesse.html http://www.alpentourer.com/motorbike_touring/ If anyone wants any help with routes, accommodation etc, regardless if we are one of your destinations, just drop me a line. If anyone does get out this way first beer is always on us

Many people love Comosee or Lake Como. I am a bit spoilt in that I live out this way and although there is some stunning scenery I find the roads around Lake Como to busy for my liking. Go a bit further and base yourself near Arabba, in The Dolomites. Take a day trip down to Lake Garda but more importantly, discover the great biking roads and scenery in that area. Have a look at www.bestbikingroads.com and www.alpineroads.com for ides for routes. Better still, come over our way and do The Großglockner and Nockalmstraße to name a couple. www.pensionhausmaria.com - see our YouTube Channel Link for videos of ride outs in the area.

Such nice mountains... here in essex the highest is like 10metres... so jelous of that , hope to do it one time though We are quite lucky here. Our house is actually at an altitude about 50m higher than Mount Snowdon and only about the same below the height of Ben Nevis.