GazW

Kawasaki GPZ500S 1987-1994 (A) 1994-2009 (D) Power: 59BHP Torque: 30 F/lb Model reviewed; 1996 model with 25k on the clocks. Having read a few reviews on mid range bikes and deliberating for a while on what to purchase after I passed my DAS, I finally settled on a GPZ. The factors I had to base my decision on were insurance, mpg, availability of spares, reliablity, fun factor and last but by no means least and day to day useability. The GPZ ticked all of the boxes, and having viewed a local bike, (sorry if you read this) with no intention of buying, just to have a sit on and get a feel for the dimensions. I had my heart set on it. The bike I viewed was a 1987 A1, I'll get to this later on... So, I purchased my bike off E-bay for £675, with the promise of 12 months MOT. Took the risk in insuring it before I saw it, so I could tax it and ride it back from Carlisle to Bolton. Got a lift up to Carlisle, the bike was as described, quick once over, and let the bike tick over till the temp needle started to climb to make sure the fan kicked in, happy days and off we go. About a mile or so down the road the first thing to strike me was the riding position. Don't be fooled by the fairing and clip on handlebars, its very much 'sit up and beg' and the 110 mile motorway trip back was suprisingly comfortable. One niggle is the screen directs wind straight into your neck (I'm 6'1) nothing a quick stop at the services to put ear-plugs in didn't cure. Mostly 70mph on the way back, again not really to many complaints, the bike was happy enough and didn't miss a beat, the ratio between the top gears feels like it could be a bit wider, purely for MPG, 70mph in 6th equates to around 6k. Whilest on the subject of RPM, I shall get down to the performance. The engine is lumpy by nature, sounds like a bag of nails on idle, even when warm. Below 3k its not brilliant, its quite sluggish on throttle response and a little rattly. It gets much smoother above 4,000 until it hits 6,500 then it comes to life, and with the lazy chug of the parallel twin transforming into a wail, it hurtles towards its 11k redline. Kawasaki claim 0-60 in 3.7 seconds and I believe them. Heres where it gets a little fuzzy, I have read contrasting reports of the power peaking at 9,500, some claiming to be 10,200. Whatever it is its 'powerband' is almost two strokeish, not quite as Jekyll and Hyde as previous strokers I have ridden (dads 350LC (covered third party on my insurance) + my uncles KTM250EXC) but its along those lines. Its really satisfying to drop a gear to get the revs up and stay on that powerband for overtaking. Handling is good by my standards, although I don't have much of a yardstick to compare to, and without a doubt most modern 600's would make it seem outright ancient. It seems very forgiving, in the 1.500 miles I have done since purchasing I have not had a heart in mouth moment, nor have I had to change any pants. The brakes. Not brilliant, wouldn't have complete trust in an emergency stop. I have practised anchouring on on quiet roads, and it stops. Eventually. Day to day riding its not bad as you ride within the limits of the bike and know when to brake for corners. I have read Greenstuff pads and braided hoses make a difference and this is one of my planned ongoing mods so I'll report back as soon as I change them. Build quality. Again, not brilliant. Its kept garaged and I plan to strip and paint the swinging arm and centerstand, these aren't dire, but need doing. The exhaust system is original, I make that 15 years old and its showing its age. One silencer has just cracked, and needs welding. I plan to change this for a stainless system, I will be keeping it 2 into 2 as opposed to the 2-1 that are quite common for people to have carried out. Relating to the earlier comment on the pre '94 models, the alternator magnets have a nasty habit of 'letting go' when they do they can take the stator plates with them, worst case scenario shards of magnet can pass into the sump. The pre '94 models also have 16" wheels as opposed to 17" which makes tyre selection limited. You can still get bridgestone B45's which are highly recommended. Also they have a drum on the rear. The radiator fan is about as much use as an asthmatic mouse, the temperature rises with urban stop-start riding. I have not seen it get dangerously high, although I would pull over and let it cool rather than risk it should the situation ever arise. Post 2002 models come with twin disks up front, these are probably the most 'desirable' (use the term loosely) To summerise, if you have ridden anything larger, more modern or better equipped then I doubt it would get your pulse racing. This also applies to the looks, hardly awe inspiring.. If you judge it on what it is, an entry level parallel twin, and compare it against its rivals the GS and CB, I would choose the kwak hands down, given my budget again its the only bike I would be looking for at this moment in time. As a first bike this side of the 600cc mark I couldn't recommend it more. I'm over the moon with my choice, and even if it were to suffer major mechanical failure tomorrow, I would still look back with fond memories of my first 'proper' bike.

I only have an arc welder and my skills are limited to say the least plus the rods have been in the garage for months. I might just bite the stainless exhaust system bullet. Want to keep 2-2 though, deffo wanna avoid 2-1.

I'll try. This is as the exhaust sits on its own If I pivot it on its mounting.

GPZ500s, you reckon I would be better going to a metal workshop instead of a garage?

So all is not as good as it seems. My exhaust is split at the clamp, behind the gasket. A local garage has quoted me £50 to weld it up.. I have seen a pair of stainless silencers for £240 Couple of questions. Would you pay for the repair and hope for the best? Or buy the stainless cans? Would I have to buy stainless downpipes or will the cans slip on the steel originals (in pretty decent condition)? Would I have to have the carbs rejetted/balanced? The advert for the cans claims that they will not require any carb adjustment, but is that true? See pics for an idea of severity

Local beauty spot

Anyone owned one? I know they are quite established in the motocross world. I have seen a really nice one at the right price, like the style and the fit is good too. Does anyone know how much give is in the padding when its 'broken' in. I have an odd shaped head and its rare to find such a nice fitting lid that isn't an Arai, Shoei ect. Nice to have some feedback before I part with my hard earned though

Tested the battery with a multimeter, engine around 6k 14.5v so went to a breakers second hand relay, problem sorted

Having just purchased a GPZ500 I have noticed a problem with the indicators. Idling and normal speeds (below 5.5k revs) they work fine, then above 6k they flash like there is a bulb out. Would this be a symptom of the regulator/rectifier? If the indicator relay was knackered then surely they would just not work at all? Any help would be much appreciated

Is there anything you should do? Other than checking everything is tight, I mean should you take it 'easy' for a few miles?

The only way you would stop speeding across the board would be the 'black box' method that some insurance companies offer reduced premiums for. Basically a tracker with g-force meter in it. The principles of it are questionable. Infringement on human rights maybe? It would work if you crept over 30 and had a letter drop through your letterbox the next week with 3 points and a £60 fine.

Halogen bulb available from halfords. Made the world of difference on my bike. Disk brake conversion would entail finding a bike thats been written off from beihind and buying the whole front end then replacing the current one with that along with the steering head bearings. Only other option would be to source a right leg stanchion, front wheel, caliper, mmaster cylinder, hoses and put it all together. I'm not sure if the forks are spaced the same drum to disk so no guarantee that would work..

Well considering that a starter for the cg is £370 including vat (deadly serious) I may take my chances with a £20 battery and hope that cures it! Thanks for the quick response

Well I had a voltmeter on it this morning. 12.5v with the ignition off, when switched on the battery started falling to 12ish, then tried to start it, dropped to 6v. Bumped it and checked the battery and it was 14.09 does that mean the battery is knackered?

So the CG wouldn't start on the button this morning at the girlfriends house, I managed to bump it and it ran fine. On the way back to mine, I switched the bike off at a set of lights (nothing behind me, it was around 6am) and the bike started on the button fine. Rode back to mine, couple of hours later... Same problem, wouldn't start. The starter motor was turning the engine over... Just. Not enough to start the bike though. Had to bump it to get to work. Then just had to bump it to get home from work, when I arrived back at mine I killed the engine and then it started on the button twice... I have just connected it up to the battery charger, and it was barely lighting the second red light (oxford charger, two red lights, one amber and one green) after being on charge for 30 or so minutes it has risen to green. Would I be right in thinking the alternator is charging the bike and the battery is losing its charge, due to the fact it will start after immediately after being run. I know I could do with a multimeter test when the bikes running to check the voltage but my dad is on holiday and his van is locked up at his place of work, so I can't get to that. Any help much appreciated! The bike is run every day without fail

^ As above, Sundays, all day. Straight down the A6 through Little Hulton and Westhoughton, then past the Reebok Stadium, left at the beehive pub through Horwich, then turn right into Rivington just past the Crown roundabout, when you come to the 'little barn' on your left hand side take that immediate right.

Above pretty much says it all.. I was taught to only crawl forward if behind a van or 4x4 with limited visibility, otherwise you should be pulling out from behind the car when its clear in one motion from parked at side of kerb

I am now the (extremely) proud owner of a full bike license.. One minor, when he asked me to pull up at the side of the road then set off again I did my mirror, lifesaver, indicate, mirror, lifesaver... Only left the bike in neutral. Aside from that a perfect ride... Anyone wanna buy a CG?

Haha! Fortunate enough that I did. Me and my mate were in the pub the other day and he tried to argue that it counted as a fail, so congratulated me on passing third time round..... I took the 'can't fail what didn't exist' route, whereas he approached from the 'you've turned up with the intention of passing your test three times and only rode away having passed it once' angle. Interested to see you prove me right. Yeah, borrowed my stepdad's Suomi lid for the test and have sourced a replacement bracket from my local Shoei dealer. So my lid should be alreet for Mod2

Second time round, no minors, pointed out to me by the examiner that I went through the speed trap for the controlled stop excessively (64kph) When we were in the room afterwards the examiner also pointed out that I completed the widest figure of 8 that he had ever seen. Instructor told me to take as much room as possible to make it as easy as possible. So no complaints. Mod2 on monday

Failed. The bike was sat in the test centre for around an hour before I started.. Never stalled before or after I got in the test area.. Knew I should have put the choke on to get the bike ticking over around 1k instead of 500rpm. Got in the test area. Did the manual handling, stalled on the slalom! Rode everything else perfect. Not one minor mark. Speed of 53 on swerve and 56 on controlled stop. Most frustrating thing was I was worried about locking the back wheel in the wet on the controlled stop. I had no problems with the slalom/figure 8 in training. If anything it was probably my strongest area. Bloody gutted. Test rebooked but not for four weeks tomorrow! Ahh well. Heres to second time lucky!!

Cheers. I know this is a horrible thing to say, but it was a shared day with another fella who had done the full package. CBT, theory, mod1 + 2 for like 700 quid. It was his first time on a bike on the road on Wednesday and the fact he was struggling kinda took the pressure off me slightly. Would have hated it to be yhe other way round!

Had mod1 training today. Not feeling too bad about the test. Couple of things worrying me, one being the rain. It was a tough decision today practising the swerve with horrible visibility with the visor down (hyperoptic insert, it was just rain droplets as opposed to mist) or horrible visibility due to having the visor up and being smashed in the face with rain.. Also for some reason I kept forgetting the lifesaver on the slow riding only!!? Was fine on the practise on the car park, it was the mock test at the actual test centre that got me. Then end of the session that horrible arkwardness of stepping off a 500 and back on the CG and it feeling like a pushbike, gutless and all the controls just feeling wrong. Got on really well with the instructor and the GS500. Didn't find the riding position uncomfortable and I'm 6'1' All in all a good day and fingers crossed for tomorrow

Update on the situation, I tried setting the plug gap, even went and bought a new plug to be sure, all to no avail. So I bit the bullet, bought the carb, fitted it and it has made the world of difference! The bike pulls a million times better, it just has a bit of a hole in the middle of the rev range, so I may lift the needle a notch, and go up one size on the pilot jet, (although it idles Ok) and two sizes on the main. Fingers crossed I can get it running even better

Should have mentioned, its running on a new plug. I bought one before I swapped the engine, I suppose I could swap the spark plug cap and see what happens. I'll try that before I try the carb. Would an iridium plug be benificial on a 125 single?