GazW

If your garage floor is level enough to loose lay those rubber tiles on top I'd do that to be fair, the only reason for DPM is the screed can break up in a high moisture content and adhesives are water based, so when laying a floor covering over a wet floor the adhesive emulsifies and the tiles/vinyl will come up.. Screed isn't that hard to work with, a decent trowel to spread it out, then one of these http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/f/FDDAIRR/ Removes trowel marks

Also the self levelling compound is a term thrown around a lot, it doesn't actually do the job it's self, If you were to throw it in a trough with a 45 degree angled base it would find its own level. On a large flat surface you have to work it with a trowel, where are you based? You can use diluted PVA as a primer if your floor isn't horrifically dusty. I would be inclined to test it first by scuffing your floor over a patch a few times and see of you can break through it..

It depends on how 'rough' your floor is. You can get away with a fall from one side to another, the flow of screed isn't that extreme, that it will shift to one side. You can also knock any peaks off with a hammer and bolster. The DPM isn't essential, just when we were laying £5000 worth of Amtico that's guaranteed we couldn't take risks, as the company would have to take the fall finacially to replace it. you may get away with it, may not. The primer would be though, it will break up for sure. Been to so many jobs where a joiner or builder undertook a job he knew nothing about and we got called in to do a proper job.

For once!!! I used to be a floorlayer. Assuming your concrete block isn't damp proofed (false economy on a garage floor) you couldn't screed (self levelling compound) as it would break up due to the moisture content in the block. I see three options. Buy a primer, preferably the same make as the screed you buy, (don't B & Q it, find a flooring suppliers near you, it will be cheaper) then mix the primer as recommended on the bottle, use this to seal the dusty floor, and achieve a key for the next process. Then buy a two part epoxy DPM that you spread on the floor with a trowel, then use a paint roller to ensure uniform coverage. Prime this surface using neat primer and screed over the top, laybond screed master 2 should be suitable to use, but ask the supplier, latex screed dries harder than water based. There is a product out there that is a screed and DPM in one, its not cheap, about £80 per 4.5m2 assuming no excessive undulations in the floor. This would still need priming, otherwise the screed will bond to the dusty surface and not the floor as a whole and break up. Paint the floor. Cheaper by far. If you attempt to screed without priming or DPMing and your opening a can of worms. I used primer, DPM and screed for my grandads garage floor over 2 years ago and it's still going strong. If you want a perfect job, buy a drill and whisk to ensure a perfect mix, and a spiked roller to remove trowel marks from your screed as you lay it

Drum or disc brakes? Is your wheel correctly aligned? Don't rely on the adjusters http://www.ex-500.com/index.php/topic,148.0.html Have you checked your wheel bearings? Did you adjust your chain at the tightest point? If you suspect binding brakes and its a drum you should be able to back off the adjustment on the solid arm linking your pedal to the drum. If its a caliper you'll need a seal set and you'll have to strip and rebuild.

Spoked wheels aren't balanced? At least I never had it done when I paid a garage to put new tyres on my CG. Never had any issues

Accidentially wheelied when I rode my dads KTM 950 and gave it a handful, that thing will lift off the throttle in 1st 2cnd and 3rd. Peg down was on my CG when I went round a rather tight roundabout just outside the local police station, it picked the back end up and moved it about 6 inches, god only knows how I stayed on. Back end sliding used to happen on my current bike when it was first purchased and had a square bt45 on the back, happened all the time in the wet. I left the ground several times on a bike, once on the GPZ on a ride out with a few people from here on a hump back bridge with a severe drop off. When I was younger I had a XR75, I used to go riding with my uncle who competed in trials, he pointed me to a rather large hill and said go up that, but back off when your near the top. Being young I flew up the whole thing, probably jumped about 5ft in the air off the top of the thing and landed slap bang in the middle of what can only be described as a shallow pond. Didn't like water that bike, died instantly and had to be pushed back to the pick up.

Either that or a fuse. I would probably be inclined to check the wires on your ignition, if it's 5 wire I would replace the whole barrel off of a Japanese 125. A multimeter would enable you to work out what wire is for what.

If you change your chain, you need to change your sprockets at the same time. It will cost more, but the £12 for a new chain is a false economy as your already worn sprockets will accelerate wear on the new chain.

Take your wheels off, the top part of the brake shoe should be chamfered on the first contact surface according to the direction of rotation. As your brakes wear, they get worn down to the level of the chamfer rendering it useless. So either get some rough sand paper and take the top edge off. Or buy some new shoes

Forgive the horrific drawing, might be easier to see what I mean, the correct order is CBA

Its worked.. I've never seen anything like it before.. I took the other one apart and looked at the order. It screws into the ht lead, I imagine the screw turns into a plate inside the cap, then the charge must pass through the spring, into the capacitor which touches the brass, that touches the brass which obviously connects to the plug..

The brass contact is threaded, it can be screwed back in.. Or is that irrelevant?

Pulled this off yesterday. The brass screw in thing that goes in the cap stayed on top of the plug itself and a capacitor and spring fell out the cap, anyone know which way round they go back?

Riding Took bike to a garage, he said he would get it through MOT for £150, £30 later, a set of missing brake pads via eBay seller, a packed out Cush drive, new wheel bearings and a tightened headstock and it's being MOT'd today. Not had it on the road since 22cnd august.. Feels like I have lost a leg.

I had a CG. Undo your throttle linkage, look at the circlip on the needle, drop the needle to run leaner, raise it to run richer. Write down all your settings before you start so you have a benchmark. Clean all your jets. I would drop the needle to make the bike leaner, then play with the mixture screw.

There's your problem Any problems you have with your bike after a strip down can be easily cured by keep riding and rev the nuts off it Also hammers! Varying degrees of size and weight. Save the sledgehammer till you've completely lost your patience

Well, I have my 3rd interview on Thursday, then I find out dates for Scotland, after that (fingers crossed) I'll know basic training dates, so I should know one way or another within a few weeks..

Have you a cap on attendees? Gutted I have missed the last two.. I'm not sure if I'll be in basic training or not here... I'll probably know a lot more about dates in the next few weeks, so I may be willing to pay then. If not I'm all over 2014 haha

Even if it's cack, what you got to lose? I've paid £50 to have a 13 year old silencer welded up..

It's never the end of the world either pal, I bought an engine off eBay for a cg125 swapped it over and sold the broken one as spares & repairs for £50.

Right so I noticed this yesterday, I'm 99% sure it's come on out of nowhere as I would have noticed it developing I think. It seems localised to the right hand side of the cylinder head, can only be heard when blipping the throttle, on over run when engine braking and at constant low revs. It's not audible at idle, or acceleration. It's like a tappety sound, I obviously am thinking tappets, but can they just slip? Would it just be localised to one side of the head?

Put the bike on it's centre stand, put two planks of wood under it if the rear wheel touches the floor as you'll need it clear, follow the clutch cable to an arm on the top of the engine casing, put it in first and using the rubber base of a hammer handle push that arm away from the clutch cable, if it bites and the rear wheel spins then your clutch cable is f**ked. If not then it's probably inside, eliminate the simplest options first..

Rattling noise isnt very specific, can you video it, put it on YouTube and post the link here?

I don't mind having a blast out with you one day pal, I'm located in Bolton so could arrange a meeting point and head up to devils bridge. You never know if we put it in the rideout section people may be interested and get a few people out..