only in the case of water as it doesnt burn well .not unless you literally filled the whole cylinder when it was at the bottom of the stroke and even then i think the bang would be a bigger problem. fuel would still eventually slip past especially on a older used engine.

again depends on how long its been doing it or have they been oputting in an additive/cleaner? 

sutty or blackness is unburnt hydrocarbons from the combustion cycle. if you put petrol into oil it wets/thins it out - not goes black on its own.

i would still check the spark plug as that can give clues.

they need to make some money out of it after all their doing you a service -and everyone takes a cut of distributions, storage, delivery....sounds about right for cost so your not being ripped off thats just the cost of it, you could just get a different set of tyres like an older generation of the same to get something cheaper -what tyres are they?

there are some terrible sellers on line.

looking at it another way they wouldnt know what or where you got those tyres from and there storage conditions so if there was any fault it would be easy to blame the fitter and they have to sign their name to it...

you could save a few quid over the years of buying the equipment to do it (simple hand operating ones) but that means buying it and storing it in the first place.

if you get to know the guys and be a "easy going regular" they might more often lower the cost or throw in some other nices that others would charge, sometimes it pays off to keep it local woth an independent.

2 hours ago, Ian Frog said:

 

missed it

15 hours ago, Old-codger said:

With a disc cutter slice a bit off the correct size allen key that will drop in the allen bolt then just tighten said allen key with a open ended spanner.

Or am I reading it all wrong.

good idea but if you dont have a cutter or hate the idea of chopping a good set up..

bought this hex set from halfords about a year for so ago, under £20, used it for loads of parts on the suzuki and cbf.

or a light misting, heavy coat or flooded of oil? some filters are oil coated...

well if it smelling of petrol (too much fuel going somewhere) then giving more will make it worse..

if it was a carb bike and fell over for a duration then some fuel could end up everywhere and somewhere its not wanted but with an injection (euro 5) very unlikely. 

so need to work out is it getting too much and being flooded (stalling) and strong smell of petrol or is it leaking from a pipe/valve? or is it blocked somewhere (had the tank been moved?) and running lean?

this is a keeway much like a lexmotos/ another cheap chinese bike so many possibilities are likely.

the leak? if the outside surface of the piston is to worn (from being polished to remove imperfections) or scarred from bodging, pressure might be affected so at the mo if the MC doesnt give you the results your expectating then new pistons might be a good idea.

15 hours ago, veracocha said:

About 10 days ago a Range Rover sport driver was acting the big bollox and weaving through traffic at speed in a 30. He forced me to the side in his impatient attempt to beat the lights. I had it on my dashcam so I decided to upload it to the West Mids Police scheme and thought noting of it. I got a call from an Officer today who viewed the footage and confirmed the "nob" has now been sent a NIP for both going through two sets of red lights and having an illegal number plate. They then backed it up with an email saying he will have three points and £200 fine. Karma eh!

only £200? barely a tank of fuel worth or a single cheap chinese tyre for the wasteful box so dont think theyll be particularly bothered, should of been quadruple that and the same for the points!

16-19ltrs depending on specific bike.

bikes can be very fugal with if ridden lightly in the right circumstance's though 6 ltrs used for 40miles is 30mpg so you mustn't be pottering about? 

From the sounds of it (the car you choose have left options for it as a start) sorry jokes aside.

My auntie never had kids (with intentions of not wanting to) that didn't seem to bother her even when her friend that had them but her partner had two from a previous relationship.

We have a single daughter, late twenties for her and early thirties for me. its not easy and having early/later isn't always a benefit to everyone as it always kicks some can down the road in some way but if mentally strong and willing to put your own effort into it and selfish wants aside into bringing up a mini you then nobody can judge you.

wife is from a big family and most of her siblings popped loads out really early (for the right reasons is very questionable and if they're unlikable kids is less so), so we're were later than some of that generation but really the decision is for both of you!

up our early forties now, she wasn't planned to a time but if it happened great if not oh well. We're happy to have had her and only the "one". she gets our attention and help whenever she likes it or not, but happy to be her own person without harassment or annoyances of others, makes for an easier, happier time and to be more considerate.

..if you do decide it should be with your SOLE INTENTION AND INTEREST to bring up the child in a way you would like to be treated, teach, respect, only good behaviour is to be encouraged and treated while bad is swiftly, consistently with verying degrees of punishment to the behaviour and reason given.

you'll probably need a flat bar....

is the top raiser bracket bolts /thread straight through? remove the upper bracket and bar, will the allen key pass through to tighten the bolt?

if your really struggling you could change the bolts to hexs...

  if its a lexmoto i wouldnt even look at it, jokes aside.

depends on the bike's condition and miles might it be worth it just for parts if your prepared to go through the hassle of it all and why it wont select gear? could be simple as loose bolts, worn seals, clutch, linkage, selector forks....with little information given your answer will be as vague infortunatly.

Hi , sorry to be the barer of bad news but sounds like your gonna have to some mechanical work to it.

there could be one simple solution but the previous owner screwed up and made a few more or a couple of problems it and and just didn't want to do it...

if fuel is in the oil, fuel is slipping past the seals into cases. so is the carb over filling when stationary or moving or is fuel not being burned well (ignition) getting past the rings (hint at worn) and ending up in the case.

first of all id empty the oil and fill with fresh,

then check the carbs are working correctly? over fueling or syphoning? check the ignition what state is the spark plug? change it doesnt have to be fancy just what is speced for it, then see how it behaves afterwards and let us all know then we can narrow it down.

popular bike with a start up production (theirs always faults in their with them) you get the bottle necks, honda had it with the ATs,early 650, groms, yamaha bb R1 &mts. Kawa H2/sx.

yes its annoying but shite happens but you have years to enjoy it, at least yours didnt end up at the bottom of the sea...back to square one.

a loose battery terminal doesn't have error codes, goes to show poor quality and service from the dealer....

its a lexmoto so the list of possibility is almost endless just to say on a forum, get the dealer you bought it from to collect and fix as its their sale and their problem- thats the rant over with....

not very familiar with that bike but most likely its more electrical based, a sensor fail or error, which one exactly without interrogating the ecu is trial and error.

one thing to see is if you pull the clutch in and move the bike forward or backwards 6-12inchs and try starting again with the clutch pulled in, if not move the bike with the clutch out and try with clutch in to see if you get any joy.

after that it is literally checking every fuse block, connector block and wiring, undo, inspect the pins and reconnect). it might just narrow things down.

My mechanic loves them too, charges less.

the cbf125 had a centre stand and luckily the gsf650s are the first two bikes that has CS for us, brilliant as at least you can use it single handed and more often than not done it even on the second attempt where as a paddock stand 🫨,

been through the stress to try and get it done without someone stabling the bike at the front properly (which is out of the question for me now) which is extra hard when the ground isnt super smooth or level.

ive used the CS for for more than just chain and wheel cleaning, add forks, brakes, electrical and exhaust clean/service as it helps when the bike is higher up and level.

so for me its essential to the point if its not got a CS it aint the right bike for me.

correct. also goes both ways, not good if you overestimate and tighten too much but very bad if you underestimate and their loose.

not a good thing when a supermarket bike store sells a bike with one caliper mount bolts where barely finger tight while the other mount was even less, you could see threads between the mount and inner bolt threads on axle mount bolts (short thread and fat) and not radial (long threaded and thin), the clue was knocking noises was the clue while they released the bike to me STRAIGHT AFTER ITS MOT!double fail and dangerous 

yep im in the torque it to the value group, especially it its not you day job and not very attentive mech.

some on here as quite flippent about it.

i get really quite annoyed by a mofo mech or bodger that didnt use one and its welded (car oil filter anyone) or stripped it.

i have one simple breaker bar (thats been really useful at times, 1/2 for axles & 3/8 (i think) drive torque wrenchs for that covers pretty much other nuts and bolts bar really tiny ones as its bit clunky, depending on bike or other things i could add a 1/4.

depends on a few main things- area your in, what bike, mods, security, your history of any accidents, claims, convictions....

if you try an insurance broker, the bike insurer isnt a bad place to start with other than that it's specialists like adrian flux etc.

must be one of the women doing it, most childish men would have nicked off the lady it to make a "3" legged dude or a D16khead, thats what would happen at a my work place...

come to think of it isnt most the general womens logo just a cross dressing dude/ bad drag? oh hang on it cant be one sided so maybe its a women first then turned DON? with testosterone replacement...

baby sham/cocktail glass and pints- problem is i know of a few women that drinks pints and a couple the other drink too sooooo....

theres the new ones ice lolly/usb cable (men) or tampon (ladies)

and batmans two face cross dresser doing the rounds.....

cartridge forks (what your forks are) require a different method and tools to strip than rwu or damping rods, even just doing the main seals.

if you was just changing the oil then no, but what a intertrim service you still need remove the damping system from the outer bodies to get access- so yes you should/do.

sometimes they are extra secured by lock tight liquid but they can be tough as forces of hinge and flex happen sticking them inplace.

rarely happens m, looks like pre ignition.

if you trust the garages plug, the fuel you used, if you check wiring of the coil, injector, tps sensor and if the timing is ok.

wow havent seen one that bad for a long time. 

first question would be? make and model of plug and did it come from an legitimate seller?