RideWithStyles

5 hours ago, Mickly said:

cunningly fed me a few very welcome refreshing ice cold lagers to help me cool down during my endeavours & now I’m not able to ride

I’m sure she planned it as rather than going out for a razz I’m cooking dinner !

wish wifes/hubands/selfs did that with al the bloody lycra and landy disco muppets around my area.

right.

no side stand? or do you mean centre stand? 

what year is the bike?

so much for Hus dealer knowing about the products they sell and maintain!!!!

sometimes low quantity, top specs (unique) individual parts have draw backs.

if your bike is still under warranty its not your problem as they will have to claim of hus main central, ive heard of foreign regions not accepting claims or trying there luck but its incredibly rare.

if just out of warranty you may be-able to get them to go half or most of the way with the cost? as a gesture of good will.

other than that if you do decide to keep the bike and it keeps leaking it may well be worth check out an independent suspension specialist for more durable seals/parts.

Fleck. tut tut.

depends on the washer, sump, condition and who did it last time so most of the time i just change it every time as i have little time nor agro to do the job twice just because of the washer want to be defiant the first time round.

being pedantic: more metal gets wasted/lost/binnned from brake dust,screws,parts,bolts and bobs off vehicles/loads every year than a washer unless of course your in the very specific position like Tinker says, though i think they should all be reused/recycled when ever possible regardless.

the triumph i had before the oil filter and the sump plug mounted (i think was pointing down?) on the cast sump pointing to the floor shrouded for protection thought they might as well as just used the OF as a one item did both of drain/seal and filter. 

if more vehicles went down the sealed sump route (bmw/mini for example) where oil is sucked out, no wasted metal and less leaks to worry about plus longer service intervals through better oils benefits for everyone apart from the dealership (capped to yearly to keep them interested) and the odd 3rd party chinese supply, as usual the bike world is way behind and very slow even with the great resources of big multiple vehicles sectors at their disposal, bmw, suzuki, arguably kawasaki etc.

Bring back the big tail sections!!!

Save it for another day/weekend when you can?

if its warranty sensitive go up to a thousand miles is ok (unless its first change then its a few hundred miles).

No real harm though just slower, less oil and the heavier particles to probably come out (some more old oil will be still in) and more effort with the plug/filter.

the bike doesnt need to be hot hot or fan kicks in temp, just a hand touch warm on the sump or lower cases is more than enough. 

but then you really need to start the bike up to flow the oil around and check the level after filling up anyway. 

also theoretically the torque settings (if you decide to use them?) might differ but thats getting picky.

Father in law selling a job lot of used Hynes manuals cheap.

PM if interested.

their position sounds very clear and doesnt favour you going anywhere further, dump you there and thats that, no place in the lads group for you.

all youve done is look out for yourself as an individual, progress in career and hopefully better contract? nothing wrong with that and maybe as mentioned before- push a blinder of better pay etc or face the possibility you can go somewhere else and even better if its to a "rival", they cant fire you just for looking and talking with new employment as long as its not in works time, especially as they havenot allowed progress.

even if you dont go it keeps them on their toes, sweeten to keep you or potentially leave a hole.

it doesn't surprise me if the rival muppet worker/company did it on purpose as ive heard it done before: test, bait, flush out of the comfort bunker, and change the details when no fall back. maybe im doing them a disservice? . 

you know your current employer view of you and job role you belong too, obviously you don't want to sit in it.

shame you cancelled it but i understand why though...

the kit you have has large croc connectors only, i bought the same about 20+ years ago by the same brand for a car and other things.

you can use pretty much any connector style to the battery you want but youll have to cut and solder the male version connector onto the cable coming from the charger.

and its the worst car you have the look of that triggers/gas lights, like a nissan juke.

Hello  and welcome Sean!

nothing wrong with the choice of bike and you didnt get a chinese bike (even modern ones are terrible) . 

been up and down capacity and technology over years, currently on a late carb bike again (suzuki gsf650s).

dont be down hearted on carbs, when its clean and set up the fuelling will be so smooth and brilliant that only the very best and expensive modern FI systems can match at great cost. the only faff is the  "choke" but you get used to that.

FI have to get around ever tighter emissions bs, if the closed loop circuit design isnt done exemplary which is difficult and leads to jerky throttle when opening at low revs which carbs shouldn't suffer from.

the other thing which the bike might run on E10, but with its age of its rubber components "an advice" would be gentler on rubbers to run it or if your gonna leave it in for long durations with E5, unless youve got a future plan on changing the rubbers that the fuel will be in contact with as a maintenance thing while in your care?

there are a few members on here that are quite electric minded if its really troublesome.

other basics are the ignition barrel, ignition & side stand switch, fuses, relays, battery terminals, electrical points and ground wires.

check over and narrow it down for us all for further help.

pictures would help.

so it it stains from as Stu says or is it wearing spots (boots rubbing) the honda cbr and fireblades had it with earlish generations with thin suspectablw paint/lacquer.

you can polish it right back past the blemishes and repaint/lacquer but its quite a delicate, time and material consuming process. the other is to acid dip it and start again but is a specialist's job.

no pics either...

if they pay me £400 to take it off their hands...lol.

maybe were being cynical and harsh?

some old ones shrink and crack as they loose oils and harden up.

Nice!

some local motorbike schools (tutoring) do them, one near me used to do them while i was there.

just to add:

slightly worn suspension bushes for about 5 years and lack of damping of the shock for one year, 

year 2022 24 thou and 2024 25 thou - ive never seen a mot state these before:

• Rear Brake pad(s) incorrectly mounted (1.1.13 (c)) 
• Handlebar so insecure it is likely to become detached (2.2.1 (b) (ii).

so well maintained?

....

poor tink... heart goes out to you!

we all try to help the less inform with as little help from said little information new member single posters) at times of frustration that is totally lost on those that have no idea that different techs from eras and manufacturers are different.

people that help for free with no benefit to them when asked for help with no or little help but then degrade.

go either use the internets mixed bag of shiterry to filter through or a pay garage in the hope that know something for a fix at a price.

only other piece of info ill say its as you say its a gravity feed or as a more modern term a "vacuum pump" not a electrical pump hence whay you here FOOK all when "priming", hence why phil has only known the noise..that all some have ever known is a electrical pump.

if the diaphragm or pipes are degraded that can have great impact on fuel input.

i leave it as that.

14 hours ago, Davidtav said:

I’m not meaning to be argumentative. And I’m not a chemist. I’m sure your information is correct. But surely there is a massive difference between oil to be used in a suspension set up. And two stroke oil added to fuel.  Personally I can’t imagine that the basic properties of the oil would diminish due to a bit of storage. I agree that the additives might become less effective. Although I reckon that’s unlikely. And I believe the additives are more about clean running and emissions than anything else. 

directly contradicts, question has been asked and its been answered.

suspension is a word used as the additive is held in the oil! not  suspension fluid which is a different matter with different oils and totality different additives which i would have directly implied if we was talking about suspension but we are not. fuel, engine 2strk and 4strk are very different beasts, suspension oils are very different products for different reasons and specs.

i have shared information but will not talk any more onthe matter as opinion is very much masking the issue and will no longer be of benefit.

its a oxford products battery charger connector.

great your learning, thats what makes a difference. good luck.

No alarm or immobilisation fitted to it?

if your assured the true firing electrics are sound then the only other are fuel or safety/sensors that are telling it not to.

maybe the off roaders are different or maybe they change fitment at some point in time or for different regions? many possibilities.