RideWithStyles

Hello. would that be chat with a T rex or a compy?

Yes must agree with those above. The old bikes generally didnt need much in the way of special tools. if uve got room and a bit of money to spend a sonic cleaner does a good job on cleaing bolts and brackets etc that always rust and cant get anymore. carb balancing kit.

Thanks Bender. p.s. Futurerama fan too... All hail the Hynotoad!

This bike is sensitive to chain slackness!! If its too loose it will do these, make sure lighten it up. On its Centre stand it needs 15-25mm on the lower but middle of the chain. check if the crush drives in the rear wheel are ok, they should be tight in place with no sloppiness.

Welcome. just out of curiosity whos info did you choose on youtube?

Yes got to say agree with all above. Its a choice not a majority have done, it has its pleasures and pains but welcome those who passed through those gates.

Some bike shops might beable to point tou in a direction of places to try for meets, some shops run monthly or so meets and rides. Then its just the case of just braving up and asking people there. Never know some neighbours or close locals can surprise.

Weight, size and presence will really jump out and will be noticeable before you start. biting points and area will be narrower, rev starting point will be lower. real bigger difference is throttle use will need less of and power bands to make progress will be lower too.... like sooo much less . Ive had all sizes and the misses still has the 125 which i get to play on now and again... Just do the course, when u pass and even if u think a 600 might be a bit much for now you could just get a fit 400-500 with 45hp which will still be a revelation and wonder why you didnt do it sooner!!!

Ive tried many others. you cant just boil the custom silicone plugs that not how they work. Thouse one you buy with no form to start with and had to boil to mould in the first place and incert to set for some memory for the first time to mould like gum guards for contact sports you can but not for the proper custom versions. If you have small canals (and dry) like i do but want to stick with foam try Howard Leight by Honeywell ones, yellow and plug coloured plugs aare small and soft. They are the best ive found and really cheap for boxes.

Dont start changing the sizes, even if might just fit on the the rim. that will affect how the bike will handle your'll be trying to put a narrower rear tyre, that will change the profile and how much of the tyre will be available to you. Why what suddenly change with the feel?? Have you looked at a different manufacturer that might be a better choice? Michelin etc?

id agree with bianco and bender. depends on guessing it will be a cable to throttle body with a simoke ecu just sorting the timing it sounds like the swap over year like with honda cbf125 that happened later to that model... could be done but really not worth it. Carb housing to the block will be vastly different to a injection model so needing to mess around with mounts, Ecus, wiring, pumps, so much to do with little point of returns even just for boredom. Only positives with early injection systems over carbs was not having to piss about with chokes, rest of the time they are soo crude compared to a carb!

Yes u do plus the dvla if they dont know aswell.

Hi and welcome!

Welcome. yes interesting...now half way between a bike and car in many ways. Be good to have another person about and with a different perspective on things.

Hi Chicken, Welcome. sorry to hear that, hopefully we can change that for you if you so wish?

Hi im new to the forum. long time driver and biker, hopeful to have lots a laughs and to share wisdom with you all.

Agree with bender. I know a few 125s have had a bit of a jump in tech recently but they dont take much to start up with a small single cylinder. Me and the misses laughed so hard when we saw the battery of her 125... not much bigger that a few AA batterys lol. Id be asking myself (or u) in why the battery is sooo dead? Might stop it from happening again, does it have a alarm? Did u leave the heated grips on??? Just to be clear it Wont be the battery that holds the revs pacifically, that will be either the cable's, the sensor, or the ecu if its that high technical of a 125 which ill be surprised about. if its holding the revs id be first looking at the inside throttle cables, are they moving freely, is there a kink? just be careful how u just start the, power pack etc can fry the little ecus or the loom if ur not careful. just for info. is it a lead acid or a lithium battery? Dont recharge a lithium battery with a normal charger, it wont charge it properly and even damage it. if its lithium and its gone below 9 or even 6 volts its goosed so dont bother trying to bring it back... its dead Jim...need to buy a new battery. i know the fad is to have lithium but if your bike never with one from the factory then u need to make sure the charging system onthe bike is designed to cope with one!!

i nearly bought the RE myself, decent bike with much to like but just afew negatives that might turn people off. One thing to make sure ur happy with the service schedule as its much more often and puzzling than other bikes on sale. The Him was just abit too sedate for my needs. on the subject of leathers, they do shrink as they DRY OUT! Think of them as house plants. if they sre just a abit small use small clean lightly with hand soap and water, then use nik wax leather restorer a white and blue bottle, it's amazing stuff works wonders, useit on boots, gloves, even use it on the house chairs. Do it once, leave them somewhere away from heat for a week and top up again with the nikwax, It brings them back.... luckly not from the dead (moo) =:0 if there in good nick but too small even after the leather restoration you could sell them, stuff like that is trendy with the young rebels!

I wouldnt be worried about that count exactly. You always count out from fully closed, most road forks work from fully closed to two turns out, after that its fully open and not controlling anything due to the valve or shims stack. The valve control as its opened or closed is generally not liner too. you'll be needing to keep closing the valve in stages over time to keep it within your requirements as the oil age's anyway until it gets replaced. the only time you'll need that turn back if your forks take 10wt and its ok for it but you suddenly decide to put in 30wt or thicker in for some reason. Without more info...guessing The reason now that fork feels stiffer now at the same turns will be down the the refresh... if the fork oil has been changed did the tech use a different oil? Even if the manual states 10wt and the tech used 10wt id doubt it the same manufacturer of oil, unlike engine oils they are not regulated they make it what they feel to them....so for example a castrol 10wt fork oil could be thinner and feel more like a 5wt than say a motuls 10wt equivalent to comparison.