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ill actually give that a look, as it's started happening again... Happened to my last bike with the same symptoms as yours. I bought a new motor brush for about £7 and soldered it on. A good excuse to clear out all the deposits in the motor too. Make sure you order an O ring for it first though, as they tend to be a bit worse for wear

If it's just the starter, maybe worth just checking the brushes for wear in the starter motor.

I always use EBC pads. Never had a problem with them, last for ages, and they're cheap!

I had an old cb250 once and it never seemed to warm up stationary. I had to ride it on half choke for about a mile before it run right, but thats the only bike I had to do that with.

Just a thought (worked for some reason on an old cb750 when it had issues). Try pulling the vacuum pipe from the carb and sucking on it, then stick it back. Sounds silly, but my old bike seemed to have an air block, and this worked straight away. Worth a try, and it wont cost anything.

I think maybe start looking at the plug and plug cap. Can't remember but is it a single or a twin?

Look on ebay for an LED indicator relay. Normal one wont work for LEDs, the draw is too low. Also, flashing too quickly is an MOT fail, so make sure its sorted before that.

I lube mine atleast once a week in wet weather, and clean and lube about every three. Lamp oil is very good for cleaning chains. I have always used spray chain lube and it's never made any difference to the o rings or x rings. I thought that was the whole point of chain lube. I did have a scott oiler on one of my bikes but couldn't be arsed swapping it over. They are very good mind, espesially if you're forgetfull.

That's what I reckon by looking at the pics. Looks like you need to get rid of that make shift seal.

Are you sure you have correct free play on the cable. Sometimes a clutch will slip if the cable is very slightly too taught. If you take the rear wheel off the ground, using centre stand or some sort of stand, start it up and put it in neutral, if the rear wheel spins quite harsh, then your clutch cable is too taught. Also as Colin states above, some oils, especially some car oils, have anti friction additives, which don't work atall well with wet motorbike clutches. You have to be very careful with the bolts inside the clutch, like engine bolts. They only need to be over tightened a tiny bit and you can snap them. Maybe a good idea to buy a torque wrench, just to make sure.

My monies on water somewhere in the wiring system. Two bikes I have had in the past used to do as you describe on a regular basis, both lived outside. One would collect water by the coils, so needed unplugging, wiping and putting back each time, the other let water trickle into the ignition switch, which was more of a pain and took loads of blowing. You could do with another battery anyways, but I don't reckon thats what's causing the grief.

I thought they were all paper filters nowadays?

Sounds like a bargain to me

Yeah, you need all indicators fitted and working properly. I would keep the 2 stroke oil up to the brim and monitor it like that, shouldn't take too much oil, but depends on the engine. Not sure about the fan on those, is it supposed to be a side fitted fan on the diagrams you have? I think it should have one though. It's been many years since I had a scooter so can't really help you here mate

Ha ha. The same thing happened to me once. There was lots of shouting and swearing going in in the garage that day!

Hi mate. All lights that are fitted have to be secure and fully working, and all lenses have to be the correct colour and intact (you will get away with a crack). You need mirrors fitted to pass the MOT. Not sure about dash display lights. I don't think they are an MOT fail. Exhaust goes through noise and emissions. If the hole you have repaired is small enough, it may be ok, but if it fails the noise test because of it or the emissions are too high it will fail. Tax doesn't come under MOT I take it the engine is covered by fairing? If so, MOT testers cannot remove fairing to check, so should be ok. Horn has to work I think if it has no stand on it, it can't be failed on something that isn't there. Brake pads need to be within the wear marks. If they are below the minimum thickness they will fail. If I were you, I would get it to a garage and get them to check it over. Never ignore brakes, you can lose your life, or worse still, take someone elses if your brakes fail. The garage may be able to spot weld your exhaust, mirrors should always be attached to your bike anyway so you can see what is in the other lanes before moving out! Hope this all helps and good luck.

In that case mate, as long as the list price is reasonable, I would go and have a look, start it from cold (feel the engine or down pipes first to make sure that it hasn't just been started up before you get there). There may be a slight ticking from the engine at first, normal most of the time till the oil gets circulating, but there should be no obvious knocking. Check the oil filler for signs of white gumy fluid, may indicate dodgy head gasket or warped head. I would imagine if it's been used maily for track days that the brakes and chain and sprockets etc have been very well maintained. As mentioned above, check for crash damage, apart from that, if you're too cautious, you can miss a bargain! Best be on the safe side and take it out for a couple of miles test ride, making full use of all the gears, moderate and harsh braking, and crawling speed at the bite. Check the exhausts for smoke etc when you've finished (shouldn't be any, but with the weather like it is, expect lots of evaporation) Good luck. Whats she asking by the way?

The same thing happened to my wifes sr125. The o ring had deteriorated on the stop screw for the drain. Shut the fuel off, take the screw out (you will lose a little more fuel here) and check the state of the o rings and replace.

Hello, I've never had an R6, but there is always the danger of getting one that has been completely thrashed. I think I would be first checking the obvious on the engine, such as cracked head gasket or warped barrel, rattly cam chain etc. I think the R6 from that year are pretty much solid. Be prepared to spend a little on it though. I always buy used, and I am always ready to replace chain and sprockets, oil, plugs, filters, pads, brake fluid and am prepared to replace tyres, possibly the clutch. Any thing more then it's beginning to get a bit too expensive.

I use Kyoto pads and have done for years and I have never had any problems. I don't race my bike mind...

I have never had any luck with organic pads, find they wear down about 20 times faster too. Waste of money. As with the Tesco oil, I never knew they did it. I may give it a try on my next oil change. Great to hear about the home brew kits. I used to brew a couple of years ago, to a point where I had three presure barrels at a time in the garage working out as 11p a pint! Watch your waistline though.

I had a similar problem splitting my forks on my cb750. The clip needs to come out or they wont split. I gave up on mine in the end and took the forks to the garage. It took the guy about 2 hours and had to burn the seals out with a propane torch, they were that stuck! If they're on a Superdream (fantastic bike by the way), they will be very hard to remove I would imagine due to the age.

Though I didn't get round to fitting GPS on my bike, I made a 12V car socket attachment with a switch and fuse and about 1 metre of wire. I connected it straight to the battery and kept it switched off under the seat. You can then charge it like you do in a car and easily unplug it when you need to. You can get car GPS waterproof mounting kits to fit on bike handlebars on ebay for a reasonable amount.

Thanks

That digital adaptor thing looks cool. How much was that?