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I have seen loads of advice totally against WD40, but everyone who does seem to use it, says it works well with no problems. The only thing I really use it for on my chain is to give it a quick clean. I have always either used a scottoiler or spray on oils. I fitted a new chain and sprockets yesterday, and I'm going to try out a big tub of gear oil and apply with a paintbrush every 4 or 5 days. To me that seems like the best protection and lube for a very cheap price.

Yes. The ones with the friction surface on are the friction disks. The others are just steel disks that seperate them. The friction plates are two different types because they will go in a specific order. It will be in your manual or just replace the new ones in reverse order that you take the old ones out.

I use EBC friction disks in my clutch. I use my bike all year round but ride quite sensibly and don't use it on the track.

Right then, that leaves two other easy things to try. 1 - Do a voltage check on the battery, maybe you've had the bike sat for a while and there isn't enough spark to ignite the fuel mix effectively. 2 - Poor fuel mix. How long has the bike been stood? Was there fuel in the carb when left? Have you tried full choke and no choke to start?

Did you get to the bottom of this problem?

Strange. Check the choke like said in the other post. Not sure where it is on one of them but probably on the side of the carb. Could be low compression. Check that and see if it marries up roughly to the specs.

Ha ha yeah....Don't put the carbs in boiling water! I did mine with a bank of four carbs on to an inline four engine, so I put the rubbers into water seperatly then eased them on to the carb bodies one by one, then had to struggle with the whole bank of carbs and rubbers and force them onto the engine end! Whoever thinks of these designs?!!!! Good luck though. At least you've only got two rubbers to worry about.

Could be the plug caps. Happened to me once, the cap had unscrewed and was barely touching the HT lead insides. If your getting a shock, I doubt it would be the coil.

Dunno mate. Seems very cheap to me. I would personally be a bit weary, but then I'm VERY tight!

When you say sounds like a pit bike, do you mean the heavy rattling drive chain sort of noise? If so, your drive chain is probably loose and slapping the swing arm, would explain why it quietens down after about 30mph. If it's coming from the engine, could be due to low oil, or just not leaving it to warm up before riding. My drive chain slaps a little but it to it's correct free travel, could be because the guy who had it before me had fitted smaller sprockets.

It is a big engine though mate. My bike gets arund 160 miles to a tank (18 litres), which isn't far off what your getting out of yours, and mines smaller, and probably slower too!

There will have been old ones in, and as said above, they compress so much that they look like the cylinder head. A small screw driver prying it will loosen it and then you'll see it. If you don't take them out, you won't get a proper seal. As for keeping them in, I smear them in grease and stick them in. The grease burns off later.

I serviced my bike today, expecting no problems as usual. Whilst trying to sort out my front brake squeel, I came across my well and truely seized pad pin cover. Just the small slot head screw bit that keeps the crap off the pin bolt. Anyway, it wouldn't budge and I ground off loads of metal from the slot trying to get it out! Drilled it through and started to insert the easy out bits, snapped one off flush!!!! Tried to drill round it and snapped off two HSS drill bits level with the bloody thing! Running out of ideas, I went through my garage drawers and unsheaved my manual impact driver that I have never used, but have had for ages. Well, what can I say....THESE THINGS ARE ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC!!!! EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE ONE!. Screw came out with second whack of hammer on the driver. I don't know why I have never used it before, but I will be using it for all sorts of hard to remove bits from now on. I really recommend one of these to anyone. Mine cost me about £5, a few years ago new.

I had the same problem with my 1980 cb750c. If I remember rightly, the rubbers need to squeeze over a lip on both ends? Pain in the arse! I'm glad they use smooth joints now and a clamp on each instead! I eventually managed mine by doing the same as you, except I soaked mine in boiling water rather than use a hairdryer (I didn't think of that), plenty of grease. I made my knuckles raw, but it worked eventually.

Could be a stuck float in the carb maybe?

I've never replaced an exhaust system without shearing off at least one stud. I usually end uo filing whats left into a square and using mole grips after a few hard whacks with a hammer.

To be honest mate, probably not worth the effort. You wont get much more out of it and the hassle would be grand. Can you not just get a bigger bike , or are you restricted at the moment?

Yeah, fair enough. I looked into getting LED indicators when one of mine broke, and a replacement for the single light was £16! Quite a few sets on ebay came with the relay for about £15, for all indicators and relay. But I suppose, if you bought the indicators seperate, it may be a bit costy to find a relay on its own. Resistors are very cheap and last longer than your bike will.

I have always been in the habbit of removing the cable from its sleeve and applying extra grease (nothing fancy, just standard bearingy type stuff) with my fingers. I re grease every year or so, not sure if required, but it can't hurt!

Agreed that's a cheap way and effective way of doing it, but changing the relay is much easier and you don't need to bother working out how you're going to hide the resistors on certain bikes.

As said above, if you change usual bulbs (around the 5w range), you will need to get a rely that is designed for use with LEDs. The LED indicators draw much less power, so your old relay will not work correctly. Just find out how many pins your old relay has and go on ebay and buy a replacement for LED bulbs. You will need to change front and rear bulbs though, as a combination will cause problems.

Those easy out sets are fantastic. I got given a set about 5 years ago. The set included a small hss drill bit and 5 sizes of the screw things and an adjustable spanner. The set has saved me loads of times. I start with the smallest, then if that starts stripping the part, move on to the next size and so on, though I have never needed to move up more than two sizes.

Either will be fine. The link should come with the seals anyway.

Sounds like a gasket has blown a small hole. Put a bit of soapy water round the gaskets and fire it up and look for bubbles (if it is that)

Oh yeah. Forgot about the retaining bolts!!! Not a problrm though. They sometimes just spin when you try to loosen them. Something thin and long that you can jam in the tube to hold it will be fine, so you can ndo the bolt on the bottom. I used the aluminium thin tube I use for opening the loft in my house. Use your imagination, you don't need 'special tools'. Seriously, it's an easy job, and certainly not woth paying a garage 140 quid!!!!