alexanderfoti Posted November 29, 2011 Posted November 29, 2011 Hi allI just had a go at doing a front + rear sprocket and chain change on my 125 Varadero.Removed the old crappy chain, laid it next to the new chain (genuine honda replacement kit), adjusted it to the correct length and put it all back.My Crappy Haynes manual doesn't even mention adjusting chain slack!!! Seriously this should be in any motorbike service manual!The issues I have are:a)with the chain adjuster at the "new" position, the chain is way too slack, am in going to have to remove some more links?b)whats the easiest way to get the alignment back correctly, I buggered up with the adjuster bolts and now they are all over the place.Thanks in advance! Quote
mealexme Posted November 29, 2011 Posted November 29, 2011 Hi allI just had a go at doing a front + rear sprocket and chain change on my 125 Varadero.Removed the old crappy chain, laid it next to the new chain (genuine honda replacement kit), adjusted it to the correct length and put it all back.My Crappy Haynes manual doesn't even mention adjusting chain slack!!! Seriously this should be in any motorbike service manual!The issues I have are:a)with the chain adjuster at the "new" position, the chain is way too slack, am in going to have to remove some more links?b)whats the easiest way to get the alignment back correctly, I buggered up with the adjuster bolts and now they are all over the place.Thanks in advance! Chains are easy to tighten without taking out any links or even taking the wheel back off, You basically just move the rear wheel backwards.I think a youtube video would be best for "how too's" because you need to be able to watch how its done to understand, rather than read it. Well I do anyway, so"> step 1: 1:18step 2: 2:12step 3 (and how to align the wheel): 3:24 although I usually use the notches for reference and dont bother with measuring. Some bikes have a notch on the plate he is talking about at 3:38 too, as a reference point rather than using the edge of the plate to line up with the notches on the swingarm Quote
alexanderfoti Posted November 29, 2011 Author Posted November 29, 2011 Sorry, I wasnt clear in my original post. I have moved the back wheel forward using the adjuster bolts to the stock position when a new chain is installed, but the chain is way to slack at this position (making me think I need to take more links out ) Quote
mealexme Posted November 29, 2011 Posted November 29, 2011 Sorry, I wasnt clear in my original post. I have moved the back wheel forward using the adjuster bolts to the stock position when a new chain is installed, but the chain is way to slack at this position (making me think I need to take more links out )Ah. When you say forward, do you mean towards the front of the bike? Because to tighten it you need to move it back towards the rear of the bike And if the chain is the same length as the old one, then the new one should fit. I say should because I have known stranger things to happen haha Quote
alexanderfoti Posted November 29, 2011 Author Posted November 29, 2011 Sorry, I wasnt clear in my original post. I have moved the back wheel forward using the adjuster bolts to the stock position when a new chain is installed, but the chain is way to slack at this position (making me think I need to take more links out )Ah. When you say forward, do you mean towards the front of the bike? Because to tighten it you need to move it back towards the rear of the bike And if the chain is the same length as the old one, then the new one should fit. I say should because I have known stranger things to happen haha Yeah towards the front of the bike, the reason I moved it forward, was because I had already used up the adjustment on the old worn chain). I am pretty sure I have to take some links out, i initially had to take out 4! for it to be in the right ballpark. Quote
tryme Posted November 29, 2011 Posted November 29, 2011 well why arent you moving it away from the bike i.e backwards. surely this would tighten it? Quote
alexanderfoti Posted November 29, 2011 Author Posted November 29, 2011 well why arent you moving it away from the bike i.e backwards. surely this would tighten it? That is only a quick fix, If I do this, then I am at the end of my adjustment limit on a new chain. In 3-6 months when I go to adjust the tension again, I wont be able to go any further. Quote
tryme Posted November 29, 2011 Posted November 29, 2011 ah ok. in that case i cant help you but im sure some one else can. hope it all works out Quote
alexanderfoti Posted November 29, 2011 Author Posted November 29, 2011 ah ok. in that case i cant help you but im sure some one else can. hope it all works out Cheers Quote
mealexme Posted November 29, 2011 Posted November 29, 2011 Ah sorry, need to learn to read posts correctly hahaI think all/most chains are loose if you push the wheel all the way forward, even if they are brand new. If the chain is the correct chain for your bike (i.e it says the name of your bike on the box/webpage of where you got it from) then it should be ok to move the rear wheel as far back as it can go. Are you sure you are at the end of the limit? Although you say you adjusted your chain to be the same length as the old one? If it is a genuine part, then it should not need adjusting before putting it on the bike. If you made it the same length as the old one, then bare in mind that the old one has most likely stretched and is at its limit, so adjusting the new one to the same size has put it to its limit too. Can you readjust the chain to make it as how it was when you got it? Quote
alexanderfoti Posted November 29, 2011 Author Posted November 29, 2011 Ah sorry, need to learn to read posts correctly hahaI think all/most chains are loose if you push the wheel all the way forward, even if they are brand new. If the chain is the correct chain for your bike (i.e it says the name of your bike on the box/webpage of where you got it from) then it should be ok to move the rear wheel as far back as it can go. Are you sure you are at the end of the limit? Although you say you adjusted your chain to be the same length as the old one? If it is a genuine part, then it should not need adjusting before putting it on the bike. If you made it the same length as the old one, then bare in mind that the old one has most likely stretched and is at its limit, so adjusting the new one to the same size has put it to its limit too. Can you readjust the chain to make it as how it was when you got it? If I re-adjust the chain back to how I receive it, its wayyyyy too loose, even with the wheel all the way back.There is a little diagram on the side of my swing arm where the wheel bolt is and it says something like .Im just trying to adjust the wheel back to the "new" section. Quote
MrBlonde71 Posted November 29, 2011 Posted November 29, 2011 Count the links on the old chain and see if there are the same number on the new one, It's unlikely but your old chain may have stretched a massive amount, 1 link length, and you may need to remove an extra ink. Quote
alexanderfoti Posted November 29, 2011 Author Posted November 29, 2011 Count the links on the old chain and see if there are the same number on the new one, It's unlikely but your old chain may have stretched a massive amount, 1 link length, and you may need to remove an extra ink. I suppose its possible. Im not the best at chain maintenance and the old chain had 9,000 miles on it Quote
fullscreenaging Posted November 29, 2011 Posted November 29, 2011 Count the links on the old chain and see if there are the same number on the new one, It's unlikely but your old chain may have stretched a massive amount, 1 link length, and you may need to remove an extra ink. My thoughts too.Your old chain will have stretched. Quote
alexanderfoti Posted November 29, 2011 Author Posted November 29, 2011 Guess I will be taking out another link. I HATE my chain breaker! Cheers for the help! Quote
XmisterIS Posted December 2, 2011 Posted December 2, 2011 What others have said - count the links. My old chain was about 1/2 a link longer than the new one, as I recall. I think that the new chain should have about 25mm slack when the rear wheel is at the mid-point of the adjuster.Yes, chain breakers are a pain in the arse, especially when trying to evenly mushroom the pin heads on the joining link of the new chain ... Quote
alexanderfoti Posted February 13, 2012 Author Posted February 13, 2012 Just FYI I ended up buying a new chain, and moving the back wheel all the way forward, and setting the correct tension on that one. All working lovely Quote
megawatt Posted February 13, 2012 Posted February 13, 2012 Where are you Alex. Can you get bike down to my place ? Quote
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