Bike won't start funny buzzing noise

[Adam]

As the title suggests my bike won't start ! It's an 02 Honda nsr 125 it hasnt been used for a while, when I say a while I mean about a year. Now I have a new sparkplug on order which should arrive tomorrow, fingers crossed. The battery is almost completely flat but I have a battery jump starter thing which should in theory give the bike enough power to start up. But when I try to start the bike all I get is a buzzing noise from underneath the petrol tank near the battery itself, so I've stripped the bike down and found the part which was buzzing. It's got a rubber casing over it which can be pulled off and underneath is a gold casing with wires running into it, again this gold part can be ditached from the bike. Now my question is, what is this part and why is it buzzing? It only buzzes when I try to start the bike, it starts of load and gets a bit quieter the long I hold the starter button. Does anyone have any idea what's going on and how to fix it?

I have a picture of the part in question which should hopefully be below but I don't know if it will work because I'm using my phone, if it doesn't then you should be able to click on the link and see it.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151039433564759&set=a.10151039434169759.453528.788829758&type=3

[Adam]

I had a quick google and the part I'm referring too is called a 'solenoid' I found one on eBay I have a link for it incase the other picture didn't work http://bit.ly/MwCQxI

[megawatt]

Yes mate, the solenoid is energised by the battery and allows a lot of current to flow along the thick wires from the battery to the starter motor. Try your new battery in place and it should be good, as long as your carb/injector isn't gummed up with old fuel???

[Adam]

I will try a new battery once I've bought one, do you have to charge the battery before putting it in or are they already charged?I know this is gonna sound stupid but is the carb the part located under the air box which is attached to it?

[Tango]

Wet batteries come with bottles of the Acid mix to fill them.....once filled they are pretty much ready to use immediately.

I don't know your bike....but I'm guessing that its probably injected......so the thing under the airbox is likely to be the Throttle body. You could try bumping the bike to see if it will start.....

[Adam]

Im gonna have a look on fleabay for a battery only problem is its gonna have to wait until next month as I can't afford it. Well when I say can't afford it the other half says we can't, what does she know... Haha I do have a service manual disc which has everything on so I'll have a look through that and see if I can find where the carbs are.

[Adam]

The only battery's I can find are like this one http://bit.ly/LZ40x3 but that's a sealed battery so I'm assuming you don't add anything too it. I don't really want to have to buy a charger just to use it once..

[eastanglianbiker]

looking at this line PLEASE NOTE

Conventional lead/acid and Self-sealed maintenance-free batteries are delivered 70% dry charged. After filling with the correct battery acid we recommend that you fully charge the battery before installation

then you might have to get it filled with acid locally

[Colin the Bear]

I don't really want to have to buy a charger just to use it once..

 

Tools and equipment should be looked at as investments. For the amount of time a tool lasts added to the number of times it will be used compared to the lost time by not having one multiplied by the minimum wage hourly rate, they are a bargain.

A decent charger will last a lifetime. This won't be the last problem you have with a battery

[mealexme]

before you do anything it may be worth checking the fuses. I had a similar problem with my YBR. the bike short circuited because of an exposed wire, blew the fuse and every time I tried to start it I would hear a buzzing noise. I think in my case it was also the solonoid, once i had changed the fuses a few times and figured out why it kept blowing them, it started fine

so may be worth a look as it doesn't cost anything to have a look

[Adam]

I now have a new battery which i've put in the bike, but still i get that buzzing noise from the solenoid, going by what Alex says could it be the bike short circuiting? If i turn the key into the 'on' position the starter motor moves and pulls the wire but then gets stuck (if that makes sense). It starts to vibrate which is the cogs trying to turn which they cant. I tried to have a look where the cables went but its dark and i cant see a thing so gave up! Any ideas?

Also I put some new indicators on the bike because it got an advisory at its last m.o.t due to one side not flashing but constantly staying on. I've now replaced all of the indicators and none of them flash just stay on. They arent LED they're just your standard bulb ones, is it something to do with the amount of power required by the bulbs which is making them stay on? If its a case of buying some new bulbs that would be the easiest option.

I really need to get it working cause the other half isnt very happy that i spent £50 on a new battery and indicators and it doesnt work, so im getting the whole "your bike is more important etc etc".

[Spudnic]

Check the wattage and voltage on your bulbs are the same as your old ones as that can cause problems. I changed a indicator bulb in my bike with the wrong one and it flashed fast. Put your bike in gear and rock it back and forward to get the starter motor moving as it could be stuck and then try starting again. Good luck

[Weebl]

If the solenoid is not working (which it sounds like it is not) then bump start the bike. It should still start this way. If it starts ok like that then you know you just need to buy a new solenoid.

Get it started and running before worrying too much about the indicators, if after it runs and is running they still do it, you can start looking at the relay, but having good voltage to start with may help.

[Adam]

Bit of an update for you all, I got the bike started by bumping it as suggested everything seems to sound okay. So would it definitely be the solenoid that needs replacing? Cause there's 2 on eBay one at £18.50 inc p&p and another for around £30.

As for the indicators they worked fine after the engine had been running for a while flashing at a normal rate, but if the engine is off they just stay on constantly. Could that be anything to do with the solenoid as well?

Thanks for all your help so far I really appreciate it

[pointblank0]

Do they stay on even when the indicators are turned off?

[Adam]

No, only when I turn them on.

[pointblank0]

Strange. I would say relay switch, but if they work with the engine running then that's unlikely.

Just a thought, may be a loose connection or bit of bare wire that corrects itself when the engine is running due to the vibrations. Maybe worth checking the wiring loom when you have a bit of time and checking the flasher relay is tightly connected.

[Weebl]

Bit of an update for you all, I got the bike started by bumping it as suggested everything seems to sound okay. So would it definitely be the solenoid that needs replacing? Cause there's 2 on eBay one at £18.50 inc p&p and another for around £30.

 

Sounds like it. The bike starts so you know that is OK, just the starter not working so the starter solenoid is a good bet. No guarantees though, mechanics don't really work like that and electrics even more so.

 

As for the indicators they worked fine after the engine had been running for a while flashing at a normal rate, but if the engine is off they just stay on constantly. Could that be anything to do with the solenoid as well?

 

No. The starter solenoid has nothing to do with the indicators. More likely the battery you have put in is not charged fully so with the engine running you have enough power to run the indicators properly, with the engine off and all power coming from the battery you don't. Do you have a voltmeter you can check the battery voltage with?

[Adam]

I know it can't be guaranteed I just don't wanna spend money on something that might not work, but I suppose I'll never know unless I try! Can a bike pass it's m.o.t without electric starter, but from being bump started? Surely not.

Yes I was thinking that it might be due to the charge in the battery so I'm hoping it's just that, I mean I'll only really need the indicators whilst the engine is on anyway. I dont have a voltage thingy here but my girlfriends dad does so I could borrow it. If the engine is running and the bike stationary does it charge the battery or does it have to be moving?

My main problem is the bike is at my mums near Cambridge and I live in Norwich so I don't have much time when I am here. It would be so much easier if it was at home but hey ho!

[Weebl]

It should charge the battery as long as the engine is running. That is one of the things you need the voltmeter for. check it with the engine off, that is what the battery is holding, should be around 12 and a bit volts. Start the engine and check again, should be around 13 and a half ish volts. not a definitive test but will give you a good indication.

It is probably not an MOT fail to not have a starter motor, but the tester does have to start the engine to test the exhaust, so he might refuse to test if you tell him he has to bounce it up and down the road. They do have a caveat saying they can refuse to test if the 'vehicle is not fit to be driven where necessary' You could always ask though and offer to bump it yourself when he needs it fired up?

[Adam]

I'll borrow a voltmeter and check it but it's gonna have to wait until next month which is a pain in the arse! I'm tempted to buy that solenoid for £18.50 is that a good price? I don't know how much they are generally so I wouldn't know haha.

It'll probably be best if the bike starts for the m.o.t so I'm hoping it is just the solenoid that need replacing. If it isn't what else could it be? If I press the starter button now I just loose all power to the bike which Im guessing might be down to the battery being low, so next time I'll leave her running for a bit and check the battery at the same time.

[Weebl]

I'll borrow a voltmeter and check it but it's gonna have to wait until next month which is a pain in the arse! I'm tempted to buy that solenoid for £18.50 is that a good price? I don't know how much they are generally so I wouldn't know haha.

It'll probably be best if the bike starts for the m.o.t so I'm hoping it is just the solenoid that need replacing. If it isn't what else could it be? If I press the starter button now I just loose all power to the bike which Im guessing might be down to the battery being low, so next time I'll leave her running for a bit and check the battery at the same time.

 

Before you spend money, get the battery charged and try it.

Fault diagnosing electrical problems with a flat battery is extremely difficult even if you know what you are doing. Get to the situation where you know it has a good battery with good voltage before you start deciding things don't work.

[Adam]

So what do you suggest leave the engine running to charge the battery or should I buy a battery charger?

[Weebl]

You can do either, but a 2 stroke won't like sitting for ages idling.

A battery charger is a good purchase, they always come in handy, you can get battery conditioners for bikes which are designed to be left plugged in when the bike is not being ridden. If you bought one of them it will be useful for years, and may be the conditioner you leave on your 1000cc superbike in a few years time?

Could you even borrow a battery charger? most of the people I know who drive have one knocking around somewhere? You could even take it off the bike and connect it with a set of jump leads to your running car as a short term fix to get 12 plus volts in it.

[Adam]

Ive tried using a jump starter battery which I charged for 24 hours and it still made the same noise! Unfortunately no one I know has a battery charger other than my brother but his is broken (he tried jump starting his car with it haha) would a trickle charger do the job then? If not I'll have to invest in a charger.