Nublust Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Few little things with a 55 plate YBR125 I've just bought.There's a small crack on the exhaust, it's underneath so I haven't actually looked at it properly yet but you can see/feel the warm air coming out of it. Can that just be welded, is it even a massive problem?The clutch lever is nearly all the way back out when it engages, it just feels loose and the biting point seems tiny. I don't know whether that's just a bike thing or the clutch needs replacing? When I click down into first from neutral it also jumps forward slightly.It was MOTd before I bought it, advisories are front brake fluid low (I can just top that up right?) and rear springs are "corroded but not seriously weakened", so they can just be done at some point in the next few months?Thanks First bike so I'll probably have more questions at some point... Quote
klingelton Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 check your brakes for any leaks. replace the fluid. Might as well while you're messing around with the brake fluid!change the suspension out as soon as possible.motorcycle clutches bite quite after you let the clutch lever out quite far. This is normal behaviour. the little jump as it goes into first from neutral is also fairly normal. Quote
megawatt Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Clutch cable needs adjusting, exhaust needs welding. Sooner rather than later. Quote
Nublust Posted January 28, 2014 Author Posted January 28, 2014 Would something like this putty be ok for fixing the exhaust?And these springs should fit ok? Quote
Chrissb6 Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Clutch cable needs adjusting, exhaust needs welding. Sooner rather than later. Best welding the broken bracket, metal putty not really the way to go on a load bearing assembly. Quote
eastanglianbiker Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 is it a rust hole or a vapour drain hole at the bottom of the pipe to allow moisture to drain out of when bike first starts up from cold,have you checked the chain to make sure its adjusted correctly as a slack chain can cause similar issues with lurching forward Quote
Nublust Posted January 28, 2014 Author Posted January 28, 2014 Thanks for the advice guys, I'll have a better look around it tomorrow and take some pictures of the exhaust and see what you think. Quote
Nublust Posted January 28, 2014 Author Posted January 28, 2014 Seems the neutral light doesn't work either. I can't find anything online telling me how I can get to the bulbs underneath the clock, don't suppose anyone has some experience with it, or can link me in the right direction? Quote
Tango Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 I'd be suprised if the Neutral light bulb has blown........I'd be less suprised if the neutral switch is broken or the wire has come off or broken..... Neutral switch is normally near the front sprocket or the gear change shaft (often under the front sprocket cover).Have you checked the oil level in the bike since getting it? Sounds like it's not had the best care taken of it......and low oil level can cause the clutch to drag a bit......and an oil change may not be a bad idea here...... Quote
Nublust Posted January 28, 2014 Author Posted January 28, 2014 Well the bloke I bought it off said he'd serviced it, the sprockets and chain are brand new as well, so from that I'm assuming he's done an oil change.I also went out and looked at the brake fluid reservoir, it's full and looks very clean so he must have changed that as well.I'll check the switch tomorrow in the light though, thank you for the info Quote
Tango Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Ahhh....if he's replaced the chain and sprockets there's a chance he's knocked the neutral switch or pulled the wire off...... Quote
OhJay Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 front brake fluid low (I can just top that up right?) Check the pads. In an ideal world the brake fluid level in the reservoir only goes down as the pads do, when you change the pads and push the pistons back all the fluid comes back up the system into the reservoir.This isn't an ideal world but check that before just throwing more in or you're in for a nasty shock when you do Quote
megawatt Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Probably find that brakes bind if he,s fitted new pads without cleaning brake pistons first. Quote
Nublust Posted January 29, 2014 Author Posted January 29, 2014 Probably find that brakes bind if he,s fitted new pads without cleaning brake pistons first. Yeah the front brake is binding quite badly. I lifted the front up on the centre stand and a neighbour tried to turn the wheel and struggled, dragged all the way.To add to the headache, one of the screws to get the cover off to get to the neutral switch has hardly any head left on it, so I'm going to need to get something to get that off... Quote
Grumpy Old Git Posted January 29, 2014 Posted January 29, 2014 To add to the headache, one of the screws to get the cover off to get to the neutral switch has hardly any head left on it, so I'm going to need to get something to get that off... Sounds like he tried to fix this but could not get the screw undone.Use an impact driver or carefully cut a new slot in the head of the screw. Worst case, file/grind/drill the head off and once the cover is removed, use a mole wrench to extract the body of the screw.Obviously use new screw(s) when refitting the cover. Quote
Nublust Posted January 29, 2014 Author Posted January 29, 2014 Dire update.I took the front calliper off to clean it and see if that would sort it. I took the pads off, pulled the brake lever to push the piston out a little to see if any grime was stopping it from going back in, and the piston came out and fluid went everywhere. It looks like some kind of rubber seal is tattered and hanging off as well.I didn't do anything wrong did I? Neighbour thinks I should call them and complain but on the advert they stated no warranty etc, so I'm not sure where I stand. Quote
GazW Posted January 29, 2014 Posted January 29, 2014 Clean the caliper, piston, new rubber seals and refit. Fill with brake fluid, bleed them then your away.It's a job that should be done periodically, your unfortunate that it's fallen on you, but for the price of a it of brake fluid and a seal kit your done. If there's no warranty and you've bought sold as seen there's not a lot you can do. Quote
Nublust Posted January 29, 2014 Author Posted January 29, 2014 Clean the caliper, piston, new rubber seals and refit. Fill with brake fluid, bleed them then your away.It's a job that should be done periodically, your unfortunate that it's fallen on you, but for the price of a it of brake fluid and a seal kit your done. If there's no warranty and you've bought sold as seen there's not a lot you can do. Got the bits on order. Weirdly, even though it's a 55 plate, it's got the front brake setup of a 2007 YBR. It has the 5 spoke wheels opposed to the 3 spoke the 55 plate should have. Must have been in a crash at some point and repaired with newer parts, the HPI came back clear though so it must have happened without involving the insurance.Thanks to everyone for the help by the way, seriously appreciate it! Quote
klingelton Posted January 29, 2014 Posted January 29, 2014 ha! was posting a reply along the same lines!Brakes are pretty easy things to work on really. Quote
OhJay Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 Dire update.I took the front calliper off to clean it and see if that would sort it. I took the pads off, pulled the brake lever to push the piston out a little to see if any grime was stopping it from going back in, and the piston came out and fluid went everywhere. It looks like some kind of rubber seal is tattered and hanging off as well.Been there, done that. If it came out on the first squeeze then yes, the pistons were so far out and the pads must have been so far down they needed doing. Now you get to learn how to service calipers It's not difficult. Take all the pistons out, clean them up. Take the knackered seals out (should be 2 in each hole) and clean the calipers up. Give the new seals a soak in new brake fluid for a couple of minutes and slip them back in. Pistons back in. New fluid in the system, bleed, Robert's your mother's brother. Quote
Nublust Posted January 30, 2014 Author Posted January 30, 2014 I'll be doing it along side my laptop with this page open and a youtube video Would you flush the system out with anything first, in case a bit of grime fall in with the piston out or whatever? Quote
klingelton Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 Controversial, but you can smear some lube around the piston before pushing it back into the caliper. It won't mix with the brake fluid because the seal will push it out, but it will keep the dust seal nice and moist. Delboys garage trick! Quote
mattycoops43 Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 Controversial, but you can smear some lube around the piston before pushing it back into the caliper. It won't mix with the brake fluid because the seal will push it out, but it will keep the dust seal nice and moist. Delboys garage trick! Yes, it's called caliper grease and is red, don't put anything else in there or it may perish the seals. Quote
Tango Posted February 1, 2014 Posted February 1, 2014 Yep.....Red Rubber Grease......helps the pistons move more freely in the calipers and stops the seals getting knackered out by the piston sticking to them and tearing bits out of them...... Quote
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