Harri Posted December 23, 2014 Posted December 23, 2014 Hi again. With regards to my rear brake post below, I have now cleaned the caliper piston, replaced the seals, replaced the brake fluid, and now fitted new brake pads. There is a lot more meat on the new pads BUT, still no effective braking I can bring the wheel to a standstill just rolling in the garage. But on the road? Useless! I mean it doesn't slow the bike down one little bit. So controlling the throttle and applying the front brake as my only means of slowing and stopping is quite tricky.This now means a master cylinder rebuild. Not a big job, but a little more money. And then - if that doesn't improve matters I'm stuffed Surely a new disc wouldn't be the answer?After renewing the spark plugs she fired almost first time with a choke and idles nicely when warmed up. Riding in the lower gears though feels a bit juddery. If that's a word? There is a noticeable judder on accelerating in the first 2 gears at low speed. I know this could be a hundred things but what should I consider first? Barcud Quote
fullscreenaging Posted December 23, 2014 Posted December 23, 2014 Have you bled the line correctly?The brake pedal should be solid when it kicks in. No spongy feeling Quote
Harri Posted December 23, 2014 Author Posted December 23, 2014 Hi Deso, as far as I know I've bled the brake properly. I use a tube with a non return valve on the bleeder and I'm sure I pass new fluid right through the system. But, it might be worth trying it again.Cheers Barcud Quote
fullscreenaging Posted December 23, 2014 Posted December 23, 2014 You need to make sure there are no air bubbles coming out of the bleed nipple into the tube. It can take a while to get all the air out of the system Quote
Tango Posted December 23, 2014 Posted December 23, 2014 Juddering in the lower gears?.......how's the chain and sprockets? If the plugs were a bit naff, the bike may be in need of a good service....oil, filters, etc.... Quote
cockercas Posted December 23, 2014 Posted December 23, 2014 To bleed brakes you want some clear tubing that fits on the bleed nipple. Aquarium tubing for the oxygen pumps fits. Place one end on the nipple, one end in a container with the end submerged in some liquid. Open the fluid reservoir and pump the brake peddleKeep it pressed down and crack open the bleed nipple 1/4turn. Tighten the nipple. Pump brake peddle again, Keep pressure on and open bleed nipple again. Close nipple and repeat untill no air bubbles come out. Don't let the fluid get to low in the reservoir. Quote
Harri Posted December 23, 2014 Author Posted December 23, 2014 Hi and thanks guys. Perhaps I should have done 2 threads really. Anyway.I am using a motorcycle brake bleeder from Halfords. As it has a non return on the pipe I thought this would do away with putting the end into a bowl of fluid? And also help generally. I will try a brake bleed again and take into consideration what you suggest.The juddering? My initial thinking was the chain jumping! But then going by the sellers ad' :Recent new chain & sprockets, & service, plugs, oil & filters all changed.But then the plugs didn't look too great Maybe the chain needs adjusting? There seems to be quite a way to go taking the wheel back judging by the indicators.If I make a mark on the chain, and line it up with a mark on the rear sprocket, take it for a spin, the marks should still be in line. Would that work?Barcud Quote
RantMachine Posted December 24, 2014 Posted December 24, 2014 Never trust the seller! Mine had supposedly fitted a new water pump just before I bought it, and guess what blew up a few months ago? Quote
pointblank0 Posted December 24, 2014 Posted December 24, 2014 How much slack have you got in the chain centre point? Seller may have put a new chain on but may not have adjusted it correctly. Quote
Chrissb6 Posted December 24, 2014 Posted December 24, 2014 Hi if you can lock the rear wheel and release it with the bike on the main stand then l would say the brake mechanism is working properly, what it then boils down to is the pads grip on the disc - friction bite. What you have to understand is that the rear brake was never designed to stop the bike by itself the main stopping power for the bike is the front brakes hence there considerably larger and more powerful than the rear. Trying to stop a bike only on the back brake will end up with a lock up and tears Quote
fq-craigus Posted December 24, 2014 Posted December 24, 2014 Simply feel the slack you have, no need to start marking the chain. You should have between 1'' to 1 1/4'' of movement Quote
Harri Posted December 24, 2014 Author Posted December 24, 2014 Cheers guys, I am gonna re-bleed the brakes then see just how much braking power I have. I shall see just how much slack I have and then take it from there.Will have to be Friday now because, ho ho ho I'll get back to you.Barcud Quote
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