MissBex Posted April 15, 2015 Author Posted April 15, 2015 Top tip for checking coolant levels: Hold a torch against the reservoir - the refraction will make it dead easy to see the level. Funny you should say that, I thought that too so I did try with a torch and still couldn't see anything, probs too sunny out or maybe the torch wasn't bright enough or something. Quote
MissBex Posted April 15, 2015 Author Posted April 15, 2015 Just a little update, I just noticed there some coolant that looks like it run down onto the metal part that the crash bung goes onto, just under where the rad cap is. So i've taken off the little fairing that was covering it to have a proper look. I'm trying to get the rad cap off but I can't seem to budge that little screw holding it on :/http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/008_zps6vyxa42h.jpgEDIT: This is looking like a culprit... looks to have had something done to it before as well from the looks of the hard white stuff that's under the rad cover?http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/007_zpsvipf1xb3.jpg Quote
Chrissb6 Posted April 15, 2015 Posted April 15, 2015 Hi Bex, there's a safety catch on the rad cap you first turn it a quarter turn anti clock wise until you hit the stop then press down on the cap and turn anti clock again to release it. it's to stop the cap blowing off in your face if released under pressure. Quote
MissBex Posted April 15, 2015 Author Posted April 15, 2015 Hi Bex, there's a safety catch on the rad cap you first turn it a quarter turn anti clock wise until you hit the stop then press down on the cap and turn anti clock again to release it. it's to stop the cap blowing off in your face if released under pressure. Hi chris, the cap wont turn at all as far as I could see until the locking screw is out of it. I tried and tried with several sized screwdrivers and it just wont budge, even tried a little wd40 type stuff on it but no joy Quote
Chrissb6 Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Hi Bex, there's a safety catch on the rad cap you first turn it a quarter turn anti clock wise until you hit the stop then press down on the cap and turn anti clock again to release it. it's to stop the cap blowing off in your face if released under pressure. Hi chris, the cap wont turn at all as far as I could see until the locking screw is out of it. I tried and tried with several sized screwdrivers and it just wont budge, even tried a little wd40 type stuff on it but no joy Morning Bex, l've just done a little search! You learn something new everyday! Your radcap do's indeed have a locking screw which needs to be removed before you can get the cap off. If the screw is really solid and won't move there ways and means of getting it out but unless you have know how and tools you could end up buggering up the screw head. If your taking the bike in for a service l would leave it and let the mechanic's sort it. Quote
MissBex Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 ah Oky doky then, thanks Chris Yeah it's a little bugger of a screw!Someone from the hornetforum has said that it looks like someone has put a bolt in (to hold rad cover & little fairing on) that's too long and punctured the rad, then tried to bodge the hole with plastic metal! I would imagine this means I'd need a new rad? Would it still be ok to ride? (must have been like this unnoticed for a while now)Won't have the money for the service or for a fix till 3 weeks time Quote
MissBex Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 Ok so I've taken the Rad cover off for a proper look, It's not looking too pretty...Silly screw I can't undo:http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/011_zpspbtsqk8h.jpgRad, probs seen better days:http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/009_zpsv3de8js3.jpgNot looking pretty...http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/010_zpsn4egcpq0.jpg Quote
Chrissb6 Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Ok so I've taken the Rad cover off for a proper look, It's not looking too pretty...Silly screw I can't undo:http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/011_zpspbtsqk8h.jpgRad, probs seen better days:http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/009_zpsv3de8js3.jpgNot looking pretty...http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/010_zpsn4egcpq0.jpgHmmm that radiator doesn't look healthy l have to admit, someone has messed with it and not fixed it proper. The scaling of the paint from the neck of the redcap down suggest its been leaking for a while. I wonder what sort of a problem happened at the bottom of the rad and what was used to seal it???Hopefully Bex, it's going to be a red hot summer the last thing you want is a weak radiator. Have the garage give you a quote to sort it and get back. Might be a good idea to start fishing for a replacement and have them fit it. Quote
MissBex Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 Hi again all, so another update, my step dad managed to get the screw out using the plier technique Please to see no gunk in there, but does need topping up in there. How high should it be? And should I just use distilled water (I don't have any green antifreeze at the mo)My stepdad also said I could use some Rad leak stop in there... should I? or just leave it for now and get a new rad? (£150 for a delkavic oem replacement) Quote
Chrissb6 Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Hi Bex this is all done from cold. The radiator need to be full and the expansion bottle between the lines. Have you not got you Halfords discount card via this site yet? Anyway, l would fill it up with the correct mixture you can mix it yourself but it cheap enough to buy it premixed, you don't need gallons of the stuff for what you need. I wouldn't use rad seal of any sort on a bike engine and in your case there's no need as your leak is external from your rad cap we think? Have you sourced a replacement cap? There's one here should you need one. Hope your soon sortedhttp://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB60 ... part_5976/ Quote
Stu Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Hi bex I'm not ignoring you I just haven't had time to reply to your pm It looks like Chris has answered most of your questions though The only thing I will say is now you can see everything I would run it up till the fan kicks in then switch it off and verify where the leak is actually coming from Quote
Tango Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Stick some K-seal in.....which may tide you over until you can source a replacement rad....... Quote
MissBex Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 Thanks guys,I'll start it up and let it run for a while tomorrow and see if I notice a leak - It's not going to be as hot a day for us here but see what I can find out. Then I might also take it for a run somewhere and see what happens.I seem to be getting conflicting info on using rad seals etc.. some say avoid and some advise to use it.. Have you not got you Halfords discount card via this site yet? I didn't even know about that!? Would come in very handy.There is green antifreeze in it so would I need green antifreeze & distilled water 50/50 for it? would I be able to mix blue with it instead? Quote
Tango Posted April 16, 2015 Posted April 16, 2015 Don't mix the antifreeze........ I used K-seal in my Speed 4 for a hole in the rad........sorted it out nicely.......but I wouldn't use any of the other stuff...... Quote
MissBex Posted April 16, 2015 Author Posted April 16, 2015 hmm, where to find it though..Halfords sell OAT 5 year stuff which is red by the looks which is silicate free.. but I cant find any normal green stuff thats silicate free - The green Comma Xtreme they also sell has silicates in. (My manual says silicate free and 50/50 mix)Castrol sell theirs in blue.Any ideas?Really the whole lot should be replaced as I have no idea when it was last done, but I just need to worry about this leak first really. As a matter of interest, anyone know how much antifreeze & water or ready mixed stuff would I need to do the whole system if I was to do it myself at some point? your leak is external from your rad cap we think? It could possibly come from the rad cap however I've got a strong feeling it's coming from that bodged up bolt hole, maybe as well as.I'll idle it tomorrow, check it. then run it around abit and check it. I'll report back my findings. Quote
Grumpy Old Git Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 K-Seal will fix small leaks (as in your case (if it is not a weak cap)).Nearest Honda M/Cycle dealer should have the correct 'green' fluid (although it will be a couple of bob dearer I expect).If you are going to 'service' your rad. then be sure to flush through with plenty of water (I use a hose on low flow) - Rad Flush is not needed. To re-fill, the amount needed should be in your bike manual / if not, google the forum for your bike and search on the question.Once done, add K-seal to the recommended amount and you should be OK for quite a while.NB. I would get a new cap anyway. Quote
Chrissb6 Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 Hi Bex, my money on the radiator cap, if that plug was leaking at the bottom of the radiator l would of thought it would be leaking all the time. You say that the water escapes when you stop, that coincides with the temperature rise in the water due to the cooling system pooling on the hot standing engine. Whilst your at it, l would suggest you take that bottom plug out and reseal it anyway. Use some Loctite thread sealant paste comes in a small tube readily available Halfords and the like, there's no point in filling the system knowing that your staring at a possible weak spot "best to be belt and braces"Other have mention internal sealant's I personally would hold fire on that until you stopped the external leaks around the radiator fittings first. Best of luck Quote
MissBex Posted April 17, 2015 Author Posted April 17, 2015 Hey all,Ok so, I topped up the rad with some putoline ready mixed green coolant I found in the bike shop.I let the bike idle and warm right up.When it got to this temp:http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/1536342_zpsne5uwq29.jpgCoolant came out of the overflow. It did this another couple of times whilst it was still idling and then also once I turned the bike off (I think the tank under the seat is still probably too high):http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/1536341_zpsbtfq1hgc.jpgI kept watching the side and cap of the rad for leaks but couldn't see any at all. I then pushed on the uplifted paint and saw some come out. I did it again and the paint completed came away. I carried on peeling it off and steam was coming off from what I can only assume was coolant trapped under it.http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/1536343_zpsutpvt5br.jpgI carried on watching now it was clear and still didn't notice any coolant leaking from cap or the hole.I'll go take it for a ride now and check again. Quote
Stu Posted April 17, 2015 Posted April 17, 2015 You may have spilt coolant when topping up and it's got behind the paint I don't think you have such a big problem At worse maybe a weak rad cap at best just an over filled reservoir I would keep a close eye on it and as long as the bike doesn't overheat it won't kill it I would draw some of the fluid out of the reservoir when it's cold and have it sat between the max and min lines Then have a few rides and watch for coolant If you still get coolant after that then replace the rad cap There is no obvious leak and you have seen the coolant come out the overflow If it was me I would do a full flush and new coolant too Quote
MissBex Posted April 17, 2015 Author Posted April 17, 2015 You may have spilt coolant when topping up and it's got behind the paint I don't think you have such a big problem At worse maybe a weak rad cap at best just an over filled reservoir I would keep a close eye on it and as long as the bike doesn't overheat it won't kill it I would draw some of the fluid out of the reservoir when it's cold and have it sat between the max and min lines Then have a few rides and watch for coolant If you still get coolant after that then replace the rad cap There is no obvious leak and you have seen the coolant come out the overflow If it was me I would do a full flush and new coolant too Thanks, yeah I guess I'll just keep an eye on it for now then. I was really careful when pouring it in, I didn't notice spilling any, but maybe I did. Might get a new rad cap anyway as suggested, won't hurt.I do want to do a whole flush on it, as well as other service bits like oil, brakes etc.. but as I was planning to take it to a garage for the service this first time I could ask them if they'd do that for me as well. Fingers crossed Yeah, Fingers crossed! Quote
MissBex Posted May 16, 2015 Author Posted May 16, 2015 Hey all, so still be getting coolant coming out after stopping on longer rides, and if it's sitting idling and getting hot. So I've got a new rad cap from david silver spares which came today to see if that does help at all and I've retopped up the rad with more coolant again. Only thing is, It didn't come with the little screw and when I try to put the one from my old cap in it, it doesn't seem to fit? do I have to force screw it in the first time or something? Here's some piccys of the old rad cap:http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/003_zpsjbdcwkjr.jpghttp://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/004_zpslfffdodx.jpgHere's the new & old one's screw holes:http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/006_zpshgtjkcxk.jpgHere's how far the screw will go into the new one and then it's stuck:http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k539/bexyboo88/Bikes/008_zps3rgkygqf.jpgI have decided that I am going to take the bike for a service, atleast just this one time and then hopefully learn and do it myself after that. I've got it booked in for this wednesday with Wheels in peterborough. Should be having the brake fluids and coolant changed too. Will see how it goes. Think I need some new tyres soon. Quote
Dav3y Posted May 16, 2015 Posted May 16, 2015 That looks like a self tapping screw so as long as you have a good fitting screwdriver then do it up tighter and it should cut the thread into the new cap. Once you've done that off the bike it should be good to go back on. Quote
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