Glorian Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 Time to change my front brake pads i think, Got a new set the other day (EBC) now going to attempt changing them saturday. Not done it before but i have read up on it and think i have it understood.I have a good range of tools, and a can of brake cleaner i was going to use on the discs ? Or shall i just use some water and cloth?-remove bolts on caliper and take off the disc, use bungee cord to hold the caliper while working on the disc-remove the pins-pull brake lever to push pistons out and remove the brake pad-clean the brake disc and the piston-put a little copper grease on back of new pad-place pad in and pin-replace caliperI've heard bandit pins can seize and be a nightmare to remove.. but i'll cross that bridge if i come to it If i'm missing anything please let me know, as well as any tips, first brake pad change.. Quote
Guest Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 You don't need to take the caliper off mate. 15min job, just remove pins and holding bits, pull out, push back pistons and in go new ones. All done with the caliper on. Quote
Stu Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 If he wants to do a proper job and clean things up he needs to remove the caliper! You pretty much have everything covered The pins usually seize on the rears the fronts aren't usually too bad Don't forget to copper slip the pins too Quote
Glorian Posted May 14, 2015 Author Posted May 14, 2015 Cheers guys, gonna take them off as i wanna clean the disc up good and everything inside as it rusted on a little the other day and i couldn't move the bike.Will post how it goes. Got a ham sarnie, my set of tools, and my mp3 so i'm good to go Quote
Mr Fro Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 Just one smidgy thing to add - you need to push the pistons back in before you fit the new pads. Keep an eye on the reservoir level when you do this and remove excess fluid if needed. Quote
Glorian Posted May 14, 2015 Author Posted May 14, 2015 Just one smidgy thing to add - you need to push the pistons back in before you fit the new pads. Keep an eye on the reservoir level when you do this and remove excess fluid if needed. Good call, i remember reading about that, Somewhere wrote to take the top off the resevoir and put a towel around it incase it spills? But worried i would miss it and it would soak onto the paint for a couple hours Quote
Fozzie Posted May 14, 2015 Posted May 14, 2015 If you have a big pair of these:http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/webupload/APOWER/DRAPER2013/APOWERLARGE26406_474B-10B.jpgOr anything that opens outward, pump out the pistons a bit, clean what you can see to as good a shine as you can get, insert these, grip very hard and twist the piston in its seat to get at the other grubby bits. Otherwise it turns into a bit of a faff It's just a sure fire way of getting all the grime off. Then push the pistons back in, and you won't risk damaging the caliper seals with a nice clean piston.Also smear a bit of copper grease on the *back* of the pads where it contacts with the piston. I generally smear the pistons in red rubber grease and the back of the pad in copper grease so that when the piston withdraws the metal/rubber contact with the seal is lubricated. Also makes cleaning them later an easier task.But you've got the basics so crack on Quote
Glorian Posted May 14, 2015 Author Posted May 14, 2015 If you have a big pair of these:http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/webupload/APOWER/DRAPER2013/APOWERLARGE26406_474B-10B.jpgOr anything that opens outward, pump out the pistons a bit, clean what you can see to as good a shine as you can get, insert these, grip very hard and twist the piston in its seat to get at the other grubby bits. Otherwise it turns into a bit of a faff It's just a sure fire way of getting all the grime off. Then push the pistons back in, and you won't risk damaging the caliper seals with a nice clean piston.Also smear a bit of copper grease on the *back* of the pads where it contacts with the piston. I generally smear the pistons in red rubber grease and the back of the pad in copper grease so that when the piston withdraws the metal/rubber contact with the seal is lubricated. Also makes cleaning them later an easier task.But you've got the basics so crack on Not seen a set of those before.. But my dad has a lot of random tools so i'll have a dig about!Got my copper grease ready. Guess i'll find out once im in there how grubby it is. My guess. VERY Quote
Dav3y Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 If you get the job done and fancy a rideout or want a hand with the job, I'll be in Colchester on Saturday morning first thing for my second service on my bike. Hope to get away from Colchester Kawasaki around 10ish Quote
Glorian Posted May 15, 2015 Author Posted May 15, 2015 Ok done! Had afternoon off so decided to get on with it..2 problems occured, Couldn't get the piston to go back, eventually got it back with 2 bits of wood and a vice. second i lost one of the spring pins. so using a split pin temporarily.Otherwise it works fine Quote
Joeman Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 Well done, now change the brake fluid and you'll have awesome sharp brakes Quote
klingelton Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 i tend to keep a freezer bag close by. if anything comes off the bike, it goes into the freezer bag, then into a plastic tub. things tend not to get lost. if you're doing a bigger job, you can label the bags with a sharpie as to where they came from. Quote
Glorian Posted May 15, 2015 Author Posted May 15, 2015 Well done, now change the brake fluid and you'll have awesome sharp brakes Changed the fluid a short while ago. Nice and sharp though stopping distance is much shorter haha. Chain is next up Quote
Stu Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 I'm guessing you went with the EBC HH sintered pads? Quote
Stu Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 should have gone for the HH the difference again is amazing Quote
Glorian Posted May 15, 2015 Author Posted May 15, 2015 I've heard they're much better, but less effective when wet/cold? Quote
Stu Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 that can be said about a lot of pads! I have never had trouble with them in the cold or wetI had carbone lorraine pads on the TL before the EBC and with the carbone lorraine you could tell the difference when they was cold or wet you had to use them to get heat in them to make sure they worked but once warm by heck they was good! the EBC's just work all the time I stuck them in the FJR before we went away and I'm glad I did as the total weight I was carrying was around half a ton! and it hauled that arse up no trouble even in the huge down poor we had you may find the GG ones may wear pretty quick compared to HH too but people say HH eat discs but I cant say I have noticed that Quote
Glorian Posted May 15, 2015 Author Posted May 15, 2015 If they wear quickly i'll try some HH next then ! Quote
Throttled Posted May 16, 2015 Posted May 16, 2015 I use these to push the pistons back in, plumbers pliers. http://www.generaltools.com/assets/images/159L.jpgI have wrapped the grips with a bit of material and electric tape to stop them marking the caliper. Quote
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