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Posted

my bike has only its kill switch but that is not connected, i whilst restoring want it for the field, so how do i make it run without the battery and the kill switch??


:cheers:

Posted

you would need to bypass the kill switch


as for the battery some bikes need one to run not sure if yours does or not

Posted

Bypass kill switch (as advised above).


Isolate battery connectors.


Bike should now run OK but, if you switch on any lights, it will probably mis-fire and stop. (Unless the wiring has been modified from new).


Disclaimer: Excessive revs may damage the bike electics/components.


One question though - Why would you want to ride it in a field 'while restoring it'? You are likely to cause more damage.


:scratch:

Posted

i put a wire from the kill switch to the coil will this work (kill the engine) when wanted??

Posted

Depends.


If this effectively is shorting out the breaker, then yes BUT... leaving it in this position for more than a split second could damage the coil winding.


if on the feed side of the coil, you will almost certainly damage the circuit (alternator windings; rectifier; etc.)


Can't you turn the fuel off?


:scratch:

Posted
short B7HS ngk out and long in?? 70's engine

Not a good idea - you should replace like for like (if it's the correct one in the first place).

Posted

well that's what i'm saying, but the bloody spark plugs on amazon are slightly longer the ones i have looked up and have i believe are gt's series i'm bloody confused LOL

Posted
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/suzuki/ts_185_l_m/74-76/picture/spark_plug_ngk/ you should only replace with the same plug a longer one is likely to come into contact with the piston

 

well i know that, but the bike did not cough at all when bumping,, the plug bottom i soaked in petrol too! and still NO COUGH!! the plug i have is registered to the GT suzuki series and the MODERN TS series????






The other thing is there are 3 types of NGK plugs for the TS185

Posted

the 3 type will be different heat ranges i expect but the most common one is the one listed in wemoto link the bike should run on that if its g ot good spark fuel supply and good compression and soaking botom of spark plug in fuel will stop it sparking completely because it will act like its flooded then.so you need to make sure that you have got a good fuel supply with 2 stroke oil as well or damage the engine you need to make sure you have got a good spark at the spark plug by resting the plug against the engine with the cap fitted and you need to check compression,if the bike has been sitting for many years the crank seals might of dried out and be allowing gasses to pass out of crankcase once you have got all 3 of these correct then it should run

Posted

well today i PMSL as the previous owner or the one before him :stupid: had put the coil on loose? so i went to put it on then found there was washers but they were RUBBER hence no spark!!?? so this afternoon i went to see about my carb as when i took it off and tried blowing into it,,,,





I COULDN'T also the carb hoses were ROCK HARD so i asked him to chuck it into a cleaner so for £10 he is going to EVERY SINGLE JET and new hoses for the carb!! so i will pick it up tomorrow afternoon, he kindly gave me a used spark plug to try i laid on the engine and the thing sparked like a sparkler at a bomb fire night!! so washers made of rubber NOT BY ME & CARB NOT TAP WAS BLOCKED!!


so happy

Posted

The mounting washers for the coil should be rubber - They are to help prevent shock/vibration damage. What is obviously missing is the earth wire from the coil body (connector washer/tag should be just under the mounting nut) to the frame earth. On the bike I had (many years ago) this ran up to the battery earth stud on the frame.


:cheers:

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