jedibiker Posted July 3, 2020 Author Posted July 3, 2020 @jedibiker fork specs. Do you know if there are any torque settings for reassembly? cheersGive up. No matter what I do the pictures are the wrong way. I blame great thanks, still printed it ok.. cheers.. I find phone pics do that, have to crop it or take shot in different setting 4/3 etc Quote
JRH Posted July 3, 2020 Posted July 3, 2020 Do you know if there are any torque settings for reassembly? cheersGive up. No matter what I do the pictures are the wrong way. I blame great thanks, still printed it ok.. cheers.. I find phone pics do that, have to crop it or take shot in different setting 4/3 etc If you need anything else I have the Haynes manual for 650 and 1250. Quote
jedibiker Posted July 3, 2020 Author Posted July 3, 2020 Give up. No matter what I do the pictures are the wrong way. I blame great thanks, still printed it ok.. cheers.. I find phone pics do that, have to crop it or take shot in different setting 4/3 etc If you need anything else I have the Haynes manual for 650 and 1250. great thanks, i got an online manual for the disassembly and a few video guides. Just wasnt sure about torques. I may be all needy tomorrow when doing it lol Quote
jedibiker Posted July 3, 2020 Author Posted July 3, 2020 think its sign.Sportsbike shop not even sent oil, only 1 seal came as I read site wrong, it said 2 but meant you need 2. all delivery people keep delaying times..Honestly wish id not bothered, haha.. happy weekend all. Quote
Guest Swagman Posted July 3, 2020 Posted July 3, 2020 Don’t forget to crack the bolts loose before you remove them from the bike, especially the one in the bottom of the legs they can be awkward. Quote
jedibiker Posted July 4, 2020 Author Posted July 4, 2020 Don’t forget to crack the bolts loose before you remove them from the bike, especially the one in the bottom of the legs they can be awkward. defo buddy. Quote
Guest Swagman Posted July 4, 2020 Posted July 4, 2020 Don’t forget to crack the bolts loose before you remove them from the bike, especially the one in the bottom of the legs they can be awkward. defo buddy. Best of luck ,hope it goes without problems. Quote
jedibiker Posted July 4, 2020 Author Posted July 4, 2020 defo buddy.Best of luck ,hope it goes without problems. well. one shock top cap stuck, bolt shearing off, so had it in a vice and had to get a smaller socket on to get lose. so looks like shit.Oil is black. only 300ml ish come out, manual says 469mm.springs come out with tight pitch to top, but manual says to bottom.. so any advice? cheers Quote
jedibiker Posted July 4, 2020 Author Posted July 4, 2020 i really need help.putting 1 fork back together. and it won't do it.Before i put the seals in the tube moves up fine to cover the spring and metal tube. as soon as seals are in, dust cover on, the damper bolt seems to lift with tube and springs stays few inches from top of tube, hence cant fit metal tube in. and it seems to lock.followed the diagrams and videos to the letter. so no idea what the feck im doing wrong, it shouldn't take this long lol Quote
WD-40 Posted July 4, 2020 Posted July 4, 2020 Did you figure it out? Have you put the damper bolt in? Once the damper bolt is in and tight the damper won't be able to move. On my bike you have to hold the damper still to tighten the bolt. If you don't hold it still it just turns when you turn the bolt. The common technique for holding it is to sharpen the end of a broom handle and jam it in the top of the damper to hold the damper still and then tighten the bolt Also if you let the fork stanchion fully bottom out the fork will lock together, don't know if that's what you're describing here but if you are you have to make sure that it doesn't fully bottom out Quote
jedibiker Posted July 5, 2020 Author Posted July 5, 2020 Did you figure it out? Have you put the damper bolt in? Once the damper bolt is in and tight the damper won't be able to move. On my bike you have to hold the damper still to tighten the bolt. If you don't hold it still it just turns when you turn the bolt. The common technique for holding it is to sharpen the end of a broom handle and jam it in the top of the damper to hold the damper still and then tighten the bolt Also if you let the fork stanchion fully bottom out the fork will lock together, don't know if that's what you're describing here but if you are you have to make sure that it doesn't fully bottom out Holding it still is an issue without a tool, but luckily after 4 hours i got an imact driver and sorted it.. everyone here vanished lol Quote
Stu Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 Did you figure it out? Have you put the damper bolt in? Once the damper bolt is in and tight the damper won't be able to move. On my bike you have to hold the damper still to tighten the bolt. If you don't hold it still it just turns when you turn the bolt. The common technique for holding it is to sharpen the end of a broom handle and jam it in the top of the damper to hold the damper still and then tighten the bolt Also if you let the fork stanchion fully bottom out the fork will lock together, don't know if that's what you're describing here but if you are you have to make sure that it doesn't fully bottom out Holding it still is an issue without a tool, but luckily after 4 hours i got an imact driver and sorted it.. everyone here vanished lol Thats the thing with forums they are only helpful when people are about It sounds like you have sorted it now though Quote
jedibiker Posted July 5, 2020 Author Posted July 5, 2020 Did you figure it out? Have you put the damper bolt in? Once the damper bolt is in and tight the damper won't be able to move. On my bike you have to hold the damper still to tighten the bolt. If you don't hold it still it just turns when you turn the bolt. The common technique for holding it is to sharpen the end of a broom handle and jam it in the top of the damper to hold the damper still and then tighten the bolt Also if you let the fork stanchion fully bottom out the fork will lock together, don't know if that's what you're describing here but if you are you have to make sure that it doesn't fully bottom out Holding it still is an issue without a tool, but luckily after 4 hours i got an imact driver and sorted it.. everyone here vanished lol Thats the thing with forums they are only helpful when people are about It sounds like you have sorted it now though confused why the springs had tight end at the top when manual says to put them at the bottom, I fear doin as per manual will have crap result Quote
Stu Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 Holding it still is an issue without a tool, but luckily after 4 hours i got an imact driver and sorted it.. everyone here vanished lol Thats the thing with forums they are only helpful when people are about It sounds like you have sorted it now though confused why the springs had tight end at the top when manual says to put them at the bottom, I fear doin as per manual will have crap result They may have already been replaced by previous owner and not be the stock ones! Quote
jedibiker Posted July 5, 2020 Author Posted July 5, 2020 Thats the thing with forums they are only helpful when people are about It sounds like you have sorted it now though confused why the springs had tight end at the top when manual says to put them at the bottom, I fear doin as per manual will have crap result They may have already been replaced by previous owner and not be the stock ones! ah,, possibly.. so short bit needs to be at top? quick fix Quote
Stu Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 confused why the springs had tight end at the top when manual says to put them at the bottom, I fear doin as per manual will have crap result They may have already been replaced by previous owner and not be the stock ones! ah,, possibly.. so short bit needs to be at top? quick fix I know some aftermarket springs have the tighter wound coils at the top I have just fitted new springs to a BMW f800 gs and they are at the top Personally I would be fitting them back how they came out as they may well be aftermarket Quote
TimR Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 confused why the springs had tight end at the top when manual says to put them at the bottom, I fear doin as per manual will have crap result They may have already been replaced by previous owner and not be the stock ones! ah,, possibly.. so short bit needs to be at top? quick fix See if you can see a manufacturer name on them .. Quote
Guest Swagman Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 I really don’t think it matters which way you have them as long as they are both the same way. Quote
TimR Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 I really don’t think it matters which way you have them as long as they are both the same way. Depends if they are progressive springs or not . Quote
Stu Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 I really don’t think it matters which way you have them as long as they are both the same way. Depends if they are progressive springs or not . Why? You're not changing the way the force works on the spring I would have though it would be more of how they actually fit in the forks for say locating points than if they are progressive or not because how could you explain that on my bike the narrow coils go to the bottom but my mates F800 the narrow coils are at the top and they are both hyperpro progressive springs Quote
jedibiker Posted July 5, 2020 Author Posted July 5, 2020 I really don’t think it matters which way you have them as long as they are both the same way. Depends if they are progressive springs or not . Why? You're not changing the way the force works on the spring I would have though it would be more of how they actually fit in the forks for say locating points than if they are progressive or not because how could you explain that on my bike the narrow coils go to the bottom but my mates F800 the narrow coils are at the top and they are both hyperpro progressive springs these are the same width but tighter one end. I was going to put back in same way until i saw manual. But as it rode ok ish i think il whip em off and swap springs around.take it i cant do it on the bike to save half hr? Quote
Stu Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 these are the same width but tighter one end. I was going to put back in same way until i saw manual. But as it rode ok ish i think il whip em off and swap springs around.take it i cant do it on the bike to save half hr? When I say narrower I mean less gap between the coils wrong wording on my part its actually called wound tighter Its entirely up to you if you take them out and swap them or not but if they fit in fine and sit properly then leave them if you want I would say seating is more important than orientation Quote
Guest Swagman Posted July 5, 2020 Posted July 5, 2020 I really don’t think it matters which way you have them as long as they are both the same way. Depends if they are progressive springs or not . Doesn’t matter either way, my Fazer has progressivel forks and when I changed springs they instructed You to turn them opposit to Oem ones. Quote
jedibiker Posted July 6, 2020 Author Posted July 6, 2020 When I say narrower I mean less gap between the coils wrong wording on my part its actually called wound tighter Its entirely up to you if you take them out and swap them or not but if they fit in fine and sit properly then leave them if you want I would say seating is more important than orientation lol sorry. they sit fine. but as you say if they are newer springs and should be other way around I wonder if the spring will perform the same. in a way it should but with the tight bit at the top the strong part of the spring is at the bottom. in my head it shouldnt matter new progressive do seem to go tight way to top. Quote
jedibiker Posted July 6, 2020 Author Posted July 6, 2020 I really don’t think it matters which way you have them as long as they are both the same way. Depends if they are progressive springs or not . Doesn’t matter either way, my Fazer has progressivel forks and when I changed springs they instructed You to turn them opposit to Oem ones.which may have happened with mine if someone fitted new springs, and they put tight to the top. as these springs need alot of preload Im thinking either they are proper Suzuki or someone put crap new springs in, oil was so black it must have been a while ago. Quote
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