VT700 Shadow

[linuxrob]

All money well spent, good work and a pleasant read. Got yourself a good un there.

[Guest Swagman]

Now, this is embarrassing.

Fitted the new fuel filter, had to bypass the tap because it was faulty and can't be open to replace the seals.

All well and fitted.

Tried to start it. Given it a good crank to get the petrol to the carbs.

result.. Fakall

The stupid engine refuses to work.

I was trying to avoid removing the carbs and give them a good clean because some parts are fitted using factory settings and if I take them out I will be stuffed

So, after a few more attempts, it crossed my mind that it could be flooded, 1 plug out and it was dry.

a few more tries and still nothing.

So, carbs to be taken out.

HOW DAFACK!!!!!! Do you remove those stupid things????

Stuck from the top on the air intakes and in the bottom the connectors to the cylinders.

Workshop manual says to do exactly as I did, remove the throttle cables, the choke cable, loosen up the bottom connectors and remove the carbs all together.

Yeah right...

tenor.gif

 

How come it stopped working after you changed the fuel filter, it ran perfectly on the run up from London, did you try pressurising the tank to force fuel through the new filter, is it pumped or gravity fed fuel system if gravity fed it may be the fuel filter not suitable for it.

[husoi]

Now, this is embarrassing.

Fitted the new fuel filter, had to bypass the tap because it was faulty and can't be open to replace the seals.

All well and fitted.

Tried to start it. Given it a good crank to get the petrol to the carbs.

result.. Fakall

The stupid engine refuses to work.

I was trying to avoid removing the carbs and give them a good clean because some parts are fitted using factory settings and if I take them out I will be stuffed

So, after a few more attempts, it crossed my mind that it could be flooded, 1 plug out and it was dry.

a few more tries and still nothing.

So, carbs to be taken out.

HOW DAFACK!!!!!! Do you remove those stupid things????

Stuck from the top on the air intakes and in the bottom the connectors to the cylinders.

Workshop manual says to do exactly as I did, remove the throttle cables, the choke cable, loosen up the bottom connectors and remove the carbs all together.

Yeah right...

tenor.gif

 

How come it stopped working after you changed the fuel filter, it ran perfectly on the run up from London, did you try pressurising the tank to force fuel through the new filter, is it pumped or gravity fed fuel system if gravity fed it may be the fuel filter not suitable for it.

 

Pumped and the pump is working.

Got it to work earlier on idle, well kinda, and dies if I roll the throttle

Found out that some idiot has fiddle with the factory settings and changed the 2 pilot screws (one each carb). one had 2 1/2 turns the other was on 3 1/2.

Now I did something that I don't have a clue and the poor bike doesn't start

If I roll the throttle it spins a bit faster bu just doesn't start.

Left it for a while just to make sure that if it's flooded it will dry then will give it another go.

Just check the manual and need to readjust the 2 pilot screws...

[Guest Swagman]

Now, this is embarrassing.

Fitted the new fuel filter, had to bypass the tap because it was faulty and can't be open to replace the seals.

All well and fitted.

Tried to start it. Given it a good crank to get the petrol to the carbs.

result.. Fakall

The stupid engine refuses to work.

I was trying to avoid removing the carbs and give them a good clean because some parts are fitted using factory settings and if I take them out I will be stuffed

So, after a few more attempts, it crossed my mind that it could be flooded, 1 plug out and it was dry.

a few more tries and still nothing.

So, carbs to be taken out.

HOW DAFACK!!!!!! Do you remove those stupid things????

Stuck from the top on the air intakes and in the bottom the connectors to the cylinders.

Workshop manual says to do exactly as I did, remove the throttle cables, the choke cable, loosen up the bottom connectors and remove the carbs all together.

Yeah right...

tenor.gif

 

How come it stopped working after you changed the fuel filter, it ran perfectly on the run up from London, did you try pressurising the tank to force fuel through the new filter, is it pumped or gravity fed fuel system if gravity fed it may be the fuel filter not suitable for it.

 

Pumped and the pump is working.

Got it to work earlier on idle, well kinda, and dies if I roll the throttle

Found out that some idiot has fiddle with the factory settings and changed the 2 pilot screws (one each carb). one had 2 1/2 turns the other was on 3 1/2.

Now I did something that I don't have a clue and the poor bike doesn't start

If I roll the throttle it spins a bit faster bu just doesn't start.

Left it for a while just to make sure that if it's flooded it will dry then will give it another go.

Just check the manual and need to readjust the 2 pilot screws...

 

Sounds like fuel starvation, has it got drain screws on the float bowls If so try loosening them to see if fuel comes out,

[husoi]

well... I'm an idiot!!

At least now I know that the cutoff button works

I probably touch it wen I was trying to make it work and didn't notice.

That's my official excuse and I'm sticking with it

Back to working fine at idle but dies when I accelerate.

more searching on order

The chrome painting is going ok so far

[husoi]

Regarding the gauge and clock casings

Coat 11 on all 3, that's as much I managed to get out of the can

Looks pretty cool.

Now wait at least 24hr (which would be tomorrow at 19:30) so Monday afternoon will be doing the lacquer.

[husoi]

Back to the carbs.

Took them off again. Decided to get a carb cleaner, there is a deal on Ebay for 3 cans of STP for just over £10.

The bits are all on a wee box and once the STP arrives will be cleaning the parts and the carb body.

There is a repair kit on banggod for less than £8 each which compared with $50 on US seems to be a good deal, although is probably chinese and built with a stone ax

The opinions diverge, some say that I should replace the jets and all the other brass bits while some say that a good clean will do the trick.

Because I'm soooooooo clever, I took the carbs appart and forgot to make a note of the 132 hose connections

Now I need to get a diagram of the hose connections so I don't put vacuum on air connection.

On the plus side, I'm becoming an expert on removing the carbs from the Shadow As usual, honda never made things easy and removing those things will mean having your fingers bitten 12 times a minute.

Worst case scenario I'll have to remove the carbs again and replace the jets...

[Tiggie]

there is a deal on Ebay for 3 cans of STP for just over £10.

 

Good deal, I'll have a look for that

[husoi]

Another mod

Just received the new LED instrument lights. The old ones were on end of life and casing was getting the projection of the filament.

 

New ones are 1w power ice white but within a choice of colours.

Comparing the 2 the difference is obvious

 

The new look on the Odo with LED

 

Fully assembled LED lights

[husoi]

I hope someone from Hycote can explain this...

Started the clear lacquer on the casings.

As soon I hit with first coat something went smelly

From a dull chrome I went to a stupid grey

I followed all the instructions from hycote website and the can (They are the same).

waited 2 and half days instead the 24hr min they say.

Now I got this. Unless a miracle happens I can't see getting chrome out of this.

5 coats in. Going to email the seller asking for an explanation...

[Guest]

I hope someone from Hycote can explain this...

Started the clear lacquer on the casings.

As soon I hit with first coat something went smelly

From a dull chrome I went to a stupid grey

I followed all the instructions from hycote website and the can (They are the same).

waited 2 and half days instead the 24hr min they say.

Now I got this. Unless a miracle happens I can't see getting chrome out of this.

5 coats in. Going to email the seller asking for an explanation...

 

Mislabelled cans?

[husoi]

Good question.

Unfortunately the chrome was visible and the clear is properly clear.

It must have been some idiotic chemical reaction that screwed up the paint.

[Guest]

https://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/316615-Chrome-paint-problem?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=11f1cad01257439b0d094223e40158fb1da11a6e-1599510771-0-Afg7uKA95ZN01iBvDOxIOoC-qo6-yWwToorS4_SgdEaIWIYIOt0HMhGhCeH7p9_n3FucfKIkcowyK7XpGVqrLTjCSrWgelcfXd6sxIY94nXU__eVWez-WItvBBk_ac9krc2GMxlcvutI2gHB7Q0OJOa6z37a3jk916kbY_O5GpAm2Kud37DqlPr2tDwggqqgU-ICabvAucYtgEhzD_m5o19IPHr4VV62luIs3FkqLy-NY1SBKofvBqHM-uWw55uJIhHLg9xnNAiyoT8SEqfmSTFjN8fWPj1kG8oYvtSSzedMUgLtABwcF-DVWgweOPNCWf1u3Xb2u0KoKBtRW7_JN5JmB1wVZIR7aVQL1AmDJbEbxoa5RNJIF8xTyYpzSwVIF79v14e6BJ53CCOns_ywKks

Looks a common problem. Some ideas to try on this thread

[husoi]

https://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/316615-Chrome-paint-problem?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=11f1cad01257439b0d094223e40158fb1da11a6e-1599510771-0-Afg7uKA95ZN01iBvDOxIOoC-qo6-yWwToorS4_SgdEaIWIYIOt0HMhGhCeH7p9_n3FucfKIkcowyK7XpGVqrLTjCSrWgelcfXd6sxIY94nXU__eVWez-WItvBBk_ac9krc2GMxlcvutI2gHB7Q0OJOa6z37a3jk916kbY_O5GpAm2Kud37DqlPr2tDwggqqgU-ICabvAucYtgEhzD_m5o19IPHr4VV62luIs3FkqLy-NY1SBKofvBqHM-uWw55uJIhHLg9xnNAiyoT8SEqfmSTFjN8fWPj1kG8oYvtSSzedMUgLtABwcF-DVWgweOPNCWf1u3Xb2u0KoKBtRW7_JN5JmB1wVZIR7aVQL1AmDJbEbxoa5RNJIF8xTyYpzSwVIF79v14e6BJ53CCOns_ywKks

Looks a common problem. Some ideas to try on this thread

 

You would think that from 2008 the manufacturers would have made it work...

Still some interesting ideas.

[husoi]

I should have gone for this one

[husoi]

Well. not all is lost.

Raised a complaint with sprayster about the chrome turning grey and after sending the photos and reference for the batches they offered to send me another can of chrome and advised that I shouldn't use the lacquer over the chrome.

Now, this is completely different from what the manufacturer and sprayster website advises so I made the point in telling them that maybe they want to consider removing the misleading information.

Once I receive the new can of chrome will be making a test with something completely different.

On a small bit of plastic (same as the casings) Will be using water based floor varnish and see what happens.

watch this space

[husoi]

While I wait for the parts for the carbs I finished repairing the instruments lights

From this

 

to this

[husoi]

YYEEYY Got the carb cleaner.

For some odd reason instead of the ordered 3 X 500ml STP carb cleaner got 4 X 400ml Mannol 9970 carb cleaner.

Reading the reviews don't think Mannol is a downgrade from STP.

As long it gets the job done I don't really care about it

Edited September 10, 2020 by husoi

[husoi]

Happy days

This is the carb cleaner I got.

 

I have to say, it is impressive. It cleaned the carb body and small parts pretty well and minimal effort.

Only needed a toothbrush. no I haven't used mine or missus one , I always have a few cheap ones, like 5 for £1 for these cleaning jobs.

If you look closely even the spring is sparkly clean.

Y will need to be careful or the jet will splash back and you get a cleaner shower.

I've used a metal bowl, the ones you get for feeding the dog. Sprayed the carb with the can until it got empty then used the brush to give it a in depth clean.

A decorator brush, the one I used first, is ok but because the bristles are long it doesn't clean as the brush.

The cleaning liquid will lose its strength after a while so you don't want to be interrupting the process.

The most important feature on Mannol cleaner is that opposite to STP doesn't attack the plastic bits.

I never used this type of product so I can't compare.

But I'me very happy with the result.

[husoi]

Now carbs are clean, got new vacuum and air hoses, found out that a couple are cracked so for the sake of £14 for 2m of hoses better do the complete revamp

The casings are back to matte chrome Spraysters have sent me 2 new cans of chrome alike spray, this will do for now until I find a solution.

While I'm waiting for the rest of the parts for the carbs I have replaced all the instrument lights to LED's. brighter and from 3w to 0.5w per bulb being drained from the battery.

Next step is to assemble everything, this will leave only the carbs and it will be ready for action