Electrical Panel

[onesea]

I am looking to tidy up some wiring on the boat, presently it looks like a snakes gangbang.
 

2 core wires with connections all coming in to go to switchboard and instruments equipment etc.

However in certain areas over time wires have been cut and changed etc.

 

I  found tidied the earth fault and replaced the existing chocolate blocks with Wago Terminal blocks.

 

Easy to use and operate, I have found mounts for them so they will become fixed.
https://uk.farnell.com/wago/221-505/mounting-carrier-white-5cond-tb/dp/2990181

 

However my next challenge is changing the switchboard and sorting other wiring for which I need to join lots of wires.  

I am tempted by something like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connectors-CTRICALVER-Universal-Terminal-Connection/dp/B09QKNHPQL/ref=asc_df_B09QKNHPQL/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=570480429005&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3784930315125620693&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006900&hvtargid=pla-1643857430105&psc=1

 

It’s basically for  a “small 12v junction panel”, to connect cables all fused, many line and at the panel.  Space and access is  at a premium so it adds to the challenge.
Another idea is to put these on to a wooden board.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CTRICALVER-Connectors-Conductor-Terminal-Stranded/dp/B0873272R3/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=CTRICALVER&qid=1675249554&sr=8-29

 

Any electricians out there to offer advice.

 

 

[Bender]

If its 12v have you tried kit car fuse boards and switches, there are many

[Davidtav]

I am not an electrician. So just my thoughts. But I do have a boat. And have done similar … the links you posted look neat solutions. But you need to check the load on those cables. Not suitable for a feed to an anchor windlass or an Eberspacher I reckon. Probably ok for most stuff … I like using those Wago connectors. I use them myself. Why not do everything with the Wago connector?  And I think they are waterproof 

[onesea]

35 minutes ago, Bender said:

If its 12v have you tried kit car fuse boards and switches, there are many

The Fuseboard is bought, Blade fuse with lights to say if fuse is blown.  Modern marine switchboard are not only expensive but have circuit breakers and they can be To sensitive IMHO. Alternatively they are cartridge fuses and a PITA.

 

 I have man with CNC Cutting thing that is going to make me a custom switch board, with blade fuses in situ.

Its the wiring behind the scenes I am struggling with.

 

18 minutes ago, Davidtav said:

I am not an electrician. So just my thoughts. But I do have a boat. And have done similar … the links you posted look neat solutions. But you need to check the load on those cables. Not suitable for a feed to an anchor windlass or an Eberspacher I reckon. Probably ok for most stuff … I like using those Wago connectors. I use them myself. Why not do everything with the Wago connector?  And I think they are waterproof 

you know the headache I am face with an old boat and simple wiring, both of which I like. However over time it’s been butchered.

The Wegos I have used I like however the issue is mounting them they are designed to go in boxes.  
 

Boxes get damp and stay damp IMHO,  wiring left open if it gets damp dries and can be sprayed with Wd40.  I would like to screw them onto a panel so I can easily see and spray them.

 

Biggest current is probably the Autopilot 1.5amp ish average peak 3 amp.  Oh and 2 “non essentials” a dinghy pump and vacuum cleaner, laugh but once you have had them on board you won’t go back.

[Davidtav]

15 minutes ago, onesea said:

The Fuseboard is bought, Blade fuse with lights to say if fuse is blown.  Modern marine switchboard are not only expensive but have circuit breakers and they can be To sensitive IMHO. Alternatively they are cartridge fuses and a PITA.

 

 I have man with CNC Cutting thing that is going to make me a custom switch board, with blade fuses in situ.

Its the wiring behind the scenes I am struggling with.

 

you know the headache I am face with an old boat and simple wiring, both of which I like. However over time it’s been butchered.

The Wegos I have used I like however the issue is mounting them they are designed to go in boxes.  
 

Boxes get damp and stay damp IMHO,  wiring left open if it gets damp dries and can be sprayed with Wd40.  I would like to screw them onto a panel so I can easily see and spray them.

 

Biggest current is probably the Autopilot 1.5amp ish average peak 3 amp.  Oh and 2 “non essentials” a dinghy pump and vacuum cleaner, laugh but once you have had them on board you won’t go back.

Well just try those connectors and see. Re evaluate after twelve months. … I’m not actually of the opinion that just because it is a boat everything has to be waterproof. My boat is very dry …the stuff in the links you first posted to look very neat solutions

[Fozzie]

Of the 2 links, the first one with the comb jumper connectors are better. They are also DIN rail mounted, which allows you to buy a small water proof box and use self-tapping screws to attach it. Just make sure to trim the protruding ends of those screws, and then a blob of silicone sealant to keep it dry. That will get it all mounted up and tidy. 

 

To keep water out, make sure your cables are glanded, or again use some silicone at the penetration points. But in either case, make the cables bottom entry into the junction box. 

 

I'm not sure about boats, but I've had panels left outside for years in heavy rain conditions, and never suffer. I've also had a waste heat boiler split a connection, and jet steam onto a nearby temperature safety switch panel I knocked up to satisfy an officious boiler inspector. It was a bit melted, but dry as a bone inside. 

 

[JRH]

As above.

The screw less terminals are very good and are vibration resistant so no loose terminals appearing. 
a lot of industry is moving to that type of terminal and wago do a range that can be mounted on DIN rail.