CBR 125 RW-5 (2005)

[husoi]

Hello everybody.

 

Looking for some help if possible.

 

A friend of mine (real friend, yes I know it's hard do believe I have one) bought one of those machines.

Although against my advice, the idiot, bought it relying on advice of a bunch of morons whom the only thing they know about bikes is that they have 2 wheels.

 

As result the bike has run for a few days and suddenly just gave up.

Yesterday I tried to find what the problem might be on the side of the road.

The condition of the bike is very poor with sign of been standing for some time even if the seller said would have been riding it daily (my arse).

 

The battery cranks up,

The engine changes the tone if you roll the grip.

There is plenty of fuel.

applying the choke doesn't seem to make a difference

one of her "friends" stated the spark plug is okay and there is a spark

 

What I think it might be the problem

Carb needing looked into

Maybe the park plug don't get voltage. had no way to check on the side of the road.

fuel pump faulty/dirty

 

Any advice will be much appreciated

 

PS: Just downloaded the manual for it and the bike will be staying in my garage to be fixed properly.

Pics to follow. I know how much we love our pics  

Edited September 26, 2023 by husoi

[KiwiBob]

Check for spark .. Try a new plug.

 

Whip the carb off and give it o good clean.

 

 

[rennie]

I/We have no experience of that particular bike but we have had several Yam YBR 125's over the years.

They've all been really slow to transition from cold start to running normally.

I think it's a 125 single with carb. thing 

 

with Sue's last YBR start from cold full choke no throttle!

allow to tickover for ages, no throttle! slowly reduce choke over about 5 mins ( hell of a long time)

 

Only when ticking over with no choke try the throttle.

 

once it's been going once in a day it's usually ok to just start and ride away for the rest of the day

[husoi]

I think that having the bike starting daily but not allowing to proper warm up could have been one of the reasons..

 

Will consider both suggestions, and the ones for sure coming up  

[Fozzie]

Currently got one of these, and have owned a couple of others. 

 

Is the choke working? They will not start for love nor money without it, Rennie is right about the really slow to transition. They need to warm up for a few minutes before you can take them off it. 

 

Stupid question, but is the HT lead on the spark plug properly? I remember one where it wasn't quite secure, and the owner had been trying to push start it for ages. I spotted it sitting at the wrong angle after a minute or two of looking about, and it fired right up. 

 

Sticking with the easy stuff first, it was running and stopped. Don't want you to spend money. 

Edited September 26, 2023 by Fozzie
Spelling

[megaross]

Five quid on carbs full of shit or fuel tank is half full of water/ varnish.

[husoi]

Bike started a couple times last weekend in the morning.

When tried to start it in evening, it just refused to work. I think it's afraid of the dark....

 

Ordered the parts I know are needed because they are broken or damaged beyond repair. plus a new gasket set for the carb.

 

E. is thinking about ordering a new set of plastics instead of repairing and spray them. 

Dhgate sell them for just under £400, and you choose the colour you want.

 

[RideWithStyles]

Scared of the dark , must have been mis treated...

Wife cbf in our early tendership did things like that.

 

Sounds silly, its just a sensory thing.

roll the bike forward out of gear a bit say 1/4mtr try to start it, if not roll 6or 9 inchs and try again.

If not try move it while its in first gear and start it again (out of gear or in gear but clutch in if it allows)

Sounds silly but if the sensor isnt quite in the right place if its moved or covered in shite it wont start or even possibly stalls at pick up.

[husoi]

1 hour ago, RideWithStyles said:

Scared of the dark , must have been mis treated...

Wife cbf in our early tendership did things like that.

 

Sounds silly, its just a sensory thing.

roll the bike forward out of gear a bit say 1/4mtr try to start it, if not roll 6or 9 inchs and try again.

If not try move it while its in first gear and start it again (out of gear or in gear but clutch in if it allows)

Sounds silly but if the sensor isnt quite in the right place if its moved or covered in shite it wont start or even possibly stalls at pick up.

Worth the try.

 

thank you

 

PS:

 

Actually, now that you mention it. The bike started when I move it out of the garage... 

Edited October 5, 2023 by husoi

[RideWithStyles]

If its not seeing the sensor or thinks its out of place for start up of the stroke it wont start.

If so take the front sprocket cover off and give the area (even behind the sprocket) a right good and mean RIGHT GOOD CLEAN... poor little fella bunged up with labe and crap...

[husoi]

Will have to replace the chain because there is almost 2in slack in it.

will clean it then.

[RideWithStyles]

Chain looks abit slack from the pictures. Slack should be 15-25mm but if its at the upper end of that that can upset the pick up and first gear slap or sloppy gear changes so keep it at the 15-20 mark.

[husoi]

I haven't found anything with that bike that I would say.

That's fine... 

[RideWithStyles]

I was just gonna say it looks skack.

Also from the pic the shock looks like its worn out.

[husoi]

2 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

I was just gonna say it looks skack.

Also from the pic the shock looks like its worn out.

Shock?

[RideWithStyles]

Ive just seen a suggestion of 25-35mm but that is a newer model. Id hover the 25mark to be safe

[RideWithStyles]

Yes.
The rear tyre is showing signs, looks like shark tooth between the tread at 45 and 75degree angle.

Place your hand on the tyre and cup it gently, Run your hand to and opposite direction of the tyre, when you go towards the engine your fingers and outer palm will drop slightly but when you head back to the back of the tyre(back the way you came) your fingers and outer palm will catch the back tread.

So because the shock is worn out (not controlling damping) when you are cornering the rear will be moving up and down too fast and smacking the tyre tread more so creating the dips and raised back edges.

When the shock is cold its will either be too slow if the spring is stiff and the oil /gas is gone or it will be soft on the rebound.
So when it warms up it and you push down it will pogo back up too fast and either smack the top out, skip up / bobble twice or more after the first push down, like a jelly. It needs to come up once only in a controlled manner not return soo fast that it hits its top out and shakes the bike.

Edited October 5, 2023 by RideWithStyles

[husoi]

AAHHH That  

 

Yeah, don't think she will be inclined to get new tyres just yet.

[RideWithStyles]

12 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

Yes.
The rear tyre is showing signs, looks like shark tooth between the tread at 45 and 75degree angle.

Place your hand on the tyre and cup it gently, Run your hand to and opposite direction of the tyre, when you go towards the engine your fingers and outer palm will drop slightly but when you head back to the back of the tyre(back the way you came) your fingers and outer palm will catch the back tread.

So because the shock is worn out (not controlling damping) when you are cornering the rear will be moving up and down too fast and smacking the tyre tread more so creating the dips and raised back edges.

When the shock is cold its will either be too slow if the spring is stiff and the oil /gas is gone or it will be soft on the rebound.
So when it warms up it and you push down it will pogo back up too fast and either smack the top out, skip up / bobble twice or more after the first push down, like a jelly. It needs to come up once only in a controlled manner not return soo fast that it hits its top out and shakes the bike.

[RideWithStyles]

Not needing to buy tryes yet.

No point buying new tyres when the shock will just kill those set of tyres before they're due, and if the shock has more degradation to go it will do it faster.

Edited October 5, 2023 by RideWithStyles

[husoi]

That will be in the unknown repairs list.

which probably will include air and oil filter.

fork oil definitely will need replaced and who knows what else.

If I was that drunk that I would have bought that thing I would scrap it and get a proper one. 

[RideWithStyles]

Dont bother with 10wt for those forks, a thick 15 or better yet a 20wt, otherwise the front pogos even with those soft springs in.

hargon and yss do sensible priced shocks, nothing fancy just basic road one will do.

[RideWithStyles]

Yep choose unwisely and pay twice is the old saying.

[RideWithStyles]

if the gear change feels sloppy or seems to miss gear (lacking engagement) the chain is too loose.
 

Oh just for more misery its a oil strainer so you're gonna have to take the right side engine case of to do it, spend hour or so picking and scraping the old gasket off and replace with a new one....all bolts are not the same lengths so you need to make sure you put the correct bolt back in, place bolts in criss cross pattern and final torque.

definitely not one of hondas best ideas.

 

Two things, the air filter and oil change is easy. Make sure the oil level check is done with the dip stick sat on top of the case and not screwed in.

[husoi]

10 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

if the gear change feels sloppy or seems to miss gear (lacking engagement) the chain is too loose.
 

Oh just for more misery its a oil strainer so you're gonna have to take the right side engine case of to do it, spend hour or so picking and scraping the old gasket off and replace with a new one....all bolts are not the same lengths so you need to make sure you put the correct bolt back in, place bolts in criss cross pattern and final torque.

definitely not one of hondas best ideas.

 

Two things, the air filter and oil change is easy. Make sure the oil level check is done with the dip stick sat on top of the case and not screwed in.

She will be doing the repairs and maintenance, I'm giving the tools, garage and know how.

Next time ask me to go with her to advise not to buy crap bikes 

 

Chain will be new one (on order already), I don't think the space left for adjustment is enough to get it right and won't last long if it is.

Surprisingly, brakes seem okay with plenty of meat on the pads.

 

Oil level is good and oil doesn't look too bad, although we have no idea how old it is.

Does the kitchen strainer does the trick? 

 

Will check the forks once she starts stripping it. 20w seems a good idea. That's what I use on the Pan and I quit like it. Who doesn't like to feel it stiff?