Troy Posted May 26, 2024 Posted May 26, 2024 (edited) Honda CBR1000rr 2006 The front brake lever travels about 10-15mm before you get a response from the brakes…. I don’t like this feeling. The brake fluid was recently changed but not by me. Any input people? Edited May 26, 2024 by Troy Quote
Simon Davey Posted May 26, 2024 Posted May 26, 2024 (edited) I have the same problem, but it's my own doing. If it's had a fluid change, those callipers may just need bleeding again. I've just been advised to clamp the brake hose of the opposite calliper, to the one you're bleeding. I'm going to give this a try myself. Also, is the brake lever adjustable? Do you have a little numbered wheel at the pivot? Edited May 26, 2024 by Simon Davey Quote
Troy Posted May 26, 2024 Author Posted May 26, 2024 6 minutes ago, Simon Davey said: I have the same problem, but it's my own doing. If it's had a fluid change, those callipers may just need bleeding again. I've just been advised to clamp the brake hose of the opposite calliper, to the one you're bleeding. I'm going to give this a try myself. Also, is the brake lever adjustable? Do you have a little numbered wheel at the pivot? yes, has adjustable levers but no matter what setting I put them in, it’s doesn’t seem to help much. Quote
Simon Davey Posted May 26, 2024 Posted May 26, 2024 (edited) Time to get bleeding. There are a few ways of doing it, but the old fashioned way seems to be the most reliable Get on YouTube Edited May 26, 2024 by Simon Davey Quote
fq-craigus Posted May 27, 2024 Posted May 27, 2024 Bleeding or even give the calipers a clean to make sure pistons are nice and free so that some of your lever travel isn’t the pistons overcoming friction from seals first before bite Quote
Troy Posted December 16, 2024 Author Posted December 16, 2024 Nothing changed to be honest, I’ve just learned to deal with it for now Quote
Simon Davey Posted December 16, 2024 Posted December 16, 2024 (edited) 3 hours ago, Troy said: Nothing changed to be honest, I’ve just learned to deal with it for now Mine turned out to be a warped disk. As the warp passes between the pads, it opens them further than they should be. So every time the lever is pulled, there's excess travel. I didn't find this out until I was hurtling around the hills in Germany, had to brake really hard as we were chasing each other through hairpins, and I noticed the lever pumping. Not the time of year for testing the theory though. Not necessarily your issue, just thought I'd mention it. Edited December 16, 2024 by Simon Davey 3 Quote
Troy Posted December 17, 2024 Author Posted December 17, 2024 (edited) I forgot to mention that I bled the brakes. Only this time I did it myself and also got a second opinion from someone much more experienced than me. I’m 99% certain there is no air in the system. I won’t completely rule out the warped disk. The previous owner could have cause that on a bike like this. It doesn’t lack in stopping performance though…. I’m wondering if it’s just a quirk with the levers Edited December 17, 2024 by Troy Quote
Fender1515 Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 A few years ago a pal of mine had a problem with the amount of travel on front break lever, this was after stripping down the callipers, replacing seals, fitting steel break hoses. We went through the compete bleed process, again, no real improvement. Another pal uses his CBR1000rr for track days, so we asked him for advice, which was, air can get trapped behind the pistons, also in the banjo, solution, push the pistons all the way back into the bores which will dislodge any air pockets. Tie the break lever back hard back to the bar, and secure, cable tie works well, leave it overnight, air rises. He left it for a few days, and it was way better. We did both actions at the same time, so I couldn't say which sorted the problem. 1 Quote
RideWithStyles Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 Some Old even jap bikes had this habit designed into them for leeway and user friendliness at the factory. if you have COMPLETELY throughly cleans every thing inside and out, replaced the consumables (fluid, seals, rings) on the caliper, hoses, mc), sure your not getting any micro leaks where air can get in but liquid cannot and your 100%sure you’ve done it correctly then the only way is to change the hard ware. have you checked the discs and there seating to make sure they are Clean? Is there dirt or old thread lock under the bolt that it has contact with, has a bobbing corroded,loose or too tight? Is the disc true? Is the mc getting tired? Is the spring and seal good and correct? Is the hose and joints good? lots of things to check and difficult to see exactly when taking a posters viewing. Quote
Punts Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 Braided hoses makes a difference, if the bike doesn't have them already. 1 Quote
Troy Posted December 18, 2024 Author Posted December 18, 2024 12 hours ago, Punts said: Braided hoses makes a difference, if the bike doesn't have them already. Has braided lines. Quote
Bender Posted December 18, 2024 Posted December 18, 2024 You should feel a warped disk when braking. Quote
Simon Davey Posted December 19, 2024 Posted December 19, 2024 I only noticed my warped disk under very heavy braking. Quote
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