Fender1515

In addition to the above, I would also swap out the battery, Strip and rebuild callipers, front and back, flush, change hydronic oil, strong chance it will have moisture contamination rub down disks to remove the rust, it will only build up on the pads and cause glazing Check chain for rusted links, probably better to replace, with mileage stated I would guess sprockets should be serviceable You have called out the leaking carb, as your going to pull it apart I would get a full-refurb kit Loosen rear wheel spindle nuts, take out and spindle and regrease check LT, HT, electrickery stuff little critters do love to chew on dem Spray of leccy cleaner in ignition barrel and wd something into seat release lock I guess you will check coolant level and hoses for any signs of leaks, cracks Given the time it's been standing, I might be tempted to use some upper cylinder lubricant before hitting the go button, can help releasing stuck piston rings Take your time, Good luck, I hope you don't find any unwanted surprises

When the "issue" of me having a motorbike last cropped up, i went into think mode, and announced, if I didn't have a bike I would get a sailing boat, end of conversation, that was probably two years ago!

Agreed, the chassis/frame look like a ringer for a Ducati ST, and I really don't like that exhaust. big and butch it might be, to my eyes, it looks like it came out of the bitzer box. The engine fairing and belly pan design doesnt flow together well, not in the the photo. In do like the ergonomics of the seating and the ride position looks good. But for the thick end of £18,000, not for this Yorkshire man. Just my opinion.

Umm, I would have one as gift, just putting it out there, but I cant see my-self getting my hand that far down my pocket, ever!

Thanks for the feedback, I am keen to get up to Applecross, route to Shieldag noted and I am definitely going to ride through the Cairngorms, I have done a lot walking in that area, and would love to explore it again, but without a tent on my back. Have a great trip

First Ride of the year Bike sailed through MOT, love those guys at BSA Tyres and Exhausts, proper bikers garage, the guys do the NC500 most years, which i am going to ride this year, we talked through their experiences stuff., priceless. Then flew through the Peak District and landed in Buxton, with the biggest grin. I love that first first ride of the year, it's like a portal to happy times opens up, always a bit of a challenge getting dialled in tackling Holme Moss Hill, the views are stunning, the condition of the road was not, deep pot holes and road surface very unpredictable. Loads of bikers out, which was good to see,. On route back I had an empty road back up Holme Moss, absolutely nailed it, stopped at the summit just to soak up experience, met with a guy who had recently got a KTM Duke and was clearly loving it. I am not sure I can adequately explain to non-biker friends and family why, as an old git, I still ride bikes, but for me, yesterday said it all. So today I will be accompanying my beloved to a textile fair, she makes stuff, that's the deal, but I wont be in the room, I will be blasting up Holme Moss, win-win. Have fun, stay safeish!

Hi Husoi, And thanks for taking the time to reply, are there any particular roads on the route in addition to Applecross that you know off that have particularly bad road surfaces. Whilst I stared falling of bikes aged 11 school boy scrambling, I am keen to stay upright these days. Thanks,

I am going to ride the NC500 later this year, probably September, from home in West Yorkshire. I have spent some time working, skiing, and walking in Scotland, so I know some stuff, midges, whisky etc. Never been there on a bike. I have found quite a few online guides for motorbike trip, interested in what guides/info others have found useful. I plan to take in all the quirky destinations and not just follow the main NC500 route. Probably two week trip, will be B&B accommodation as too old for camping. Thanks

Brake or a break bleed kit should have a sealed reservoir container, jam jars fall over, gets messy.

Morning all, finished the bike maintenance work yesterday, bike looks and feels well sorted, ready for the MOT next week. Every year it needs more prep work, and it takes me longer, we are both getting older!

I was always going to be a strip down TBO, anyhoows, wasn't a difficult job in the end, just very fiddly, and took time to work out how disassemble, the issue was the rubber cups that fit over the push button had perished and a piece of the rubber jammed into the casing, stopping the button from moving. I have cleaned with electro spray, used silicon to seal it, reassembled and all working fine, happy days! I am always wary working on electrickery bits, much more comfortable with mechanical stuff. every days etc...

Yep. me too, the stony silence bit, i can deal with, dirt in callipers is big no!

Hi Simon, I have just finished calliper strip down and rebuild in prep for the sunny weather riding, umm. So based on my approach: Needed, Replacement seal and rubbers break oil, check the DOT Copper grease break bleed kit, with non-return valve break cleaner spray Toothbrush, wire brushes emery paper 100/120, to rub-off any glazing on disks and pads check torque setting for calliper bolts containers/ tray for the bits depending on condition, I will tend to replace bleed nipples and rubbers. just coz mechanics gloves, many lots of kitchen towel Rags A bucket of tea, barrel of patience knee pads, i am old git I pump the break lever after i have taken out the pads, so the piston is pushed out but not all the way out on the first calliper I am working on, use a piece of wood in the calliper body to stop the pistons coming all the way out, bleed the oil out from the bleed nipple using break lever before i strip down the calliper using the bleed kit, did one side at a time, I use an air pump inserted into to the bleed nipple hole to get the pistons out of the last calliper layout pistons so they go back in same bore check bores for scoring etc proper clean up, to remove break dust and road grime use lots of oil on seals before rebuild copper grease rear of pads, bolts etc for reassembly make sure pistons are fully recessed after rebuild, ask me why i remember this! Bleed up etc Oh, and there is one at the back Remember new pads will take A FEW MILES TO BED IN Least ways, I think that's what I do, Jobs a gooden!

To Strip or not to Strip At the end of last years riding, I am too old for wet and cold stuff, done that. my 2005 BMW K1200s developed an intermittent fault, the left hand indicator switch was only working intermittently, If I used the hazard warning lights, indicator works every time, so confident the problem is with the bar switch unit. Over the last couple of weeks I have been doing the maintenance stuff to get bike ready for the road, yesterday job was sort out the indicator issue. So tried the indicator switch, same old, Being a BMW it's all TORX screw heads, I have a set of drivers, off with clutch bar mount, take off switch outer cover, two internal TORX screws, T8 size, nope, got nothing that fits that, so on internet and order set T6 to T10, £5, no big deal. Back to bike, tried indicator switch again, just for the hell of it, worked every time, really!! So now question is, do I break down the unit and, spray and clean, it's going to be a pain the arse job, but peace of mind. or, do I wing it! Humm!