Guest Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Hi guys and girls. Possibly stupid question. But im a bit of a newbie to this whole mechanical thing.I have a Hornet 600 '06 which i'm pretty sure needs the chain replacing. I've also had about 10,000 miles, so i'm not complaining about it. At the last service (2000 miles ago) I was told that there was tight spots in the chain.I've kind ignored it for a while, and having recently left the bike for 10 days or so, ive come back and it seems a lot worse.. ... So, ill replace it.I've gona to look at Tsubaki or Renthal ones and (im told to replace both sprockets and chain in one go) but I have no idea how many teeth it needs, and whether to have O or X ring.....I'm guessing that different number of teeth will throw the speedo out too, so do I just count mine and get the same or what?And I guess X ring is generally better given its more expensive....Any input would be amazing. Thanks kids Stef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rennie Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Do you want to do it yourself?I use wheelhouse tyres in coleshill, they'll do ride in ride out, costs a bit more but saves on hassle. Their number is in MCN, if you phone first and tell them make, model, year they'll sort you out!If you do want to do it yourself, have you got a manual? or handbook? should tell you in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I have someone who's offered to let me use his garage as i dont have a stand or anything. So yeah, i'd do it myself... and ok, i (for some reason, blonde moment?) didnt think of looking in the owners thingy. Do you want to do it yourself?I use wheelhouse tyres in coleshill, they'll do ride in ride out, costs a bit more but saves on hassle. Their number is in MCN, if you phone first and tell them make, model, year they'll sort you out!If you do want to do it yourself, have you got a manual? or handbook? should tell you in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rennie Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 well good luck, I know others will disagree, but it's one of the jobs I wouldn't do myself, too worried about joining chain properly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 I'll just make sure I check like a million times .... I did my brake lines the other day and spent probably 2 hours checking for air well good luck, I know others will disagree, but it's one of the jobs I wouldn't do myself, too worried about joining chain properly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nigelf Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Although changing sprokets and chain may seem daunting and have a high level of safety awareness required, i always do mine.One thing you will require and this is for most jobs on bikes is the correct tools for the job.A chain splitter can cost 15 quid but the more you spend the better quality you get so i have one that is about 60 quid.breaking the chain is quite easy but the part (understandably) rennie has issues with is the re joining. If you have any doubt try breaking the original chain in a few places and practice re joining that before you do the real chain.the new chain may need to be shortened... remember...M E A S U R E T W I C E C U T O N C Ea torque rench is also advisable ... make sure you get one that covers most of the settins for the bike. rear axle is normaly the highest and as low as 10 or 15 foot pounds for minimum... rear sproket should be torqued down ..NigelOh PS get loads of rags .. its not a clean job!! hint ... clean hands with washing up liquid and a table spoon of sugar... works wonders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Thanks for the advice. Luckilly my friend who said I can use his garage says he has a torque wrench and a splittery thingy. (he used to be a dispatch rider so was servicing his FJ pretty much every weekend)Do you think theres any difference really between an O and an X ring?If it makes any difference, I do kinda thrash it around. Although changing sprokets and chain may seem daunting and have a high level of safety awareness required, i always do mine.One thing you will require and this is for most jobs on bikes is the correct tools for the job.A chain splitter can cost 15 quid but the more you spend the better quality you get so i have one that is about 60 quid.breaking the chain is quite easy but the part (understandably) rennie has issues with is the re joining. If you have any doubt try breaking the original chain in a few places and practice re joining that before you do the real chain.the new chain may need to be shortened... remember...M E A S U R E T W I C E C U T O N C Ea torque rench is also advisable ... make sure you get one that covers most of the settins for the bike. rear axle is normaly the highest and as low as 10 or 15 foot pounds for minimum... rear sproket should be torqued down ..NigelOh PS get loads of rags .. its not a clean job!! hint ... clean hands with washing up liquid and a table spoon of sugar... works wonders Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 when you order you new ones the books have the details in em, so if you phone up for a chain and sprocket set theyll be right for your bike.its not only the right number of teeth but the fitting and the pitch that has to be right, any good bike shop will sort you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Go +2 teeth on the rear sprocket and get a speedohealer, will transform your bike to almost like a new bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigelwood1 Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 If your speedo drive is on the front wheel it won't make any difference...Also a lot of sprockets have the number of teeth stamped on them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handyandy24 Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 go minus 1 tooth on the front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 I'd avoid going down a size on the front if you can help it as it makes the curve of the chain a lot tighter at the front. This can cause your chain to wear out faster than it would with the equivelant extra teeth on the rear (-1 off the front is about the same as +2.5 on the rear!) Some of my mates have -1 AND +2 and they really struggle to keep the front on the deck, but then thats what they wanted the bike to be like, on track where it is smoother these extreme changes really help as the wheel will lift less due to less bumps, on road thats a tad extreme for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Thanks for all the advice guys.I now have a Tsubaki X-Ring chain and Renthal Front+Rear sprockets, and given its winter and I dont really trust myself, ive gone for same number of teeth Now I might have to actually clean the thing >.<http://www.renegadepanda.org/pics/image.php?src=./chain.jpg&percent=0.3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollazuki Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Little tip for ya.Measure twice and all that, make sure adjusters are wound fully in, and fit the chain. Dont use the rivet link, but a removable link, with a fishtail clip.Everyone will be now, but listen on.The strength is in the sideplates, not the clip or rivet, so the strength is the same. The clip must face closed end in the direction of chain travel, but heres the science bit.......Get some setting silicon sealant. Preferably in a red or blue or similar bright colour.Bung some degreaser on a rag and wipe the sideplate and clip.Smear silicon all over it and make it look neat and tidy, but fully covered.You now have an easy to fit, easy to remove chain that is completely safe. My last bike made 200bhp+ on nitro, ran on a Regina chain linked in this way, and had NO issues.Saves on worry, and a chain riveter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Little tip for ya.Measure twice and all that, make sure adjusters are wound fully in, and fit the chain. Dont use the rivet link, but a removable link, with a fishtail clip.Everyone will be now, but listen on.The strength is in the sideplates, not the clip or rivet, so the strength is the same. The clip must face closed end in the direction of chain travel, but heres the science bit.......Get some setting silicon sealant. Preferably in a red or blue or similar bright colour.Bung some degreaser on a rag and wipe the sideplate and clip.Smear silicon all over it and make it look neat and tidy, but fully covered.You now have an easy to fit, easy to remove chain that is completely safe. My last bike made 200bhp+ on nitro, ran on a Regina chain linked in this way, and had NO issues.Saves on worry, and a chain riveter. sorry i dont agree with this you may have had 200+bhp going through it and yeah it worked for you but it doesnt work for everyone my zxr400 had a split pin on the chain then when i did my chain and sprocs i was looking for it to remove the chain and it had already gone walkies!!! and the side plate was just holding on personally i would use the right tools and the proper link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollazuki Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Try must run what you brung drag racers.... you fit longer drop outs to ya swing arm, and add an extra length of chain when racing, then remove it back on the road. Works every time. The removable link is the proper item, and if used correctly, and ONLY ONCE, its perfectly safe.If you lost one on a zxr400 then it was either used more than once or incorectly fitted.Each to their own tho...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Voodoo Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Have to agree with Stu there, I've had two or three go walkies. I only use them to fit the chain, then ride down to the bike shop and get them to finish it off with a rivet link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollazuki Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Dab of silicon, never move again till you peel it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Try must run what you brung drag racers.... you fit longer drop outs to ya swing arm, and add an extra length of chain when racing, then remove it back on the road. Works every time. The removable link is the proper item, and if used correctly, and ONLY ONCE, its perfectly safe.If you lost one on a zxr400 then it was either used more than once or incorectly fitted.Each to their own tho...... it could have been removed before i dont know it had about 5 owners before me chain was well and truly f**k*d aswell but when i found the link and just pulled the side plate off without force i just choose to do it right everytime better safe then sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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