Voodoo

Like time no see Voodoo how you keeping? Yeah good thanks. Haven't really used my bike that much over the last year or so, but did go to Brittany on it last year. I see you've got an FJR nowadays, do you still ride like you've stole it?

If the summer weather eventually turns up I'll be out and about some weekends

Take the easy road http://www.iwantoneofthose.com/merch-toys/doctor-who-ride-in-dalek-red/10427818.html

That is an epic journey, your going to love it. There's a place just outside Reims that might be worth a visit. Its on the D27 (see the photo below) http://www.buildir.co.uk/uploads/reims.JPG When you go to Monaco watch out for speed traps, they're very keen. I passed loads in the tunnels. Also whilst your in the French Rivera there's a superb little village called EZE which is definately worth a visit. Its also worth mentioning Nice old town and Antibes. If your going to Rouen, there's a little village just outside called Anneville-Ambourville which has a little church with the best looking gravestone I've ever seen. http://www.buildir.co.uk/uploads/Anneville2.JPG http://www.buildir.co.uk/uploads/Anneville1.JPG Can't wait to see more videos from your journey.

I hate it when they do that, or with cars they list the mileage as say 105 so when you do a search for less than 100,000 miles it comes up.

How much do you actually want to pay, because I've found quite a few within a few minutes between £1999-£2500? Here are the details if your interested £2300 - gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/triumph-speed-triple/1020611274 £2200 - gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/triumph-speed-triple-t509/1020953973 £1999 - gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/triumph-daytona-speed-triple-one-off-custom-not-a-fazer-firestorm-bandit-sv/1020208754 £2195 - gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/triumph-t509-speed-triple/1020201900 £1999 - ukbike.com/pulborough/triumph-speed-triple-955i/sn7052205/ £1950 - ukbike.com/doncaster/triumph-speed/kv0178082/ £2010 - ukbike.com/grimsby/triumph-street-triple-street/sn6812127/ Gumtree has about 20 or so listed at under £2500. The last one in the list above was listed yesterday.

None of the above, just keep looking for something that's the right price. What I've noticed when I buy bikes or cars is that "Sod's Law" applies. This means when your not quite ready to buy and are just looking there seems to be loads you'd be interested in, and yet when you are ready you can't find a single one at the right price. Best tip I can give you to get the best price is (obviously try ebay etc...) but try typing the bike and model in to google including the words "for sale" and then start looking from page 3 onwards. It takes effort and time but you'll find the little dealers whose websites are low in the rankings but also have some great deals. Alternatively, open up google maps to the size of area your prepared to travel and just type "motorcycle dealers", and then go straight to their websites.

Lol, what about the Satnav?

I wear specs all the time except when I'm on the bike. Used to use them on the bike too but I got tired of faffing about putting my helmet on and taking it off. Also snapped loads of arms which were not cheap so nowadays I just use contacts whilst riding. If you think contacts are expensive try a company called Daysoft, someone mentioned them on this forum ages ago and I've used them ever since. They are less than half of what I pay at the opticians and they have loads of different ones so I imagine you'd find some that are suitable.

I use Bilt & Hammer Auto Wheels for getting off brake dust, it quite expensive and I must admit, mainly use it on my car but absolutely nothing else works as well.

Apparently you just disconnect the speedo to derestrict. Anyway more to the point Stu, you know you want one! (just don't get a pre 2008, unless you want to cock about with a power commander)

Lol, if it's not what Stu said, try adjusting the handle bars (if they can be adjusted) and sometimes adjusting the clutch and brake levers can make a huge difference, certainly did for my bikes.

It could be as simple as a fuse or as difficult as finding a needle in a haystack. If it were me I'd check the fuses first and if that all fails, I'd then take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

One thing I've heard a few people say is how the BMW S1000rr is quicker and I think this mistaken belief is because MCN wrote an article where they tested a ZZR1400, Suzuki Hayabusa and S1000rr. What they didn't mention was the ZZR and Hayabusa are restricted to 176mph but the BMW isn't and so it can reach 178mph, hence they said the BMW is the quickest. Take off the restriction and the BMW is left for dead at top end. Obviously in the real world this is completely irrelevant, but if you'd really like to see which is the best at accelerating then have a look at this video ">

How paranoid are you lot , I think its just some debris on the road that's caused it (probably a screw head).

Out of all the problems I've ever had with cars or bikes its never been because of engine wear, its either been electrical or wheel bearings or fuel pumps etc.... but never have I had to replace anything in the engine with the exception of clutch plates in an RD350 which only had 5k on the clock anyway. Many years ago when Performance Bikes was the best bike mag they took an old CBR600 which hadn't had the oil changed for the previous 30-40K miles and opened up the engine and measured all the internals for wear. Considering how many miles it had done they found it was in perfect condition.

Surely you mean every 5k Nope, definitely mean 50k, but to be fair I often change the oil filter at the same time too.

Exactly, I even do it if the bike hasn't finished drinking the last lot of oil.

I change the oil in mine every 50,000 miles no matter if it needs it or not

Not sure what your like at getting your hands dirty, but if it was me I'd take the shock off first, clean it up and grease it and see it that makes a difference. Like eastanglianbiker says, it could be seized linkages. The most difficult bit is raising the rear of the bike off the ground (without using a paddock stand) unless its got a centre stand of course, which I doubt. Failing that my next step would be to look for another shock. There is a secondhand shock on ebay at the moment for £50 plus £15 delivery, although you don't know if that's knackered too, so I would be tempted to get one of the reconditioned ones for about £100. Just out of interest though, why did they think its knackered, is it because its just bouncing back up or is it not rising back up at all, or is it because they couldn't adjust it?

A lot of bikes do that, but I always thought its as you first turn the key on, and then after a few seconds it settles back down (before you start the engine). In other words it wouldn't be doing it whilst you were riding. Obviously I'm no expert and could be completely wrong but it would seem a little stupid to me that the manufacturers turn the rev counter into a diagnostic computer and then leave it like that until the problems fixed. If it were my bike, I'd take off the clocks and check the connections behind and see if that makes any difference before I started spending money. If that makes no difference, then I'd probably go along the route of fixing the temp gauge first because they are quite simplistic in the way they work, and I suspect its related somehow. With the temp gauge its quite easy to check the sensor and thermostat (without replacing them) which would then eliminate them as a problem, which would then leave either the wiring or the actual gauge. You could then test the wiring with a multi-meter and you'd then know if its either the gauge or the wiring. Again I'm no expert, just tight fisted, so I always start with the least expensive option. Whilst your checking stuff, the EXUP valve is also quite easy to check if its seized. I'm assuming you know where its located (on the exhaust under the engine) and there should be some cables going to it which turn it. I also assume it should open and close the valve as soon as you turn the keys on (before the engine has started) which you should hear, but you should also be able to see movement.

Sounds to me like a loose connection or water ingress in one of the connectors. Firstly I'd wait until its dry and then start checking the connectors one by one.

I can't see it being the main jet needle if you haven't touched it. This is a bit of a long shot but it happened to me once and that is just check the throttle assembly is located correctly. Not sure what the exact name of it is, but where the throttle cable attaches to the slider in the top of the carb. I once managed to fit mine incorrectly which was the equivalent of keeping the throttle fully open. I never realised what I'd done until I bump started it!

Are you sure its not a spoof email trying to obtain your details?

That looks like the wire to the side stand cut off switch The only oil that will be near that will be excess spray from when you oil your chain. The pipe to the right of it is an overflow pipe, which might leak something, but that's what its there for.