Jump to content

Bike performance possibly restricted? - Carbs off for a look


chrisgatguis
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,


bit of a strange one, I've got a GS 500 which as we know is no rocket however its been fast enough for me having past my test only 5 months ago..


however, my friend has just bought a ER5, hes only got a A2 license so he's had it restricted by the dealer to 33bhp..


Apparently he's had nearly 100 out of his restricted bike.


I've got to about 90 before and it doesn't feel that there is that much left..


My question is, is it possible to identify if the bike has been restricted? and would it be shown on any documents i.e. V5 doc etc?


Does anyone know what performance I should be getting if the bike was standard, I've read of a top speed of 115 mph but as it stands I can't imagine it could acheive that?


thanks

chris

Edited by chrisgatguis
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, i'm thinking more of the guy i bought the bike off may have had it restricted, but rather than tell me when i bought it just sold it on as standard possibly?


Does anyone know what the restrictor is like on a GS?

 


you would need to look in the airbox and in the carbs, but unless you have a pic to compare to, it would be worthless.



generally its plastic tubes and large washers that stop the carbs rising fully, but i've heard that the gs has blades? in the airbox... probably to do simlar and restrict air flow..



http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=164329

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers for the replies..


I've found out it can be a combination of slides (or 'Pistons' in the Haynes) in the carbs which has more holes in, apparently - more holes = less of a vacuum therefore the slide doesn't move as far, AND washers between carb / engine block....


I've come a cropper and just realised that my Haynes isn't the right one.


Does anyone know how to remove the throttle cable? Unlike my Haynes it has two cables (one return) rather than just the one.


The Cable goes round a rotating pulley, so it seems i can't easily disconnect it?


Heres a pic:

IMG00146.jpg.048f1cfa92051e114630e8e185860b51.jpg

Top of both cables, (actually the same cable joined together) - goes round a 'pulley' below which is attatched to the carb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers for the replies..


I've found out it can be a combination of slides (or 'Pistons' in the Haynes) in the carbs which has more holes in, apparently - more holes = less of a vacuum therefore the slide doesn't move as far, AND washers between carb / engine block....


I've come a cropper and just realised that my Haynes isn't the right one.


Does anyone know how to remove the throttle cable? Unlike my Haynes it has two cables (one return) rather than just the one.


The Cable goes round a rotating pulley, so it seems i can't easily disconnect it?


Heres a pic:

 


can you get by without removing it?


it looks like you adjust using the nuts to slacken off, and then slide out.. otherwise you'll need to feed one side of the cable through, which means undoing one end at the throttle..


actually it should be two cables, so each will have a nob on the end, which locates in the pulley, otherwise it wouldn't pull but slide....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No is the answer, all bits are totally fine, no washer and no extra holes in the slides...... damnit...


The carbs seem in really good condition so far.. not managed to get the float bowl off yet as the screws are very hard in!

Try looking in the airbox, i believe they fitted blades to retrisct the amount of air flow...?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought is your possible lack of performance related to something else? ie a fuel restriciton or just general wear and tear... After giving my bike a full service where I changed air filter, fuel filter, plugs etc the performance was much better....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ER5 Max Power - 50 hp 36.5 KW @ 8500 rpm, Max Torque - 45.2 Nm @ 7000 rpm, Dry-Weight - 179 kg


GS500E Max Power - 45.5 hp 33.2 kW @ 9200 rpm (41.2 hp @ 9300 rpm )

Max Torque - 39.2 Nm @ 7600 rpm, Dry-Weight - 173.0 kg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ER5 Max Power - 50 hp 36.5 KW @ 8500 rpm, Max Torque - 45.2 Nm @ 7000 rpm, Dry-Weight - 179 kg


GS500E Max Power - 45.5 hp 33.2 kW @ 9200 rpm (41.2 hp @ 9300 rpm )

Max Torque - 39.2 Nm @ 7600 rpm, Dry-Weight - 173.0 kg

 


yup - only problem is his (ER5) is restricted to 33 bhp!


so in thoery mine should have 12 bhp more!


I've dismissed it now, its either in the brain or just not running too smoothly. I'll see what a good service will do. Also spoken to Ragdol, we've come up with another idea - it has a K & N on it - if the jets are still normal then it might be causing it to run lean maybe.


Float bowl screws are completely stuck, can't shift them at all. already tried a few things and nothings worked - just causing the screws to shred :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going to have to drill these awful screws out.... what a nightmare, screwdriver wasn't slipping just thoroughly eating into the head of the screw before my very eyes...


hopefully i can find a screw extractor small enough to do the job. I've found a site / ebay which sells packs of screws for the carbs so replacing them isn't an issue Its just annoying that its every single one (8 all together)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

tip for ya for the future especially with aluminium casings such as carbs .... boiling water .. if possible immerse screws and casing into a pot of boiling water or sometimes judt pouring it around will help loosen them .... but try not to get water into carb or fuel pipes ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just found a pretty good website for Suzuki bits.


http://www.alpha-sports.com/spst/2001%2 ... ?clicks=11


i need screw number 38 from the diagram X 8!


I've found a bloke who sells all of these screws in a pack for a fiver off ebay (ebay user ID Patauf)


I'll keep you posted with my drilling progress :o !

 


i use cmsnl..


http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs500-2001- ... partslist/


and they can supply parts quickly too..


go to halfords and get a screw extractor kit, 5 bits, differing in size then drill a small hole, screw in the extractor and turn, as its a reverse thread it will grip and turn the screw out..

drill the head of the screw

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took the carbs round me dads so i could use his bench drill.


The screws just blunted the drill bits!


Went to Halfords (not a very big one) and they didn't have the extractor. Got one from Focus DIY but its the drill bit type (looks a bit like a counter-sinking drill bit) Tried it and just actually drilled into the head of the screw.


So its either new drill bits and a different Halfords for extractor set. or taking it to a bike shop to have a crack at...


Bloody annoying though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took the carbs round me dads so i could use his bench drill.


The screws just blunted the drill bits!


Went to Halfords (not a very big one) and they didn't have the extractor. Got one from Focus DIY but its the drill bit type (looks a bit like a counter-sinking drill bit) Tried it and just actually drilled into the head of the screw.


So its either new drill bits and a different Halfords for extractor set. or taking it to a bike shop to have a crack at...


Bloody annoying though!

 

as you have them off, use the tip placed earlier about boiling water... boil some water and put in a bowl, invert the carb and dunk in the boiling water, just enough to submerge the cap and bolts, then try again,


can you get a small set of maulgrips on the heads?


or use a chisel, angle it to cut into the side of the screw head and to turn it lefty loosey..


another option, small junior hacksaw, cut a slot and then use a bladed screwdriver..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome - managed to get them out - terribly!


basically used my screw extractor (on anti clockwise) which basically drilled a cone into the screw head.


Then i used a punch and hammer right in the hole i had made......


THEN - i basically used some plyers (the ones with a moveable handle to get maximum leverage - bit like a mole grip) to completely squash the top of the screw into an oval shape.


Then back with the extractor tool and the screw just unscrewed out.


Did this 8 times!! cool... just need the new screws etc to come now......


On with the cleaning!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

next time ez grip your screw head and get an easyout screw extractor u need a colbolt bit abit smaller than screw shaft and an eay out of the same size.


http://www.cromwell.co.uk << everything there!


http://www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN0751160K <


https://www.ezgrip.net/cart/product.php ... 249&page=1 << wht i use

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Welcome to The Motorbike Forum.

    Sign in or register an account to join in.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Please Sign In or Sign Up