Uncle Meat

I'd also add some aspirin, brandy, soothing music and a darkened room for those really stubborn jobs...

Why does it always seem to be the scrotal area that gets wet...?

This is a job I will leave until the spring to undertake. Smelly undercarridge or not...

Good job so far. It will be worth it when you get the frame powder coated and the engine back in all nice and shiny. Summer will be here in 5 1/2 months...

I recently bought some oxford rigger braces for my J&S trousers due to big weight loss. Best thing I ever did. They are really good and allow me to do Bobby Ball impressions...lol

Good idea. Well done.

What have Freddie Mercury and Frank Bruno got in common...? . . . . . . They've have both been battered around the ring.

I don't want to take it out just in case I can't get it back in again. Its packed in at the moment with loads of ptfe and a prayer...

Hi can any 2007 ybr owners varify that the oil drain bolt size is M12 x 1.5? I am sure it is but just want to make sure. I've been searching on the web for ages and can't find any solid evidence. Thanks.

Thanks for the advice megawatt but I still think the valve is the way to go. If I degrease well and then some more, sand the surfaces to make good contact I think all will be hunky dory. The thread is reasonably intact so all should be ok.

Ok having given it much delibaration I have decided the best way to go is to A Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve (see link last post) and chemicaly weld it into/onto the sump. It doesn't need to come out as you drain it from the end via a drain tube. No chance of drilling at the wrong angle, no chance of swarf getting into the engine either. I don't even technically have to drain the oil if I lay the bike on it's side. They don't list my bike but as my nut is an M12 x 1.5 and they sell M12 x 1.5 then I don't see a problem? Does anyone else? If the chemical weld leaks (which I hope it won't) I suppose I could always have it welded on. Would that be argon welding? I will have to wait until I have a day off (ages yet) but will take pics and let everyone know how it go's...

Just reading on the net. Some bikers are using these (even before they have problems) - http://aggracing.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=75 I could chemical weld it in place and never have to remove it again... Just drain via a tube directly into an old oil can. ebay listing for the above - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stahlbus-Oil-Drain-Valve-M12-x-1-5mm-Thread-/190726555023?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2c6830458f

Cool thanks.

How would I change oil in the future then? Weld the nut over the hole, to allow a bolt to be screwed in and out for oil changes. So find a nut and bolt, place nut over hole, apply loads of chemical metal around the nut to bond it to the sump - no drilling, no chance of swarf falling into the engine... Not heard of that one before? anyone else tried this?

How would I change oil in the future then? I've heard helicoiling ain't so bad to carry out? Can anyone tell me if the kit I mentioned above will do the job? Can I use the same size bolt after?

Sadly not.

I hear what you are saying but I was worried about getting the hole drilled straight. Maybe the best bet would be to start the drilling with the bike on its side and then stand it up to finish the job. What do you think?

Well it's finally happened... Whilst doing a basic oil change the other day the sodding drain plug bolt went loose when I tightened it. I don't need to eloborate any further. None of the local bike shops will touch it so I have to attempt a helicoil myself... So just to reassure me can I just double check things with you fine people. Its a 2007 ybr 125 and I have assertained that the drain bolt is an M12 x 1.5 Does this sound Correct? I have sourced this kit off fleabay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-Piece-Thread-Repair-Kit-M12-x-1-5-x-16-3mm-Helicoil-Type-/260920878571?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cc018a5eb Will this do the job? I have watched all the youtube videos and read all the availiable bumf on the net and feel ready(ish) to tackle the job. It seems to me the main points are - 1. Make sure you drill straight. 2. Make sure the tang doesn't fall into the engine. 3.use grease at all stages to catch stray swarf. As you've guessed im doing it with the engine assembled as splitting the casings is well beyond me. and I think if i'm methodical and do an oil change right after I should be ok. I will drain the oil and lie the bike as flat as I can to do the job and intend to fit a new magnetic drain plug once finished. Have I forgotten anything? Many thanks in advance.

I have Heine Gericke Pathan Evo 5 finger version and as yet have stayed dry. On sale at the moment in Hein Gericke for £41.

You could fit a small goldfish bowl inside it so you could see the fish through the open visor? How about a hanging basket? Somewhere to keep your pennies and loose change? A biscuit barrel?

ACF50 for me. Just coated the bike from head to foot. ***Warning*** Keep it well away from the brakes, tyres and the foot rests...!!!

Quote - "Bike was serviced 2 days before I bought the bike and had an oil change". Did you buy it from a shop? Warranty...

Congratulations...

Ordered it in the end from fleabay for £14.40. Thanks for all the replies.

Thanks, i'll check out Evans and the like.