Mr Fro

Joeman - seeing as you've got them apart, does it look like there's a focus ring or something at the back end of the lens bit? Cheers dude!

Lefty loosy, righty tighty.

Without the Girl - Daniel Bedding[strikeout]centre[/strikeout]field

Wot im says! Popping a couple on shims (1.1mm total) under my needles made a great deal of difference to my mid range.

Just as well no other bugger has booked it as its forecast bloody rain! Me booking a track day and Neil going somewhere are the two things guaranteed to bring on the wet stuff.

Falero Lady - Gryphon

Sounds like you're on the right track. Those symptoms could well be linked. Asking decent power from 2.5k on an R6 is expecting a bit much to be honest! From your vid - what is your idle speed? Sounds a bit high to me - might be worth setting it a bit lower (~1k) and see what it's like then. 2.5k is pilot jet territory so I'd be stripping the carbs down and giving them a good clean and squirt with some carb cleaner, making sure you make a note of all the current carb screw settings and then setting them back to the manufacturer specs when you're done (POs are great at buggering things up). Let us know how you get on!

Cheers buddy. I don't think you said what bike it is... So what happened with it's recuperation? Loads of white smoke and then what?

Any chance you can link to the original thread so we don't all repeat the same stuff again?

I've been suffering mediocre brakes for some time post pad change on my ZXR. Compared to the ZX6r they were simply pants. I tried bleeding them numerous times and even checked the discs and gave them a good sanding with wet 'n dry. They were very progressive, requiring me to yank the lever pretty much back to the bar to get any real stopping power on the track. I had a flash of inspiration today and thought I'd exercise the pistons by taking the calipers off (leaving the pads in), pumping them out until the pads touched, then pushing them back in again. I noticed while I was there that the caliper centre line was not quite aligned with the discs so I untwiddled the axle clamp bolts, spun the axle round a bit and nipped the clamp bolts back up to realign it all. Now I have nice sharp brakes with much less lever travel. All for free!

Dancing on my Own - Robyn

Not a big fan of those eezibleed kits myself - I don't think it's really needed seeing as you can reach the lever and the nipple at the same time. So, the procedure should be: Fill reservoir with fluid and make sure bleed nipples are nipped up with tube attached. Press lever back to bar. Starting from the caliper nearest the lever, slacken nipple a bit (no more than 1 turn) and leave for a second or two. Nip nipple back up again and slowly release lever. Repeat steps 2 - 4 until fluid comes through nipple without air bubbles then move on to the other caliper. If your not getting fluid through after a few attempts, check to see if you've got a bleed nipple on the master cylinder and bleed this in the same way to prime it. If you're still not getting fluid through, give the reservoir, tubing and master cylinder a few taps with a spanner to free up any air bubbles.

I'm finally going to sort my suspension with some nifty springs and such. This is my first foray in to the world of tweaking bike suspension and I don't have the spare cash right now to buy hundreds of sets of springs until I get it right! Has anyone got any experience of FTR suspension Products or service? Are they helpful, knowledgeable etc? I'd happily take recommendations for anywhere else too! Cheers, Fro

Your handbook/Haynes/service manual will tell you the capacity of your cooling system (I think it's a little over 2L). Your documentation will probably suggest a 50:50 mix coolant:water so if it's around 2L capacity then I personally would be quite happy with 1L coolant and the rest water (distilled). Which light flash dimly when you swapped the fuses? Fuses are not resistive so I don't know why you would get a dim flash light issue unless you had some bad contacts at the fusebox/adjacent connectors. Last time: Have you checked the condition of your oil yet and were there any deposits in the coolant reservoir before you changed the fluid? This is a key question that will help diagnose your problem. It is not unusual for a sportsbike to run in excess of 100 degrees C/212 farenheight on the motorway, especially if you've been ragging it.

Kelvin is the future! Erm... One of those fuses isn't blown is it? Can't think why it wouldn't work with them switched round unless one of them was u/s.

Of course I haven't! Man mentality dictated that I bunged the switch to top-trumps and sod the rest. You may have crept up to 5/8 of a pint...

Yep. I think the problem was that it did the update and threw a wobbly at the card. I re-re-formatted it and all is well. What's the focus on yours like? Mine is super sharp about 1' to 18" away but after that it's a bit fuzzy. Not awful but not great either.

I said idiot's guide Stu! I currently formatting my SD card again as the 50min bin file doesn't want to take... Besides, you only get half a pint as you only answered half the question!

Pretty good from what I can tell - didn't get much wind noise at all.

Sail Away - Enya

Nah, he'd be far more frenzied if that were the case!

Well, well, well. Not a bad piece of kit at all - makes my £25 iwantoneofthose mini DV cam look like a bag of crap! My only gripes are the focus as it seems a bit close - doesn't seem to change depth of field between foci. Secondly, the 3 min vid length - there's quite a few frames missing between files. Don't suppose anyone knows how to sort these issues and fancies doing an idiot's guide? I offer beer as a reward!

What, noisy bast*rd kids? Scary stuff thinking that people are zipping about with crappy lids.

Stone Cold Bush - Red Hot Chili Peppers

I did the tape thing today - I'll let you know how it goes...