Mr Fro

Can you not tap it in to the side light wiring?

Top tip: DO NOT use WD40 to clean your rims just before you get new tyres fitted. The balance weights won't stick and you'll end up looking like a nob. Source: recent experience.

Scarily enough I have to agree here! I always have and still wear jeans and shoes for short journeys (sub 20 miles) which includes my commute. Wear what your happy with and accept the relative risk you take.

Sounds cam chainy to me. Don't fret just yet, the auto tensioner might not quite have clicked up to next notch.

They don't need loctiting, I have never used it and have had no problems. This is true. One of my bikes is bit if and old dog so I like to make sure.

That is almost exactly my preferred method except I used 2x 2m lengths of "L" shaped aluminium.

I use blue loctite on loads of stuff too. See if you can get the lipstick variety as it's easier to use and doesn't leak everywhere.

Just curious as I've just done mine. I used a combo of counting notches, measuring a straight edge and peeking round the rear wheel. Does anyone have any other method as it took me aaaaages!

You going to book it up then? Re: discount, it only works if the slots are booked in one go so someone would have to collect everyone's cash and make the booking. Don't know if we can do that through the forum? Might be good for establishing a relationship with the company...

I've only done 4 or 5 and only once been to Cadwell so I reckon I qualify. There's a 10% discount for groups of 5+. Doesn't sound like we'll get there though but £89 is still a great price for a day on track.

175 isn't that bad for new rubber. Scrubs can be incredibly cheap ~ 90-100 for Supercorsa SC for example which are ~ 350 new. I've used scrubs without any problem but you have to be really careful when you buy them that they aren't ruined already. I've found milage can be pretty good as on track you use the edges more than the centre of the tyre and vice-versa on the road. Like Stu says though, they are pants in the wet!

Good stuff Deso - maybe you can lend Stu and Littlecat some of your days off.

Hello everyone! There's a novice day at Cadwell on Thursday 24th July see here for £89. There are currently 18 places available so I wondered if anyone fancies going as a group. For those who haven't done one yet, the novice days are nice and relaxed and good fun with a huge range of bikes. Plus, if we can get 5+ people going we can have a tasty little discount. Anyone up for it? Cheers, Fro

Beat me to it Joeman!

Do you mean and extra 1/4 -1/2 turns out? I can't find the link now but I think I read that it's supposed to be ~2 turns out...

Apologies from me too - only just got back and I'm knackered.

Simple, make it how you want it now. Keep all the bits and put it back to OEM when you come to sell. Some insurance companies are iffy about mods and some don't care. Ring around the more bikey ones and you'll be reet (as they say).

Me if I can stay awake that long.

I'm guessing that'll be a pint at London prices too.

It's the only place I ever seem to have any trouble. Must be all them saaarfolk people.

I've had a rummage around and can't find anything about a fuel level reference on your carb but I did find a reasonable how-to guide (I'm very busy at work today ) http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-15/how-set-your-motorcycle-carburetor-float-level-more-commentary-13608 The end of the first post is the bit that you need although I wouldn't measure the distance with the carb upside down as it'll compress the spring that's in the needle (you can't see it but it's in there!) I hold mine so the float is off of the needle and slowly rotate it until the float tang touches the needle and makes it close without pushing in the little pin that sticks out of the top of it (if that makes sense). If your problem gets better as it warms up it really does sound like a lean condition so if you measure it again and find it to be right, you might want to raise it (make the gap between the carb and float bowl smaller) by 1mm and see how it goes. Maybe double check the screw on the side while you're there too.

Doubt it'll be the valves if the compression is okay. Have you checked the fuel level? Just because the float level is right doesn't always mean the fuel level in the carb bowl is correct. There should be a nipple on the bottom of the carb with a drain screw and also a mark on the side of the carb as a reference point. Connect up a bit of clear tube to the nipple and tape the other end to the side of the carb. Open the fuel tap then the drain screw until fuel starts to fill the tube. Try not to wiggle the tube as it might give you a false reading. Measure the distance from the reference point to the fuel level and see what it's like in comparison to the manual. You can also get the engine running and see whether the fuel level is stable or if it fluctuates. Oh, how did you measure the float - with the valve closed but before the float compresses the spring? Also, sorry if I'm, telling you how to suck eggs! Got to add that I've just read the manual and it's bloody hilarious!

A pair of noobs... Snigger, snigger... Sorry about that, had to get it off my chest.... Welcome fellow Kwaki people!

Check out this thingy: http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/images/RelayWiringGuide.jpg

And welcome to the forum... I apologise most sincerely for my lack of knowledge on the Haynes back catalogue. Perhaps I should clarify my previous comment; you say you've done a Google search for indicator relays and only found three pin connectors as opposed to your two pin connector. The suggestion that you consult a manual to find out which is OEM or indeed if you have located the correct relay I think is pretty reasonable - might be that you've found the headlight relay. A voltmeter across it while operating various switches should give you an answer.