Fozzie

The injector may have failed. Have it checked out, replace the injector as it sounds like that has packed up. If that doesnt work then look into the ECU. It has to be one of the 2... Also, just to clear up any other silly possibilities, you havent got a fuel tap have you and switched it off rather than to res or on? Just a possibility. Please check it. Kill switch? What about your kick stand? How is the battery? Try and bump it!

Bigger main jet Better air filter or drill holes in the box to free up air flow Iridium spark plug for stronger spark and smoother revs Better exhaust Bigger sprockets to match That list there should get you maybe 3 horse power extra. The spark plugs and airfilter increased my Varaderos performance by 2 horse power. This is when I was upgrading it.

Im selling a 2005 engine and it has this... http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/iipcache/83403.jpg I chopped off the pipe and connected this up. The bike worked fine, no difference at all If you want I can give you the link

Just use the bleed nippled (hehe... nipple *slaps face*) and drain it and then either top it up as you go as I tend to do as im lazy or bleed the system with new stuff

Is the starter motor turning over the engine? Is there any firing? Need a lot more details to help you out there!

I wouldnt buy a one piece set of leathers as all it takes then is for one off and a bad landing and you could do a fair amount of damage to them! I find they are only good on tracks where you go fast enough to warrant something that slows you down as well as a good one piece does. The difference between a 1 piece and a 2 piece is literally in the name. 2 piece lets you alter what you wear, though I believe they dont act as well as the 1 piece in terms of protecting you in an off on the road it doesnt make much of a difference! Textiles are what I tend to wear and the reason for that is whereas leathers dont rip easily and have armour, textiles come built in with a lot of padding and armour on the good sets. And they are sewn up so they dont tear in an accident. Leathers will protect you with better effect than textiles though textiles for me are much more comfortable and the extra padding gives me a greater feeling of safety If you are a serious, hard going rider and like a spirited ride I would reccomend you get leathers. If you are a town rider or long commuter and like to go distance then you get the touring textiles. Though this said, very soon a new type of textile like material is coming onto the market and has the strengths of both and the weaknesses of neither. BIKE keep raving about it being the next big revolution but the name escapes me.

Wow, did not actually expect this would make it to being a sticky, it was just a thread to instruct those who want a 125. Thanks for all the support, its being edited all the time hence the edit count being so high. The bikes mentioned I have actually encountered at some point, whether it be talking to the owner as im full of a million questions to anyone who has a 125 bike as I want to know if there is any differences that make it unique and if so what they are and im currently in a friend group wanting to take part in my epic 125cc journey that im planning so ive sort of become the 125 Guru as anything they need to know I try to tell them everything I know of the bike from the general point of view rather than just my point of view! When ever I find more 125's that fit this category I will add them here!

It still staggers me at the quality of the roads you have over the big blue pond! I can only sit back and dream of having such gorgeous roads to ride, well maintained, well built with gorgeous scenery Good report

If your speedo is connected to the wheel then it would corrupt the reading, however some use a reading from revs and gear so check this out! Also you would accelerate faster but lose top speed. I wouldnt do it personally, no matter how short I was as it could cause a flurry of issues! Is it not possible to lower it anymore and if not maybe a different bike is on the cards?

If I have my 125 by the time you do this I will join you if you dont mind rolling with a lil 125 A trip like this is huge, thats easily a 6-8 hour route and I think many will think its a nutters trip as its a tour more than a bimble... But I do love challenges We could make it a huge southern trip, get people from around to come down and join. But it will take a while to get everyone together for this! Ohhh, I am getting a 125 Varadero for getting around and doing all my old mods to it. Makes it hold 70mph no problem with a top speed of an indicated 95 or there abouts so it will be able to keep up on the fast bits.

Ive just added the Budget bikes section as it also came to my attention many want a bike for under £1000 so its been written up and pictures added appropriately. Thanks for the responce. Its good to see I have found something I am good at

Welcome to the 125 thread! First of, this thread has been generated in responce to the amount of people looking for 125's. Also, I am very much involved with 125's and love to ride them. It is the class I have been most heavily involved in, I have ridden many of them and know most of the other modern 125's as well as a couple of old ones. Please use the index below to 1. The 2-stroke 125 Bikes - Separated into sections as there arent that many 1.1 Gilera SC125 1.2 Derbi GPR125 1.3 Aprilia RS125 1.4 Cagiva SP525 1.5 Honda NSR125 1.6 Summary 2. The 2-stroke 125 Scooters - This Class Has Died, I Would Advise You Dont Buy One For Much 3. The 4-stroke 125 Bikes - Pictures with a key to tell you which bike is good for what. The Bikes in this review are: Honda Varadero XL125, Rieju RS2, Suzuki DRZ125, Honda CBF125, Yamaha YBR125, Yamaha YZF-R125, Derbi GPR125, Hyosung GT125R, Honda CBR125, KTM Duke 125, Derbi Terra, Daelim Roadwin 4. The 4-stroke 125 Scooters - A Paragraph Spared To Explain The Differences Between Them 5. Bikes On A Budget - Reviewed: Honda CG125, Honda XR125, Kymco KR Sport 125, Hyosung GT125R, Rieju RS2 125, Yamaha SR125 6. A list of all manufacturers in order of which to buy from as reccomended by myself and drafted in from other sources such as bike magazine and online reviews and friends reviews. 6.1 A list of 2-stroke manufactures in order of how good they are and which to trust. 7. 125cc Cruiser Motorbikes - Pictures And With The Same Key as used for the sports bikes. 7.1 Suzuki VL Intruder 125 7.2 Suzuki Vanvan 125 7.3 Hyosung RT125D 7.4 Suzuki Marauder 125 7.5 Honda Shadow 125 7.6 Yamaha SR 125 8. 125cc Road Legal Moto-Cross Bikes 8.1 Kawasaki KLX 125 8.2 Yamaha WR125X 8.3 Yamaha XT125X 9. Closing Comments And List Of Manufacturers You Can Buy From With Confidence 10. Bike Awards - The Best In Category And More 1. The 2-stroke class is well and truly dieing. Soon it will be gone which some take as a reason to get one now. Your options are fairly limited as Derbi has turned its GPR into a 4-stroke. Your options are the Aprilia RS125 and the Gilera SC125 or an old Derbi GPR 125. 1.1 http://www.moto-newsblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/03/060330_gil125b.jpg This is the Gilera SC125. It comes with 15bhp and a very normal amount of specs. It can get passed 80mph, it accelerates ok. It is however quite jittery. This can be changed by making it run less rich but this destables reliability. In terms of economy and reliability it just isnt worth it compared with the 4-stroke alternatives. Derestricting is easy and performance parts are in abundance. It will burn through its cylinders at the usual pace. However, the electrics can degrade on this bike over time so be warned. Out of 10... 4/10 1.2 http://www.motosyco.com/catalog/images/GPR_125_R_1.jpg Derbi GPR125. Look familiar? Yep... The gilera and derbi are basically copies of each other. They both handle brilliantly and have easy to derestrict engines but both not good for the novice rider who isnt prepared to maintain his/her bike. 4/10 1.3 http://www.paddockreport.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/2010-Aprilia-RS125a-small.jpg Aprilia RS125.The hardest to derestrict, the fastest of the bunch. Best handling. Lethal to the new rider. Restricted they are good stable bikes. Derestricted and you can now buy them as such they are little pocket rockets. Not for the new rider and for the same reasons above. 6/10 1.4 http://www.maquantocosta.it/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/cagiva_mito_sp525_2009_01.jpg Cagiva SP525. Has always tried to be better than the aprilia and failed. Not as jittery as the derbi. This one however has more faults with its electrics than anything else. So be warned. Also they are quite expensive considering how simple they are. 5/10 1.5 http://www.mc-nett.no/honda/honda-02/honda-nsr-125-3.jpg Honda NSR125. The most reliable of all the 2-stroke 125's. The only in its class to manage 20,000 miles per rebuild. However, do not buy one for little cash unless there are cosmetic problems. The engine and its electrics have to be in good condition for this to be a good purchase. So be warned. They have better low end power than the others. But a weaker top end. They do however make up for this by being devilishly quick in the corners. They are also very comfortable to ride. 1.6 - Summary 125 2-stroke bikes are good as weekend runabouts but certainly not an option for using for any kind of distance. They will burn a hole in your pocket. But the wicked fun you can have with them cant be ignored. Always warm them up in the mornings and before any ride and keep filling up the oil with the good stuff. Tweeking isnt reccomended but if you think you can get it set up properly go for it. They are a big laugh and will do you proud on those sunny sundays. The one 2-stroke out of the list I would suggest is the Honda NSR. They have stopped making them but they still have a mass of parts available for them. There are still hundreds out there and being the easiest to look after and maintain I would certainly get one if I was a noobie rider. 2. 125cc 2-stroke scooters and there are alot of them are all the same essentially. I wont do any stats reports on specific scooters as they are all the same. They all produce the same sort of power. The ones to go for are Peugeot usually. The peugeots are good value and give you a lot but they do require a lot of maintainence as all 2-strokes do. 2-stroke 125 scooters are now more or less dead. So you can only really get them 2nd hand. This said I am only speaking of the reliable trustworthy brands that I would use personally if I had the choice. I am not saying there are none. Just please avoid Chinese apart from Kymco. 3. The 125cc 4-stroke class is by far the most underrated of all the bike classes. It isnt my opinion speaking here but in the last few years the 125cc class on the whole has taken some big leaps. They are now coming better equipped with more power, looking better, with better quality all around. They are also steadily becoming suited to doing long trips. Especially the higher powered ones. I will break this down into 2 sections. The air cooled and the liquid cooled. The best air cooled 125s you can buy in decending order as gathered from numerous people and sources. Honda varadero 125, Rieju RS2 125, Suzuki DRZ125, Honda CBF125 Or Honda CG125, Yamaha YBR125. They all make the same sort of power except from the varadero which makes 4 more hp but weighs 30kg more than the others. The liquid cooled are in order. Yamaha YZF-R125, Derbi GPR125, Hyosung GT125R, Honda CBR125R, KTM Duke 125. Pictures in order... Heres the key: Town bike = Nippy but too revvy for long distance - A-road Blitzer = Nippy and good at longish distance - A-road tourer = Good in town and good to sit on all day up A-roads. Honda Varadero - A-road tourer http://www.litestudio82.co.uk/db/img/mv-blog/Honda_XL_125_V_Varadero_travel_stpz.jpg Rieju RS2 125 - Town bike http://www.bikez.com/pictures/rieju/2006/23192_0_1_2_rs2%20125_Image%20credits%20-%20Rieju.jpg Suzuki DRZ125 - Town bike http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20C/Suzuki%20DR125SM%2008.jpg Honda CBF125 - Town bike http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20B/Honda%20CBF%20125%20%2009.jpg However, a point raised by Ingah, this bike is just the new updated Honda CG. Its just modernised with slightly better kit. The CBF has poor quality tyres so change. The CG is more dated but just as nice to ride. Honda CG125 - Town bike http://www.bikez.com/pictures/honda/2006/22471_0_1_2_cg%20125_Image%20credits%20-%20Honda.jpg Yamaha YBR125 - Town bike http://www.manualesdemotos.net/catalog/images/yamaha_YBR125.jpg Liquid Cooled Yamaha YZF-R125 - A-road Blitzer http://www.yamaha-motor.be/french/Images/2010-yamaha-YZF-R125_MBL2_studio_007_prv_tcm31-325904.jpg Derbi GPR125 - A-road Blitzer http://www.wallpapers10.net/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Derbi_GPR_125_2009.jpg Hyosung GT125R - Tourer http://www.bikez.com/pictures/hyosung/2007/25046_0_1_2_gt125r%20supersport_Image%20credits%20-%20Hyosung.jpg Honda CBR125R - Town Bike http://www.moto-station.com/ttesimages/motodivers/nouveautes2007/Honda_CBR125R_2007_rouge_stgz KTM Duke 125 - A-road Blitzer http://www.motorcyclenews.com/upload/271743/images/KTM-125-2.jpg Derbi Terra 125 - Town Bike http://www.derbi.com/int/images/stories/motos/dual/terra_125/000_07.png Daelim Roadwin 125 - A-road Blitzer http://www.bikez.com/pictures/daelim/2008/27540_0_1_2_roadwin%20r%20125%20f.i._Image%20credits%20-%20Daelim.jpg 4. 4-stroke 125 Scooters - Honda, Suzuki, Kymco, SMC-GB There are loads of them out there all different shapes and sizes. The ones put forward are the ones I would suggest you buy as the others particularly chinese models just arent up to the same standards these are. You can get these 2nd hand cheap and in good condition. Power ratings vary, typically the bigger the scooter the more chunky an engine its given. The light little ones put out roughly 8BHP whereas the bigger built scooters are producing a more reasonable 12bhp. The average power tends to be 10-11BHP so make sure if you buy for the sake of being safe and being able to get around briskly get one within this power range or higher as it will make a big difference. Handling wise they are pretty much the same. The larger ones I find inspire more confidence in the bends as with more weight you feel more easy about dipping it in low. The lighter ones can be thrown about but jitter around the road and are easily pushed around. The chinese ones dont last long. Usually they can manage a couple of thousand miles before they develop an electrical problem or worse. 5. Bikes on a budget. Ok so you have less than £1000. This tends to be quite common. People looking to start on the cheap or buy a hack they wont feel bad for throwing down the road. So here are the options. 1. Honda CG125 - As pictured above it is a very simple and effective machine. It does all the things you want for a beginner bike. It has 11BHP and almost 10nm of torque. So its a bit weak on power being air cooled but the torque means it can do 60-70mph on the flats with a tail wind depending on your weight. Don't try to do distance on it though, it will and can do it but its stenuous as the tyres are so thin and the bike so light you are thrown around a bit by the wind in the upright position. Its nippy, easy to look after and will never let you down. 2. Hyosung GT125R - Rare to find under £1000 but ive seen a few. Hyosung are Korean. That usually warrants distrust but I wouldnt worry. Like Kymco copying Honda, Hyosung uses Suzuki designs and employs suzuki engineers to design their bikes for them. The V-twin is strong making as much as its legally allowed too and torque is good. It is however very heavy using the 250 frame and wheels. This makes it planted but hard to lift if you drop it. Also the weight maybe unsettling for new riders but once moving its lovely to ride and control. Very good bike. A-Road tourer (see above) in my opinion. 3. Rieju RS2 125 - I saw a mint condition one go for £650 just 2 weeks ago. They are unknown but use moto-cross engines. Buckets of torque, very nippy but a bit strangled at higher speed. Its AJP brakes however mean its fantastic for coming to a stop. It has confidence inspiring grip and handling to match. Dont be put off by its low power. Its not just a pretty bike in a fake frock. A Town bike as it is, its probably the best on a budget. 4. Kymco KR Sport - Town Bike http://www.motorcyclenews.com/upload/208521/images/KRsport.JPG Taiwanese but Honda designed and just beat the Honda CBR125 in reviews. Are the non japanese brands now catching up or is it just a fluke? They are worth the money but change the tyres as they are cheap. Also ignore the rev metre as its redline of 8000rpm on the early models is to be laughed at. It pulls strong through to 10,000rpm. 5. Honda XR125 - Town Bike http://www.fourstrokesonly.com/Images/2/3/4/5/Hon.XR.125.L.E.SM.jpg A moto-cross version of the Honda CG. Exactly the same engine, brakes and weight. But it can carry more, handles better and looks better to me. Its bigger built and has wider tyres. A town bike, and a damn good alternative to the Honda CG125 too. 6. Yamaha SR125 - Town bike http://www.catalyst-findit.co.uk/images/vehicles/large_102393.jpg Probably the cheapest out of the lot to buy. Need to be careful now as owners are just roughly keeping them together and selling them on. One in good nick will never let you down though! 6. For 4-stroke bikes = Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Derbi, Rieju, Hyosung 6.1 For 2-stroke bikes = Aprilia, Derbi, Cagiva, Gilera I have already mentioned scooters in the appropriate sections. 7. 7.1 Suzuki VL Intruder 125 - A-Road Tourer http://www.suzuki-gb.co.uk/uploads/bike_vl125_main1.jpg This is one of the favourite 125 Cruisers. It has a chunky V-twin developing 13.5BHP. This is almost a full horse power ahead of the CBR125 which it needs weighing 20kg more. It produces the same torque as the single cylindered CBR125 as well which means its not too fast. However its V-twin delivers the power and torque over a wide band meaning it is a very user friendly bike. 7.2 Suzuki Vanvan 125 - Town Bike http://www.arpem.com/motos/modelos/suzuki/flash/2008/suzuki-vanvan-125/suzuki-vanvan-125-post2.jpg These have an owners club devoted to these and you dont see many used as general hacks or commuters, I dont doubt their ability to be used as such however. Engine from a DR-Z125, not a lot of go but a solid motor. However with the rear tyre the bike should be remarkably stable, not flick through corners style but getting around and cruising even in wet over diesel I suspect it would perform well. 7.3 Hyosung RT125D - Town Bike This is a copy of the Suzuki vanvan. Hyosung are very much controlled by Suzuki. So this bike is just an alternate option. Is uses the same engine and frame. However, the colors are better on the Hyosung so I would prefer one of these to the Vanvan. And to sneak in an opinion many will share it has a better name than that youd hear sputtered from a child when you point at a transit. 7.4 Suzuki Marauder 125 - Town Bike http://motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/2006_Bikes/MARAUDER125.jpg Unlike the Intruder this is a town bike. It is only a single cylinder for a start. But it vibrates a lot more especially at higher revs. It tops out at about 65 when then intruder can pull further. However its single is punchy so it is good for commuting around and into town. But for those who want to go any distance comfortably. Go for the Intruder. 7.5 Honda VT Shadow 125 - A-Road Tourer http://katalog-motocyklov.sk/img/honda-vt-125-shadow-2.jpg I've saved the best until last. The Shadow 125 comes well equipped with the Honda Varadero engine which has proved time and time again it can pull a lot of weight. With me on the Varadero with a pillion and full top box we still got on to do 75 easily enough. So this bike comes with an uncanny ability to go the distance and also go forever as you would expect. 7.6 Yamaha SR 125 - Town Bike http://www.catalyst-findit.co.uk/images/vehicles/large_102393.jpg Its more of a cruiser than anything else I think, it has a very compressed look about it. But essentially this bike is powered by the same engine as a Honda CG125. Given the right servicing it will go forever. They come very cheap these days as they were put out of production some years ago now that the 125 class is dominated by little town bikes and super sport replicas. For a nice, cheap easy all round package this bike is the one for you and can be bought on a tight budget. 8. As I have written this post I have noticed a little startling fact. With all the modern day street and sports bikes out there, the road legal moto-cross bikes have been forgotten. However many believe they hold the key to having the most fun on Britains B-roads. So having already given the Suzuki DRZ125 and the Honda XR125 a word in I thought I would let you know about the 125 moto-cross bikes that are worth buying. I have used the key from previous parts of the article as well. 8.1 Kawasaki KLX 125 - Town Bike http://hellforleathermagazine.com/images/2010_Kawasaki_KLX125_2.jpg This bike is by far the smallest bike you can buy. It is absolutely tiny and you can see that with it barely weighing in over 110kg. For the smaller rider however. Brilliant, providing you are about 5 foot 7 or less. You have to be short to ride this bike with any degree of comfort. The power isnt great, with 10.3HP its less powerful than a Honda CG. But it makes slightly more torque and it weighs a little less. The Honda CG of the moto-cross world essentially. Very reliable and probably amazing at taking corners with that wheel base. 8.2 Yamaha WR125X - A-Road Blitzer http://www.yamaha-motor-europe.com/Images/2010-yamaha-WR125X_racing-blue_studio_007_prv_tcm26-328222.jpg This is widely considered as the best 125cc road legal moto-cross bike money can buy. And it probably is in all fairness. It comes equipped with Yamahas latest 125cc engine put into the YZF-R125. This therefore means that it is one of the most powerful 125cc 4-strokes money can buy. A very tall bike with small wheels, it accelerates like a bat out of hell and corners very effectively. It also has the style to go with the power. But at almost £4000, is it worth it? 8.3 Yamaha XT125X - Town Bike http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Gallery%20%20A/Yamaha%20XT125X%2005%20%201.jpg If you want the smaller option here it is. The XT is a duplicate of the KLX. It makes the same power but makes the smallest amount of extra torque. Its a worthy equivalency of the Honda XR125 but with better brakes and better looks. Great as a town runaround and better for the taller rider. A great town bike. 9. To those who have probably thought I have brushed over scooters. The amount written for them is generous as they are designed as work horses with varying class. Light, medium and heavy. With engine power and physical size increasing with them. Its down to a matter of what you like the look of the most but please stick to the japanese scooters. Peugeot are good but not as good as the Japanese. Manufactures to buy from, bike and scooter a like in no order. Honda Aprilia Suzuki Rieju Hyosung Kymco Derbi Gilera Cagiva Yamaha SMC-GB 11 Manufacturers and a shed load of bikes between them... I hope this helped 10. Bike Awards And The Best In Category So, seeing that I have covered a vast amount of 125s in this thread which is the best? My personal opinion would flaw this greatly however, I will write the awards based on the general over view of a bike and what owners have said. I have looked over review forums to get this far! Best A-Road Tourer 1st: Honda Varadero XL125 2nd: Hyosung GT125R 3rd: Honda VT Shadow 125 The reason they are in this order is as follows. The Varadero can't be faulted on its good handling, its brilliant comfort and 250 mile tank range. It blows the others out of the water through just being a typical Honda. It goes forever on a single tank and never breaks down. The Hyosung scored 2nd only because it has a nice amount of power and pull that lets it hold a little bit more speed than the Varadero can. The Shadow came a respectable 3rd seeing as it is a Varadero in a different frock but it has poor handling according to many a rider. If you are after this in a 125, any of these 3 will do! Best A-Road Blitzer 1st: Yamaha YZF-R 125 2nd: Derbi GPR125 3rd: Honda NSR125 A 2-stroke made it into the rankings but only the NSR due to its good reliability for a 2-stroke. The better bikes at blasting down A-roads and smaller and doing distance on them to a satisfactory amount are the Yamaha YZF-R125 and the Derbi GPR125. The Yamaha beat the Derbi simply because it has a stronger engine and is more friendly to ride. The Derbi as extreme and brilliant to handle as it is just doesn't quite keep up with the YZF-R. But its a close race. Best Town Bike 1st: Rieju RS2 125 2nd: Honda CBR125 (Or the Kymco equivalent) 3rd: Suzuki DR125 The Rieju has topped this category based on its comfort, amazing handling and brakes that allow it to stop faster than most 125s. It is a fast bike off the line, it is simplistic and it corners faster than most on fat tyres. It also goes 2 up very effectively with a large pillion seat to either carry luggage or someone. Not very good on roads that require more than 60mph of use unlike the CBR125 which is the only one in class that can hold the higher speeds with any effect. The Suzuki also scored well here as a moto-cross bike it nips through town brilliantly. Bikes On A Budget 1st: Honda CG125 2nd: Honda XR125 3rd: Yamaha SR125 The Honda's have come out on top here mainly because they are so solid. They really can't be faulted on their abilities and the value for money you are actually getting. I would say that the XR is better as a bike but the CG takes it purely on the cheapness of good nick examples you can get. The Yamaha SR also came in as it is a cheap and simple bike but it falls apart a lot more than the Honda's do and good examples are starting to be hard to come by. Fozzie's Favourites 1st: Yamaha YZF-R 125 2nd: Aprilia RS125 3rd: Rieju RS2 125 My perfect 3 bike garage if I were restricted to 125s. Why? Yamaha as it just does everything, it can be used to go distance and for the weekend blast. The Aprilia RS125 as it can be used to go very fast through back roads and its a personal favourite. They go fast, they handle nicely and when looked after will look after you. The Rieju simply because its just a bundle of fun. You can scream around town and up B-roads and small A-roads with a big grin on your face as you take the bike lower and lower through corners. It out corners and out brakes most things and it just feels so controllable. Though all 3 are almost equally a joy to ride.

I have noticed lately that people are saying they cant do left hand turns but they can do right hand turns well... And Vise versa. I have never had problems with cornering either way. My favourite bend is a right bend where I dip it low and my favourite route is coming down the cat and fiddle and dipping it low into the lefties. So I was wondering what the rest of you are like... How many others are like me and dont mind left or right. And how many of you have a preference But why do you prefer left or right? Whats the deciding factor with it. Is your bikes weight off balance, is it because you do a lot more righties/lefties than the other. I probably have a slight preference for right hand bends. I feel a strange sensation of comfort as I lean off the right hand side. I noticed this last night tootling around. Even though my right foot is still nackered I was in a weird comfort zone. I dont get it with left hand corners unless its sweeping and I get a good speed up going through it. I find it very strange in deed so whats everyone elses story?

Too many to really mention And I dont know many of the names of the roads I have favourites in many different parts of the country, the south coast offers the best roads for me.. Scotland is very easy to ride, but the roads up towards wick and john o groats are pretty nice. The via Gella is a nice road, its the best road I know the name of I dont bother with names, I ride to get lost and explore the country. You find all the best places that way!

Hang on, im allowed to get my cast taken off? f**k it im 190 miles north of you.

Im not allowed to go anywhere near a mental patient ward with crutches, I still hobble along with them, I catch my toes on the floor as the weight of the cast is quite a lot after a while and makes it drag. I was told that I need to start excersising my leg and my foot to stop muscle deterioration otherwise I would have to relearn how to walk. So crutches or no crutches... Im fairly f**ked

You dropped it! That explains a lot... Keep an eye on it but it should be the end of your troubles. The valve clearances need to be done, piece of piss job with the right feelers. But do a full service, replace the head gasket, the piston rings, air filter, oil filter, spark plugs (preferably iridium), adjust the clutch, check the brakes. Give it a full work over. Its not expensive, about £100 will sort you out if you use ebay,

8 Days on and f**k it! I had an x-ray to see if my foot had fixed, I went in 4 weeks instead of 6 weeks on the off chance my foot had healed fast. The answer is, yes it has healed fast, yes it could come out the cast but because there was no orthopeidic to come down and have a look I sat around for 4 hours essentially to be told. Go home and wait another 2 weeks... Ive had enough of hobbling around like some stupid gremlin when I have far better things to do. I could work faster, I could get to places faster, I could ride a bike but I cant because my stupid foot wont sodding heal because I have to keep using it which is slowing it down in healing but I cant take time off because im on a strict deadline so well and truly f**k... IT

The bike you saw me on was the 2000 model, the 2001 had FI. FI gives a better throttle responce, quicker and smoother. Carbs have to be balanced at a service but it takes a fair few thousand miles to knock them out of balance and its cheap anyway. FI is more fuel efficient though not much. I love carbs but only as I know the internal workings of them. Fuel injection is nasty when it goes wrong as its all timed etc. If you get the bike I had you cant go far wrong... Apart from Cam chain tensioners. Make sure you swap them out every 15,000 miles

f**k it a million times... I break my foot, i crack a rib and lose my bike and THEN this gorgeous weather turns up... I cant ride, i cant even go outside because im filling the days with all the overtime i can so that when this insurance claim finally gets itself sorted out I can just sit back and buy any god damn bike I choose and by then I bet it will be in summer and seeing how the last 3 summers have been... Sunny spells with predominant RAIN!!!!! f**k it!!!!!

@ Mikey... You got a 600 to restrict it so when its up you can get a 1000... You may as well have just bought a 250 as if you arent going to use the 600 derestricted what was the point in buying it to restrict it in the first place!?!? I reckon you should get that new 1250 if im honest. It would be the one I choose just because as nice as im sure the K5 thou is I sat on the 1250 and it felt bloody nice and will mix good comfy position with sporty go like a right fecker can go go go.

Hmmmm... I found the back protectors very uncomfortable of all sizes. Think I will just wait for the BMF this time round which will probably mean a little extra dish but I could use the quality I spose... Like the look of the battery charger though Good find.

Very much so... I have the Tomtom rider V2. The RAM mount can go on your handlebar and you can get as said before short arms so the device sits right next to your hand looking up at you to give directions.

£40 gets you these puppies... http://www.getgeared.co.uk/MOTO-DETAIL_ ... tegory=206 I know people will say that the quality wont be good but I bought these and they worked brilliantly. You get plastic sleeves to insert inside though I had to cut mine down a bit to make them fit properly. Once they were all up and supported use the array of straps to get it on tight against the rear of the bike using the spare straps it comes with to tie around to hold them tight and inline with the bike. Here is my CBR600F with the panniers and rucksack strapped down using the pannier straps. (Amazing what you can make it do in addition aint it). Excuse the cat... Apparently they were also good as a bed. http://i47.tinypic.com/312gx35.jpg

I know someone who hooked one of these up in the way you seem to want (rear light) and hid it under the seat in a waterproof compartment. Looked like this... http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/full/l94aw.jpg That ran a GPS, an inhelmet telephone, some snazzy spot lights on his bike for riding in poor visibility and heated grips he rigged to a adapter. Not sure why he did that with the last one but meh... If it works it works i spose... As for distributor blocks... Piece of piss... I would get fuses just in case as well but its a matter of putting the pos and neg wires and screwing them in isnt it? Or am i thinking of something else though it looks similar to what I used on a car once. Just the adapter pictured already comes fused etc etc. And its easier to plug things in apparently when its just under the rear seat.