Fozzie

I live 10 minutes from the Ace and heard off Moo you guys were going. So I'll pop along and say hello, if you chaps and chapesses don't mind?

Looking at that picture logically I don't think the wire wore away and damaged, that looks like it had a full on melt down on that part. Go to here: http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/ ... 3aG54#aG54 I fitted one on a blown up Hornet once, when me and the chap rebuilt it ground up. High quality stuff. Fit it with a new reg/rec, unless you have one already and check all wiring, fire it up and I bet it works

Theres a process where basically a lathe grinds them down to being straight and flat. Saw it on wheeler dealers so must be doable! As long as it stays above the correct thickness it is all right!

Simples! Some bikes will have fins, liquid and oil cooling! On the Versys they are big chunky things aren't they? On the KLE they are not as chunky but stick out more? On air cooled bikes they are thin, stick out a bit and are loads of them bunched together. Yours are there to help keep the top end where the magic happens cool. They are there purely to help keep the bike at optimum running temperature, rather than entirely regulate it with coolant flowing through a radiator. Over engineering never hurt anyone did it?

As above, the air cooled engines have fins, these transmit heat to atmosphere... Around 70% of all heat energy from an engine is wasted either as exhaust or given off. Air cooled engines have less peak power as the top end would likely melt if they were highly tuned. I once fitted an old air cooled XJ600 with a oil cooler, it apparently made the bike feel like it was running at peak power all the time, there was no noticeable loss anymore. So it shows how ineffective it is although during winter they are very useful as leg warmers

Crap, I'm flying out too on the 18th so can't do this... Wanted to go badly

Rotary tool + Brass wire wheel + WD40 = Success And if you want to go OTT paint them.

The stator sounds bad! 3 arms, all should have the same readout of 20-something volts as its carbed. They are known to fail on this bike so replace!

You did all that.... Then... "It had to go" Legend

Ah, to adjust that theory slightly When the engine is running, coolant flow to keep it cool by picking up heat and going to the radiator where it expels it, cools down and circulates around the system again. The explosions in the cylinder of fuel is a good few hundred degrees in temperature! You switch the engine off, the heat in the cylinder walls etc dissipates, and the coolant now no longer flowing does not cool off via the radiator. So instead the coolant in the cylinder head will get VERY hot and the pressure will increase. Heat spreads through the system, which has no air or circulation to keep it cool and it causes a heating effect for a minute or so after the bike has been switched off. During warm weather the ambient temperature isn't enough to cool the engine quick enough so the fan is tripped. Is this enough detail Mr Stu?

I have a 2009 CBR600RR that does it, and thats more teched up! Basically when you switch off the engine, the top end has a lot of heat built up, which when the engine stops so does the pump pushing coolant around. So it actually heats up a bit after turning off as nothing is there to regulate the remaining energy stored. And it trips the sensor as a result! So it's all good

If it's running fine when started it doesn't sound like fuel starvation... When cold the bike usually has the choke on which richens the mixture right up. On an old CBR600F I had, if it was hot, it would struggle to start and need to be left for a few minutes. But this was just because that was how it was... Mechanics even said it might be a bugger as very hot engine vaporises fuel very well... Often too well! I wondered as if you watch a temp gauge on some bikes right after shutting them off, the heat increases often beyond the point of when the fan comes on. Air cooled engines shut off when too hot, as the temps halt operation... Could the same not be said about water cooled bikes if after shutting them off the residual heat in the cylinder caused it to heat up beyond its normal operational temps. Thus meaning it needs a few minutes to cool down?

Just adjust it with it on sidestand If it unscrews, you undo the adjusters by half a turn each, and then sit behind the bike and using your feet (of which you have big ones) grab the back wheel, use your feet to stop the bike sliding back and just give it a good tug (giggity), once or twice will do. Check chain tension and if needs be half a turn on each adjuster again and rinse and repeat... Nifty little contraption though

Is it fully engaged? If it isn't it will slip and also let off a burning stink in some cases. Mine was out, you can adjust it. Use the screw adjuster, make sure you have a little bit of free play!

Going to likely add on to this... Will have the first post as 125 guide of 2011. As a lot of new little bikes have come along... So will do some posts on them and title them properly. This forum will be the undisputed guide for 125s... Thinking of a first big bike thread... Got a lot of ideas, would help divert so many questions I see on here

Looks like you had a great time

Top tip, old tooth brushes don't damage seals... The seals will obviously hurt if a steel brush catches it, but plastic brush will be fine. Use a small block of wood, cellotape some tooth brushes so they tightly go round the chain. And if you have a centre stand run the bike, put it in first, spray on the cleaner, and then put the tooth brushes on the chain. Let it run through for about 10-15 seconds, repeat once or twice depending on how bad the chain is. Turn the bike off, then by hand wipe it down with a rag, then flick it back on or not, you don't have to and apply a nice even coat of lube. Job done

Architects can use the term, they are the side that deserve it as the hard graft gets put in It just annoys me some punks out there with no experience, and usually no real idea convince themselves they are one with no solid background My only consolation is he is like 22 stone now and developing health issues, seems the bad really do get punished sometimes...

GRRRR someone who I used to work with has annoyed me... The term engineer is used by everyone from architects to idiots right out of college. It's lost all its glamour because people these days brand themselves it as they had a job title or a piece of paper from a course they did that says so. It's almost like you don't have to work for it anymore. This chap got sacked for gross misconduct, instead of changing his ways he actually got worse. He went up to Scotland, and then instead of starting anew claimed he left rather than being sacked as he was being held back. He now lays claim to being an engineer... He was on the same uni course as me, I have worked my arse off to get a engineering based position, moved office, and while the pay is better this guy is now on 4 times more than me as he charges companies as an engineer . To be an engineer the old boys say it is experience over education any day of the week. And so as I only have education and a few years experience I am not one. So how does a fat, lazy, xbox addicted arse get to be one? His uni project didn't even work, mine is a functioning fuel injection unit and his was a wind turbine that broke the gearbox on its first try f**k it... No wonder the country is a mess

With more top speed you lose acceleration! But too big a sprocket and you lose more top speed as it becomes too much for the bike to handle! It's an 11BHP bike, you would need a full exhaust system, and lighting it anyway possible to keep acceleration the same and support a 2 tooth increase on the front sprocket. All for an extra 10mph or so

That bit is exposed to dirt and all the weather! You will need a lot of WD40 and heat to get that bolt out I would think

GOG http://sd.keepcalm-o-matic.co.uk/i/keep-calm-and-play-minecraft-210.png Always the answer

Until next week time

It should only have 1 inch or a bit more at 3cm of movement really... You adjust for the tight spot in the chain it. My old chain had a big tight spot and a big slack spot. The only way to fix it is to change the chain... At 3 inches slack I'd say the chain ran dry and was buggered! That's 7.5cm!!!

I'll join in, in a few weeks I used to do a lot of night time shoots, I used to explore derelict and abandoned buildings in Manchester in particular. Got some good shots, done some courses and some runs out, getting a camera in a couple of weeks (Canon 700D). Got some time off for my birthday around this time, will make the most of it