Fozzie

If you want to give rid or move on, you give me a call

Front sprocket is 2 bolts and a retainer! So unscrew, and move the retainer around a bit so it fits inbetween the splines of the output shaft. Remove sprocket Put new one on Put retainer and bolts back on but do NOT tighten those bolts too much, just as the bolt head nearly touches the sprocket give it half a turn and stop. Rear sprocket is just bolts off, bolts on affair Hope that helps

That MC20 is a beaut... Where can I find one of those?

Common failure with this bike! Another member did the same with the same bike and got a bad rumble from the bottom end. Solution? Buy a second hand engine. This one could possibly be had for around £375 if you made an offer http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2009-Yamaha-Y ... 2a2d6c6758 The engine is very simple by the way, tape everything up and write down what it is with lots of pictures, get the engine out, and start stripping it otherwise until you find the broken bit. I reckon the bottom end blew when it starved of oil.

Is it the air box this is leaking from? Or is it the fuel tank itself? Ive known dodgy fuel tanks, carb floats and so on that leak on these bikes. Can you upload a picture?

Chinese bikes will always fail! If you can I would find out what it replicates as if its a CG125 copy from Honda you are much better buying a working but written off one of those and transplanting the engine and electrics across. You would stand a better chance at having a reliable motor then!

Bike manual says 8000 miles I do it every 6000 miles It deserves a bit of love now doesnt it?

I have a similar issue, my fuel tank was left propped up when I was doing the CCT and when i left it someone walked by it and knocked it. The chip in paint isnt visible and I filled it in with nail polish which exactly matched the paint. But id like to sand it down and respray. Let a pro deal with it!

It does sound like that But as the voltage reading is off (given mine reads 13v when charging, anything over 14.5 or below 12v and its knackered). CBR600's have a know reg/rec fault. Always worth swapping it for an aftermarket one anyway.

Could tell the counter balance was out, its fiddly when putting it back together after a rebuild. Sounds like someone has been in there and rushed it back together. The engines are easy to work on though. Its bogged down which is quite normal, the bike does do 42mph in first if ragged to the top. What year model is it? The early ones had a CDI that had a port to plug in a power valve. This makes the bike more manageable in the low rpms and then it should make a loud click at idle between 6-8000rpm and it will give it a good top end. I believe there was a power valve on all pre 2003 models. After that due to emmisions they fitted a blanking plate instead and choke the exhaust so it could only make 15BHP. As joeman said, if it has a blanking plate instead of the powervalve it will have no power down low. It should still go with 4000rpm or more but be quite crap. If it needs to be screamed to even move there is an issue. Check for the powervalve, as if its there and stuck in full power mode it will kill the bottom end, if its not there and no blanking plate is fitted you will have a very big air leak into the exhaust and it will seize in no time and run badly, sometimes they trick you into thinking everything is fine when they accelerate well up top. Either way it sounds fuel related as these things are absolute buggers to set up "just right". Check the carb, give it a proper clean. Set it back to factory specs for your best chance of getting it right. See if this makes a difference and get back to me. Better yet make a video. When I had these I could tell from noise and the way it revved what the issue was.

Halfords stuff is actually very good It is too expensive a lot of the time but it has been much better lately. I got a 1/4 pro socket set for £20 and a normal 1/2 socket set for £40 when they were on offer. Best pair of socket sets ive had to date.

Top tip for making chain last longer... If it has centre stand put it up and then clean the chain with a proper cleaner. Use a tool or like me get some old tooth brushes, bathe the chain in degreaser and clean away. Use a spare rag to get it all wiped off then so no degreaser remains. Run the engine, sidestand up but on centre stand and wack it in first gear. Dont touch the chain, but get your chain lube and spray the chain on both top and bottom. Usually you hear a clacking noise of the chain being dry and this dissappears when it gets lubed. Make sure to use a good oil based lube. Stop the engine and get your spare rag and wipe surplus lube off! Now get your PTFE lube and apply a nice layer over the chain, my chain goes a pale colour when I do this but it locks in the lube and I swear by it. I do 25,000 miles a year, and so far I've done 4000 miles with a clean and re-lube every 500-750 miles in the last few months and not had to adjust the chain once

You should only be using a litre of oil or so... Just 1! But check your manual, I've not known a 125 use more than 1 litre when it was just a single cylinder. Upload a picture and I can tell you what it is

This is why you use some masking tape and a smart phone camera to remember where some bits go I could but its only because ive had to do this before with no reference. Get yourself an XR6 workshop manual, I downloaded one online when I worked on one.

My bike has been through 2 cam chain tensioners under me Replaced mine last week so I will post up some photos. I had to take off the fuel tank, air filter and its housing, RAM air induction tubes, the throttle bodies and a couple of auxiliaries around the fuel injection unit. And then access was still bloody shit. It made a rattle at 5000 rpm which i left for nearly a year, then it started to rattle all over the rev range. So I changed it and cleaned things up. Bike feels smoother and more powerful now But unless its rattling leave it alone. It will rattle when warm, cold, all the time, not in just one condition. That rattle could be cold components not fitting just right or lack of oil in some areas. So its probably just the clutch as mine makes noise when its in neutral with the clutch out.

Hate to tell you this, but what you are experiencing is normal. My RS50, XR6, RS125 all when started for 2 or 3 minutes if you rolled on the throttle fast would just choke and die. They also took a few miles to warm up and then be fine when the engine is warmed up. If this is the same for you, leave it alone. It's fine Unless someones going to say all my 2-strokes were broken, one of which was brand new and I'd rebuilt the others

It got delivered after I left work mate (I only do a 4 hour friday 7am-11am) But I know it's there for me to mess with in the coming week

Finished the roofing and lighting All insulated etc http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8394/8625164863_3fe172b23f.jpg Got to work cutting out more MDF, I got a cabinet to modify and use as a workbench http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8387/8625164613_2a253dae0a.jpg Put it against the wall, built in back board with lighting now working. Also note my new bench grinder and sockets built into the back board. Consumer unit is getting busy but nearly there now http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8266/8626272174_b5f6836171.jpg Put up some shelving but reducing it down over the next few weeks http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8387/8625164285_850b7328b3.jpg Just need to wait for my next pay check to get some flooring sorted and it's all done basically. Going to modify that other bench the same way and build in some lighting for it too, that way I will have a nice, level working area with bikes near it. It's turning into a proper little den now

Can you upload a picture of the plug? If there is white deposits on it then it is deffo running lean. The only time I got a little 125 to hop like that I'd left the choke on and it had warmed up so was running lean. If the plug is overly brown its rich, if overly white its lean. If lean which I suspect it is you need more fuel getting into the bike. Set everything to default factory setting, I wonder if your main jet is partially blocked?

I actually moved out a little while ago He loves what im doing to the place and as im getting him into motorbikes I just have to pay for electricity which is pennies and I get free reign over it. They werent using it for anything else! Joeman, I know only too well if I showed this to sparkies Id be lynched, they kick and scream

Yep, its running lean and from the sounds of it when its at speed so your main jet is the problem. Clean out the carb, set back to factory and if it still does it then try and upjet a few sizes. The plug should be fouled anyway by running lean but check and tell me what colour it is

Like I said, just testing so I used the hole knocked out already for me Diagonal yes, I know, I had the safe zones lectures already

Thought Id write this up as following this will be my Yamaha FZR600 build thread. So when I moved into my mates house it has something that resembled a garage... Unfortunately the old concrete roof was leaking thanks to moss overgrowth on the top allowing water to back track through an overlap and damage one of the beams. This is what it looked like inside and out: Old mattresses and crap taking up over half the space, damp floor, rotting bits and bobs. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8057/8254817700_0358603fc7_z.jpg The outer view http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8349/8283774817_8b1d7a160c_z.jpg So firstly I addressed the leaking roof, I tried PVA glue, it didnt work, I tried expanding foam, it worked a bit and I tried waterproofer. It became apparent that the damage to the beam had made it bow a bit and as a result there was a slight dip water could pour up. So I decided to wrap the top of the roof in a tarpaulin. It's now weighed down with drainage provided and has been working well since. This is it nearly completed, it now has metal pipes running from the top down to the bottom draining water off it and weighing it down. It is roped down on the sides into ground anchors I made up. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8358/8349416933_d270fcff71_z.jpg The next port of call was the roof on the inside, i used water proofer to seal off the asbestos roof and so I could have peace of mind. Along with expanding foam I sealed all parts where the roof overlapped. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8354/8287908742_0619fc979b_z.jpg After this I pulled everything out and cleared it all up. I then worked overtime and got the whole inside painted and reduced it so it looked like this: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8047/8420076565_e651384166_z.jpg Now onto powering it and lighting it properly. It just had a 30 amp cable running from a 13a fused switch in the house. The cable is able to manage much more so I uprated the fuse to a 30amp fused switch in the house, ran a new cable and fitted a new consumer unit. Here is me testing it: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8585814695_de64fd3464_z.jpg I have begun converting the old cabinet in there into a bench. I have some plywood to sit on top of it to absorb any nasty blows. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8586915366_72c0f7c804_z.jpg I have also started fitting my new inner roof, it is properly insulated and fitted using a wooden skeleton to mount it on so it can be easily removed. It will be being painted when fully fitted. Furthermore I have just installed another fluorescent light and have 2 more 5 foot lights to fit on the other end of the garage. But here we are today. New lights can be seen as well as the first few panels fitted. Just 5 more to go and then some trim pieces to hide any small gaps. I have also boarded up one of the windows and the old door, which didnt work. They had holes in them etc so were just a security risk. Better to board and paint them next week when I go for the next round. It will all merge in nicely. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8265/8610224301_68195f9a6c_z.jpg Still to come: Studded rubber flooring A new workbench coming in modified to take some small 20w fluorescent lights to light small bits i work on Bench vice Lathe Mill I will strikeout as I get them This has been a good project, I've learnt a huge amount about various things. I am trained to fit consumer units and sub-1000v appliances but doing it all on my own accord is great. I love the freedom I will have more pictures by the end of the week with hopefully the completion of the roof and the working appliances so I can get started on my Yamaha project

http://images.wikia.com/familyguy/images/2/2e/Evil_Monkey.gif Doooo eeeet!

Fill it up sitting on the bike too, that makes a couple of litres difference (20 miles or so)