Fozzie

Looks like it got caught or wasn't seated properly... I wonder why that happened. When you piece it back together, show us a picture with the new sprocket fitted. Should be able to see what the issue is then if there is one!

I happen to know a YZF-R125 can do 10 hours a day, 250-400 miles a day, for 10 days no problem Oh and if you break down... Check the battery Ricky... Ricky... Battery My CBR is developing the cam chain tensioner rattle of death so can't really do the mileage and to top it off, Moo's knee can't do 3 hour journeys as I found out taking her up north. So looks like a day visit isn't possible this time round

Blast... If I wasn't so busy these next few weeks I'd have done it for a pack of cookies Easiest way is get a centre punch and mark exactly where the hole is going to go, then use a 4mm drill bit or so (I would use), and make a pilot hole. Get the drill lined up, on the correct setting and build up the speed to a decent pace and apply pressure as the drill bit bites. Once it's through just fit the 10mm bit and line it up so it's sitting central, a quick check either side that it's not at an angle (an inbuilt spirit level on the drill is good here) and you're good to go.

A 0.05 litre vehicle struggles to get a wet plug so as I said before it probably is working, just the size of engine draws so little it would be hard to notice, and they are also very sensitive to such issues due to being so small. Basically the timing was out just enough the engine worked like an overpriced pump, pulling fuel in, not sparking in the right amount of time to cause an effective combustion to turn over, then spraying it out into the exhaust.

Could an earth be at fault?

How did it shear in the first place? Really hard to say what to do... My instinct is to say you should use a very small drill and drill identical bores down the middle of the rod, tap them out and then use a stud you screw in and tighten it together again. But I don't know if the adjuster rod is thin enough or if a threaded stud small enough even exists without getting jiggy with a lathe. Solder sounds like it would break again all too easily What about just a new cartridge? Surely you don't need a full assembly?

Maybe you have a spark but a weak one? Have you tried a new coil and battery? For example, Bikermoos CBF was turning over after it had diesel put in it, and the battery died, I ran it up the road with the plug out and the bike in gear to charge it back up over the course of an hour. And then it would spark but it was too weak to fire so needed to really be run hard down a hill. Coils often break down over time and steadily just die. Maybe you've lost the intensity of spark required to get good combustion.

Is the plug dry? To be fair as it's a 50cc it's hard to get wet (giggity) But maybe the timing is the wrong way round, and this is VERY easily done on little bikes. Fuel could be going in on the wrong stroke, but the beauty of it being the wrong way round means that you won't spot it being that way easily, as no valves will be bent if the valves are opening on downward strokes. I've done it before early into my 4-stroke tinkering days, takes ages to suss it!

Turn the fuel tap ON Has it got petrol and a new battery? Take off any fuel tap and direct run fuel to the carb.

Generally I hear the Honda CBF is now the one to have, whereas before the YBR was much the same as the CG.

Pirelli Speed Demons!!! Absolute best for that bike wet and dry... I hope you're checking the oil weekly now A big f**k it for my insurance... Due to my previous claims and "changes" to insurance the policy on my CBR600F sport will renew for £1395 as a cheapest... While I could handle this I am contemplating a brand spanking new VW car so probably time to get a 500 and just borrow my dads bikes from time to time

Why not just wire it up but use your own switch system, and mount a tiny switch like a kick stand switch on the gear lever? Would be something to try surely to perfect your design?

Wouldn't touch a Peugeot bike with a barge pole... Hardly any spares and the French has never gotten to grips with doing "good electrics"

Starting the bike after it being off for so long can be damaging to the rings and the top end as it dries out over time, I'd be making sure the valves are all the right clearance now as an old SV of mine was sat for 6 years and after a dry start and run, I could only deduce it came from the factory that way OR the valve clearances had gone out a fair bit! But have the carbs sat in a bowl of petrol and carb cleaner for a day, then dry them out before you attempt to dismantle them as an old suzuki will be more than certainly rusted tight.

Weird... Usually connecting a charger to the wrong terminals causes lots of sparks and problems. But the charger might not pack enough juice! Connect it again and check the battery with a multi-meter. Could be the battery is so low it's expired and now won't accept charge off a charger. I've had that happen a few times.

Cam chain is cold when it starts, the metal then warms and expands and it rattles. Simples Wait to see if it goes away when the cam chain tensioner moves a click, it sounds like it's doing its job still as if it went up a click and the chain went cold again it could be too tight on start ups which just leads to more wear! The engine picks up odd noises as it gets older, mainly as things get a little looser but still within tolerance.

Just remove the injector and put the end into a bottle and turn the car on and see what it's doing You should get a near constant heavy mist.

I know how that one feels, you mislabel one thing on a drawing and that's it... They send it back... Had this with our client who is out in Jakarta... We supplied them with new drawings, I think one got replicated and added in. They wanted to know if it was a different drawing or a mistake. Told them it was a mistake. Then, rather than throw it in the bin and me wipe it off the system, they sent it back, with a query that I then had to answer before deleting it... The engineering sector takes 40% longer to manufacture its projects on average now. I can see why!

The engine is usually good on most of the chinese bikes, it's their electrics. I've often wondered what would happen if you were to take a chinese bike that inevitably broke down after a few thousand miles and fitted a loom from say a CG125 to it. Sinnis seem to have a better record, Hyosung are the best but they are vanishing now as they haven't made enough money out here!

Is it running ok when cold? If it splutters everywhere could be a dodgy coil if it only happens when warm, they often fail and then break down when hot.

The prat in sunglasses and gay hair in a Vauxhall Astra... I was on the roundabout, he came from my left firing onto it like a bat out of hell and I had to brake to avoid his car. He looked right at me. He then tries to run off knowing what he's done, checking his mirror constantly. I chase. As I catch him he darts right down a side road leading to the same main road as me, I rag it and beat him there, now he's not looking at me at all. Big man...

Sometimes 1mm makes all the difference

If it's structural welds on a motorbike sub-frame for instance, MIG will be all you need all day long I can arc/MIG/TIG weld and of the 3 I prefer MIG, and then arc. MIG is colder than arc welding but it is more than strong enough, when I do work I prefer to use a MIG and grind back the weld flush with the surface. Unless a neat weld is what you're looking for? Arc is good but you get a small amount of spatter. I maintain TIG is the stronger weld, it's the best due to its versatility and high weld quality but for general fabrication it's a bit OTT if you're good with a MIG.

It's almost certainly got to be water in the fluid if it's only doing it when hot! Happened on a bike where the fluid was so old it had gone beyond the brown colour to black mould. Bleeding is easier than brakes usually, bleed nipple on the clutch end just needs a pipe attached, then pump the clutch lever and bleed the same as brakes, but access is easier and usually there's less piping running fluid to it. But if a cable conversion exists then I do advocate for that instead.

Either way it's been read to be wrong as the error code is there, which means a new one is in order. So either way it was broken and needed fixing. If it still isn't right we will get on to what else could be causing it