Fozzie

Just work off lengths as many different manufacturers will do the right length shock! Then look at where its from, so if its sports it will be firm and I would suppose a street/sports tourer setup is what you want though if its adjustable that wont matter too much

It lined up perfectly, the size of it was tight and I did have to file down one end of the supports as it was too long but we're talking minor stuff. The holes lined up and didnt even require spacers! I will add I just fitted a GSXR600 shock to a K4 SV650 so Suzukis definately seem to interchange their part sizes!

There are some sites with a lot of information on this, they come with dimensions so you want to find which ones fits and then which one you think suits your needs My bike currently runs a CBR1000RR shock. Its to fit a RR swingarm but I have found it to be very good, firms up the rear and stops it fishing when braking hard. But thats tailored to my needs and I like to ride everywhere at the quickest possible speed allowed

Unless you get a compressor with a spray gun attachment then spray can is probably the best way! I suggest VHT paint, get it on ebay. Its very durable. You can get it in anodized colours as well. Just make sure to prime it first, keep it held away far enough that it dusts it well without building up as thats how you get drips. Do a few fine sprays and use Polecats guide. Do passes from left to right, allow to dry then do it right to left. Flip it over and get any parts you didnt hit

Couple of places up north I know do a suspension setup depending on how you ride and how much you weigh etc. Costs less than £100 for a setup using stock suspension. And obviously skys the limit if you go further!

Its what I thought... Seen a YZF slow from its top speed of 84mph to 66mph because its valves were out. Its a regular adjustment to make on 125s

Saw this when it first happened Still funny now! I registered and posted on there I think saying hello.

Good review

As its only a year old I imagine it will just be a simple oil and filter change but check air filter etc... Everybike is different but I doubt a valve clearance or anything like that is any time soon

Mine was something daft like £1.20 Dont buy the branded indicator relay, just get the right spec relay and use the old connector to wire it into. Takes about 10 minutes to sort and is less wiring and faffing about than resistors. Also uses less power as the resistors are there to effectively just warm up and waste power to slow the flash rate. My bike is known for reg/rec failure so Im trying to keep the strain on the battery to a minimum out of paranoia

Went yesterday and I was glad I did! More bikes being unveiled, the middle class bikes are making a come back, from 300cc ninjas, to 500cc CBRs I'm liking that they are finally bridging the gap between 125 and 600cc. Ive always felt it was needed as I want a secondary to get around town but isnt as breathless as a 125. Finally theyve addressed it! (That and the new middle license promotes them well)

Tail lights are always fine as they run off the same voltage just pull less ampage off the line usually Indicators, just replace with a LED relay, one part for all 4 indicators.

My bike is just yours a few years newer and it got a judder when the pads were worn! Replaced with carbon lorraine pads, and hel stainless lines and rebuilt the calipers. Been stronger than ever since...

Its very cold at the moment... Apply full choke and allow to warm up for over 5 minutes then kill the choke. If it stutters and struggles or dies try and adjust the idle speed at the carb.

I warn anyone really... We all have days we dont pay attention or are rushing a bit. However if I'm in London and you are a 17 year old chav whose nicked his dads merc then Ill tap my head. If they are as silly as I think they are they wont know what it means. However if they are smart they'll know the fuzz are in town

Sounds like the head gasket has been blown from running dry, Either that or something is fecked somewhere, like the crank was damaged and is now spinning and its creating a lot more friction than it should and heating things right up. Or you have a top end rebuild on your hands. In a situation like this I would rebuild the entire engine and check everything to find the worn parts. To cause what your describing there will be something in there that is mangled.

As the bike lost electrical power that quick I blame that... Seems a rec/reg failure either cooking or failing the battery. The back wheel will lock when you bump it, the bike has a long stroke like a motocross bike so you need 2nd or 3rd gear. Even then it will still lock, you have to catch it right and that takes patience and skill with the clutch

Good shout, Now I know your not a robot Wack up more pictures, its the best way to get people interested. If we see your cause we will be more likely to drop you a quid or two here and there

Hmmmm... The fact its copied and pasted from your site and you havent done a proper job of introducing yourself I'm suspicious. The grammar in your title is pretty suspect. You have no personal background to trace who you are just so we can verify who you are. A facebook link is fairly common on legitimate fund raisers. You look very much alike to some of the scammers for many more reasons, so I'm just going to report you instead as its near on blatently a scam right now. You might have very unfortunately made yourself look a scammer... Otherwise kindly prove as right now I think guilty until proven innocent applies to you

I unseized an old bikes brakes recently, I undid the banjo and drained the brake fluid, relieving some pressure then took off the caliper. You should be able to get the caliper off it's main mounts, if they are seized or you've rounded them you narrow your options. Get an angle grinder and delicately grind a slot into the bolt head, then with your biggest flat head screwdriver try and twist. But use plenty of WD40 after the slot is cut. And if you dont have a angle grinder try to borrow one or use a hacksaw if the angle permits it. But try and get some heat and WD40 on it first

To simplify as people dont seem to quite get the point from the explanation Stu and Chrissb6 HID's: Legal when fitted as standard Legal when fitted to an existing headlight where the reflector has been removed Illegal when fitted with a reflector still in the headlight Illegal when it comes with an auto level that doesnt work So in essence if you want to fit them follow this short summary: Remove the reflector, either have a working auto leveller or none at all and make sure you fit it properly.

Just thought Id throw in something here... Just because you dont need full beam anymore with them does not mean you are filling the area with light. More, the area which is normally lit by dipped beam (the road surface) is much more greatly extended. So while the glare can be bad I knew someone with them and the trick simply was to set them ever so slightly lower than what was set for MOT, this filled the area and didnt blind anyone My experience seems to contradict others.. I hate the ones with reflectors. Once I was riding with a bike fitted with it following, had the HID fitted and then a normal high beam. Id adjusted the low beam down as requested as people kept saying it was too bright. Then wondered why I couldnt see them flashing even though I didnt move the high beam, which was on a separate rail as the HID was still so bright I couldnt see the normal high beam shining through it clearly.

My hand writing always looks rushed but thats just how it is, and I can do it with both hands like my grandad... I discovered quite late, I learned how to write with my left hand then went over to my right. However I use both hands for a multitude of tasks. I wear my watch on the right wrist, which is typical of left handed people but I've always done it due to how I learned to write. I vary on how I use cutlery etc. But all this I sort of noticed every now and again, but my girlfriend recently noticed me jotting away with my left hand because I was at an angle on my sofa and it was easier. Since then I've noticed I will write quite alot with my left hand but more just out of habit. And it doesnt effect my riding ability, I have no preference for cornering though, but I used to sway from left handers to right handers

Do what Megawatt said... Because above all else, the right amount of procedure and patience will always prevail. (usually ) If no access to a blow torch or means of heating it, switch the engine on and let it get hot, then blast some freezing fluid on it. About all I can add!

White is not always ok, if it is thick and bluey its burning oil. Black can simply be excessive petrol in the engine. Usually means a clogged air filter