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I usually suggest buying some cones from anywhere local finding an un-used car park and practising inbetween DAS lessons on your 125cc but your signature looks like you don't currently own a bike. Seems like you've got yourself a deal so the "shop around" tactic is not needed. I think there's nothing really outside of the DAS lessons you can do to prepare without a bike, few tips though; - Arriving at the test centre park your bike facing forwards (makes it easy to jump on and rider into the test centre). - Always park your bike in the right hand box on the manual handling (allows you to simply u-turn it by pushing it). - Get used to really using the front brake and dipping the front end / compressing the forks on the emergency stop. - Don't forget the shoulder check on the U-Turn. and absolutely no feet on the ground = instant fail.

google search "huoniao owners" first link is the forum you'll need, I use it as well as I have a chinese branded bike. Plenty of people on there with that bike that have endless amounts of knowledge, might get more answers related to that bike over there. Go onto the "basic information and guides" section from the main page, and then click the "very basic information" post 2nd from top (sticky), tells you all you need to now about the basics of your bike. And no problem glad I could help

This is what your bike looks like?.. If so basically the same as the lexmoto vixen and other re-branded versions. http://s9.postimg.org/yh9c9ojpb/lexmoto_vixen.jpg The fuel handle point upwards would be reserve, the handle sidewards is off and the handle pointing downwards is main tank.

If all fuel taps are the same Down = Main Up = Reserve Middle = Off

Just another one to mention, if you haven't already booked it.. booking it with a training school that use the actual test site is always handy.

Don't book your Module 2 before you have the Module 1 pass certificate in your hand. Also get yourself down to an empty car park on your 125 and do some cone bashing, measure of the distances and get used to doing the different parts of the tests, it all help teach you the basics of control on a much more forgiving bike that wont shoot a 100 miles into the distance and throw you off if you let the clutch out to fast. Basics like observations before moving off, look where you want to go, slow moving clutch and throttle control, being confident in getting 32mph in 2nd gear, ability to countersteer. Took me about 1-2 hours of cone bashing on my 125 the day before my actual Mod 1, aced all the slow control parts of the test, failed on the latter. Get used to really compressing your front forks and breaking sharply when attempt the emergency stop.

Machines are set up to be sold in roadworthy condition, it's the time before the sale spent inspecting the machine that faults should be spotted and pointed out and asked to be corrected, best to always go with someone to inspect it closely. Since you've got limited warranty I'd advise taking it out for a decent run once you've got the chain sorted that way you can see if there's anything else that needs attending to best to use the warranty while you've got it.

Don't bring up the subject of money if the shop doesn't, I've been in a few times and stood with the mechanics while they've made a few quick adjustments.. hasn't cost me a penny and as a result continued custom so pays off in the long run, admittedly my bikes also under warranty as is my first so probably should pick up a haynes manual myself as you only have to pay for one service to realise the true cost of not having the basic mechanical knowledge. Just ask if there's a chance you could pop in and have it adjusted and also advised on when the chain and sprockets will next need replacing, might be work asking if the mechanic can show you themselves as they know what they're talking about (most of the time) and also its in their interest so that they're not receiving phone calls all the time asking about fairly easily solved issues.

As above, T&C's of the warranty should be able to answer that question. Personally I wouldn't jump to the automatic assumption that it needs replacing all depends on how many miles have been covered while fitted and how well it's been looked after, if you are going to replace the chain from what I understand heavy duty chains have a longer life and need adjusting less often. Phone the shop up and ask them if they've got five minutes to take a look and adjust your chain correctly, purchase some chain lube and cleaner while your their and then apply when at home (many rookie mistakes to be had in this process, believe me). I really wouldn't ride it any further than to the shop as it sounds like it's far to loose at the moment, if you find that there is a cost incurred and you either are unwilling or unable to pay it then watching a few videos on youtube or purchasing the haynes manual for your year and model of bike may be of great way for you to learn the basic tasks required to keep your machine in as good a condition as possible.

A phone with charge, credit and recovery and insurance numbers, although I also carry money with me in the event that leaving the bike somewhere and getting the bus is the better option that pushing it home. The basic tool kit that came with the bike (replaced for sturdier like for like tools), electrical tape and spare L plates (in the event mr plod doesn't like how I've got them set up) and allen keys. Everything else depends on what season I'm riding in, for example during winter I used to carry all my work clothing and items all the time however now that the weathers a little warmer I travel as lightly as possible leaving all possible items at work, no more than my locks and a bottle of water at this time of year.

I do question if some cagers even have a license. Travelling down a 30MPH A road, cars parked on the side of the left lane (against the kerb) basically blocking it, cager decided he not only wanted to tailgate me but squeeze between the gap of me (position 2 in the right hand lane) and the parked cars few seconds latter after he got some clear space in the left lane almost rear ended a car that was slowing down to turn left. He caught up again further up the road and ended up tailgating again, moved over in to the left lane best satisfaction was that out of all this he'd only gained about one car position forward of me. I recall him almost side swiping another car that was turning left at some point. A bit of money + dodgy paperwork = right to drive for some people by the look of their lack of road skill.

Full face > open face, just my opinion. Yes helmets vary in the amount of wind noise that you hear, I had a budget Frank Thomas helmet as my first ever then upgraded to an AGV using the line "it's changed the way I ride" just because a helmet with all the features that meets your needs and is comfortable makes the ride that much easier. Sadly wind noise is not something you can determine by trying the helmet on only by asking for advice or reading reviews before hand. Bottom of a J&S reciept; " J&S Accept no responsibility for goods found to be noisy marked or an incorrect fit after the time of purchase", although on most days they'll change your helmet for the correct size one provided it doesn't have marks etc.. so there is some leeway, sadly I'd say your stuck with it. Do you research and get yourself a full face lid when funds allow, if the wind noise isn't pleasant on light gusting sunny days imagine what it will be like when the weather gets worse. Maybe try ear plugs to improve the comfort of the ride in the mean time, as for listening to the sound of your bike I'd say the line "if it aint broke, don't fix it" comes into play, as long as there isn't something funky happening while out and about then you'll be fine, and if there is just open the helmet and you'll have more noise provided than a anyone with a full face ever would.

RST Trachtech Evo have two boots the coloured air cooled summer version and the plain all black non vented waterproof version. I recently got the waterproof version, had a little bit of wear and tear on the lower front of the boot (right where the boot is put together with the sole) .. (I assume form people trying them on and not taking care) but with a convincing price reduction I decided that the damage was so small that it was to good an offer to pass up. Don't let the above put you off, just ensure you inspect the boot very closely when trying them on for signs of wear (from other people doing the same and not taking care). Alternatively.. I tried on some Alpinestar SMX-5's looked very nice (when fitted), the toe slider looked a bit flimsy as well as the fact they're not waterproof (witch was a big no no for me), they're certainly light on the foot though.. walked around in them and the RST on the other and could notice the difference so I'd say they're a safe bet if you're going to be walking around a big shop or town etc. (The above comparison between the RST and SMX-5 was the RST Waterproof not the vented version). Some people say RST gloves aren't great in general others disagree, with gloves I'd say find your size and try a few pairs on, scrunch your hands up into a fist and see how they feel as you'd be imitating pulling the clutch of brake in by doing this. Also.. oxford do some under thermal layers at a very cheap price might be worth buying to wear under the leather so that you don't end up feeling not so fresh when you get off the bike (of course they're worn in replacement of a top and jeans but don't feel out of place at all).

On the AGV front the AGV K3 didn't fit me but the AGV K3 SV did, and encase the OP is wondering the K3 SV has more upgraded than just a sun visor

Got the RST Blade (WP) about 2 months ago; - Holds of the worst of the rain I've ridden in - Not to warm (even in the recent heat) - No loose stitching or signs of falling apart (as you'd expect) I used them straight after purchase from the shop and found it took a little while to get used to them and bed them in also just to get the general feel of the levers. I'd say you don't even need an under-glove when riding in the cold weather plenty of warmth in these.

From what I read leather in itself is not waterproof thus meaning a layer of waterproof spray will need to be applied to the gear you purchase to ensure you don't end up getting caught out, IMO though it's another risk and another task you could avoid by buying textiles, the only thing I have to worry about is pulling over and removing the inner lining and putting it in my bag if it's to warm, not turning around and going back home because I'm soaked. Not sure about the technical but in reality people ride around in kevlar jeans, some don't even wear gear.. it's whatever you get onto your bike wearing and think "if I do go down, I'm glad I spent every penny I did so that I can get back up" all personal preference although in honesty for either to be tested to it's limits you'd be potato'd anyway.. and that.. is not the aim. I wear a AGV helmet on a chinese 125.. I don't think you've got anything to worry about, care less about what you look like and more about how comfortable you'd be riding around in the gear you own.

For jackets, boots and trousers; - RST - Alpinestar - Dainese For helmets; - AGV - Arai - Sheoi - Schuberth You have to ask yourself what type of riding your going to be doing, there's no reason why (and as in your case if you can afford it) why the creme of the crop in terms of gear shouldn't be worn but will you really be getting the most out of it if you're only commuting (as I do), today I upgraded my jacket to the RST Blade Sport (WP) had the funds to get the better RST Trachtech textile jacket but it had one of those race style protectors on the rear of the neck something that on my little 125 on the roads would look a laughing stock. I use "sportsbikeshop" to take a look at gear online before making a short list and looking in my local J&S and trying them on, another question is do you want to ride in rain and the cold or are you only going to be riding through the warmer times.. often brands will do two version of the same item as opposed to a two in one. I personally prefer textiles, two in one in terms of being able to be used throughout the warmer times and the winter (as I ride all seasons), remove the thermal lining when its warm and vis versa also waterproof so if it goes from a glorious day to tipping it down i'm not effected or caught out and end up soaking. Just don't walk into a shop and state you have a big budget to spend, do your own research, go with another biker and get second opinions, I purchased very cheap gear for my first set and learnt my mistakes the hard way, needless to say I'm glad I wasn't the kid in a candy store with more money than sense when first starting out.

Hi all, After some second opinions on what combination of biking gear to purchase next, recent warm temperatures has left me wondering if it would be best to start commuting in some kevlar jeans and a street boot as opposed to full textiles and sport styled boot. Also walking around town in full textiles is a pain and would be nice to have something less heavy and full on, easier to walk around in and look less like a spaceman all the time. I already have a full set of textiles and sport boots, the third option is more to upgrade the level of armour and protection as well as just to match the rest of my already upgraded gear.. more for looks than really required (although my boots will probably need replacing soon, current ones are literally falling apart). Any opinions, thanks.

Take it back to the shop ASAP with the original receipt and ask for an exchange as the helmet you purchased is not fit for purpose disregard the scratches and you've basically got to ask yourself if the helmet would do you any good in a crash.. it's falling apart from day to day wear and tear (something no helmet budget or not should ever do). See what their response is and go from there. J&S always have the Frank Thomas helmets on sale for about £40-50 (not cheap, but not expensive), although I purchased one (not sure of what model) more pain that's it's worth.. a visor mechanism that needed two hands to open when fully closed, a visor that fogged up endlessly and quite a bit of wind noise although I did have the wrong size I had a XL.. my current AGV helmet is ML.. in summary even when showing J&S (had only been riding about a month or two) that the helmet would come loose when pushed upwards and could be moved around when fitted they still said it's a good fit, trust yourself. If the shop refuse to exchange it and say your stuck with it then just hang it up on your wall as memorabilia, I really wouldn't trust it to be worth anything more than that.

The cager who decided that instead of waiting behind traffic blocking his lane onto the exit he decided to cut into the left one instead, even with the sound of my horn he decided to continue, not a single fek given. Shame the lights ahead where on green and eventually he got to far ahead for my little 125 to catch up

The problem with apps and websites dedicated to allow you to practice for the theory test is that there question base will not always be up to scratch therefore your either learning questions that have no reverence on the test or are outdated, IMO they'd be good to refresh your memory after held your full license for a while to pass the actual test I'd be questioning them. DSA Free Mock Theory; http://www.safedrivingforlife.info/take ... e-practice £20 Theory + Hazard Perception DVD; https://www.safedrivingforlife.info/sho ... m-software Honestly the hazard perception part of the test is so sensitive it requires more understanding than a finicky clutch (great comparison there).. for me having passed 1st time I'd say without the DVD's it wouldn't of been possible to understand how that part of the test works. All in all.. spend the £20 and get it right first time, think of your reaction if you have to go home having failed all because you didn't want to spend a little bit of money, put the time in you'll get the reward.

A bus into town and a bus out to get to my dealership when picking it up from a service etc. Needless to say walking around town and sitting on a bus with full textiles gets some strange looks

Congrats. Did you foot come of the peg in an attempt to touch the floor or completely flat foot on the floor to stabilise you, lucky either way but it's out the way now and focus on getting the Module 2 and that full license. At least some examiners appreciate that we all have a wobble time and again, especially on a test environment.

You manage to get a look at the layout of the test pad and gauge the size of it? Also arrive early next time and look at what direction the U-Turn is laid out in, enables you to have a quick attempt and refresh before doing it for real, helped me with because the distance between the two white lines where only just wider than the distance of the gate.. so I just lined myself up with the outside of the gate and attempt it a couple of times.. needless to say when it came to the real thing the hardest part was trying to fit the shoulder check in. Might be worth using whatever spare time you have between now and the 8th to do some cone bashing in a local car park and practice the emergency stops on an empty road. Good luck

Serious fault on the emergency stop resulting in a instant fail. Strong crosswinds at roughly 20mph (estimated 40-60mph winds) throughout the day, bad timing in terms of weather.. blown of course on the approach to the bend and also opened the throttle to early on the exit of the bend and entry to the speed trap resulting in being 5mph to slow, most importantly failed on breaking more in a "casual way" than an "emergency", not sure if it was how I applied the brakes or the distance I stopped in. Already re-booked another attempt ready to get that pass. For a first ever attempt without any training I'd say a small mistake to make, costly.. lesson learnt.