slugworth1987

sorry not sure what its real name was but you knew what i ment right? lol

wd 40 = degreaser+penertration oil! bad move u may of just killed the piston o ring

stick an arm strong starter on it

im gonna get very wet lol

ok well if you mean the ignition try a colour match 1st as its a switch it shouldnt matter as a switch isnt "poled" unlike a diod or LED switches, bulbs etc dont have a + or - effectivly

you mean the ignition?

all the details of yourr battery should be on the manufactors website with all the info you will need. as for your question i dont know because your forum posts are hard to read and understand please try to use formal engish and try to spell check words your not sure about. my spelling is bad also so i normaly type up in MS Word 1st. sean

does anyone know what the weather is doing sat yet? i've seen fridays and ikt doesnt look good,...

Remove Batt If Lead Constant Potential (Voltage) If Ni-Cd Constant Current (Amps) charge Batt will be either 12v or 6v depending Red into + terminal Black into - terminal Time to charge a dead lead acid battery is 23 hours if cells have been under 7v for a prolonged time concider cells unusable and dispose of battery correctly. Current in mAh (mA or A may be used) displayed on the battery shows the current charge 12v on lead should be around 1A no more than 2A i think!!! dont quote me on it. WHEN CHARGING A BATT REMOVE IF FROM THE BIKE !!! FAILIAR TO DO SO CAN RESULT IN DAMAGE TO WIRING AND COMPONANTS ON THE BIKE. STORE AND CHARGE IN A WELL VENTELATED DRY COOL PLACE WHILE CHARGING!!! FAILIAR TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN PERSONAL OR INJURY TO OTHERS. RISK OF EXPLOSION, RISK OF CHEMICAL BURNS, RISK OF FIRE I DO NOT TAKE RESPONSABLITLY TO DAMAGE TO PERSON(s) OR EQUIPMENT NOR PROPERTY IF APPLICABLE

i think i over tightend it when i put the new plates in... all but 2 strands snapped so yeah not good

clutch cable just snapped

yep the pipe is caked and starting to rust so wanna clean it up lol

just an update: New clutch Fitted Red LED back bulb installed Sat Nav holder installed White LED (compter mod lol) put under the Break Light Lens wired into back bulb. Front headlight adjusted Full reloob of chain, cogs, speedo, tacho etc. Todo List: Clean Exhaust Baffal and Exhaust pipe clean carb

ill be on my BWM 80RT 1984 model oh yeah

bike, side bags, top box, tank bag, burgan sorted

contacted MCN, Superbike etc? maybe a good idea they like these kinda things https://jsaccessories.co.uk/ also why not try local bike & accessorie shops a few ideas

bbq n beer? ace ill bring the JD lol ah and i have sat nav lol yay for sat nav (its my dads)

hey all need an idea on what i can use instead of gasket blue sealent as i dont have any and just finshed work...

tanky shall be up sat i hope is camping still there?

70 mile trip... HELL YEAH ill be there will need to leave same time again is there a full address i can have so i can google the map up? (tank bag so goooooood)

i didnt get to the station i couldnt leave the drive lol the night before on my way home from work the clutch was alot worse than normal so when got to the place where i eat after a shift in the pub i saw my mate who said adjust cable a little to sort out the slack and order a new one he could feel it slipping to on a quick ride oon the side road. and that morning there was nothing no power to the wheel just an idle spin even with gas added just an idle spin _______________________________________________________________ EDIT: the oil inspection was me making sure the engine or other part of tthe oil doused system wasn't chewing its self to bits i did though find metal particals this morning next to my front cog stuck in chain grease i assume its teeth wear or chain as its outside the engine caseing

not sure sump is right word i had to remove : oil filter & oil resivour casing where the clutch is on my bike's engine (right hand side) there is a clutch cover you can remov but to get to it you have to take the side off anyway dumb... ill get some photos and post them up 2morrow i have looked at the plates also and tthe mid section of the clutch (row 3 and 4?) are well metal. now what i would call tread on one plate (driven?) and the one that is pure stainless with what look like center punches (driver?) are well the little dimples are gone the front 2 plates are wearing and the back 2 are like new still i know its not balenced and theory says swap em and try again but also commen sence says your gonna do more dammage... i know the gears are fine because it will shift up and down happly and spin the wheel but with no extra power withh gas applied. my uncal a big biker (40 years) said clutch is dead inspect it and then order if the plates are good gearing is the next bit, if gearing is good then well the engine wouldnt work i assume? the clutch is going to cost me £50 on tues before postage from ebay (Brooks Barn Ltd) i have purchased parts from them before good lot. the oil filter has no metal shards in it and the oil i filtered again just to make sure was clean apart from the crap out the drip tray (or plant pot in my case) the oil wont be used again i assure you new filter will be replaced after clutch has worn in a little

after a 10 min warm up and no power to the wheel even on 3k, 4k 5k and 6k? (rpm)

it was slipping anyway and this morning there was nothing like it was just trying to pull off like i holding the bike on a hill for a hill start but the lever wasnt being touched. normaly when the bike is on the stand no wheel moving apart from the vibration making the wheel move well ossalate but there was no clutch control at all just stuck

i didnt even have that just more power applyed just more noise no go and every gear was the same just idle power