slugworth1987

great thanks alot i dont mind if they dont fit the bike 100% lol its only a CBR125 so not expecting a 100% fit

a high vis jacket, slow ride and try to dig out a HID/Xeon replacment bulbs. also ride with full beam as much as possable to light up the road a little bit... sould try adding a HID light on a sepret switch as a floodd light i guess... haha

these any good? http://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=901543

goodo saves you striping the entire system haha hope this fixed the issue as a perm not a temp repair if i where you i would look into splicing or crimping the terminals as a long term fix

need a new flasher me thinks and then alot of re-wireing lol

i know that the old dual filaments are usless so im looking for an upgrade even if i have to rig a new esay in

lol thanks anyway i not picked mine up yet the p/n is on the side i know that much think they msaybe the same as my old bike...

a link will be helpful to the manual if you got it online but there just power ratings bulbs have part numbers and im trying to find a xeon or halagin alt to the normal front bulbs, and the rear bulb i have an LED replacment and LED replament bulbs for the blinkers and find the new relay for the blinkers lol

looking for bulb numbers on the cbr125r i know the rear brake/tail is a 380, the front are 35w/35w but no help from there and the rest i have no idea if someone ould enlighten me i would be really thankful

any of it AF? lol all my tools have to be AF... RS Componatns (also sell amp/tyco tooling) have a BOGOF atm on some items

Falcom + Craftsman

sounds to me like an over voltage/amp this could be caused bu either Relay OR your regulator... like with LEDs they draw less current so a new rlay is required but if the current increases alot the relay will work quicker due to more power. so to me i would say start with the cheap option... get a multimeter and test the power coming from the regulator you will have to work this out your self from a book or internet

http://www.cromwell.co.uk/

cromwell.com draper, kenedy etc, use these on aircraft so quility is good for a bike you dont need much really 1/4 drive ratchet and socket set maybe a 3/8 drive and sockets. screw drivers (PH 1, 2 and Flat Maybe PZ and TORX) stanly blade for the gasket removal on metal and a metric spanner set oh and a hammer very useful a small tack hammer. crimper and crimps/splices speed brace maybe and ratchet Spanners are usfull, locking wire pliers if you lock wire (safety wire) pipes or instead of cotter/split pins lol

BMW Gortex 2 peice J&S Jacket With back plate, shoulder, elbow, chest guards J&S Kevlar Jeans (Blue) Gortex Water proof Trousers Big All weather high vis jacket (Monarch Airlines) RST Leather Boots J&S Touring Gloves Unknown Leather and stuted summer gloves Carsbor Trip Matt Black Helmet BMW Gortex Suit and Leather gloves £unknown J&S Jacket £50 J&S Jeans £70 J&S Gloves £30 RST Boots £40 Helmet £99.99 Weatherproof Over trouser £3 (primart) Monarch Jacket £Free Gortex suit is good but old and not very good in rain or direct hot sunlight Unknown Gloves - nice for summer and short distance Gloves - ok as long as there is not to much rain Jacket - very warm in summer, ok in cold weather (inner coat helps) Jeans - hot and not very comfy if warn with no other trousers on lol helmet - great boots - leak in extream rain Over trousers - good for what they are Big jacket - great!

i have copper "anti tamper" locking wire at work haha

i have this in my house atm SPDT http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2360 nice strong switch note this is only going on my cbr125 lol

thats the plan but still needs to be water proof and not get shaken to bits it needs to be hidden but accessable lol im thinking under seat

cool thanks so people under stand ___ |__| <--- key | | / <-- new hidden switch | | <--- + Hot Battery Line

hand made immo now would it work? well i say immo more of an anti hot wire loom. basicly by cutting the ignition wire splicing in a new switch hidden SPST btw (off on) on the live and putting it right to nothing stopping the + getting into ignition key area

basicly its when you are stuck beyween 2 gears when i change gear i click up wait for a jerk on the lever return to normal then try and force the lever up a little if it does i've missed or not gone in gear propperly if not im in gear this works better with clutchles change not when you use your clutch lol

clutch is easy once parts are in your hands member new gasket on your sump of it will leaky and dont use same oil lol remmeber new filter also and its all easy peasy just copy how it came off

lol i did because it was deaded

im not sayin its fried just sayin if he does change it to change cable lol i know its normal on most bikes

makes more noise than when in gear? remember that when you change your clutch, to also do the cable if u can.