Via

Started reassembly of front wheel on ER5 but think I've pushed caliper pistons back too far Basically caliper will not bleed and have fluid leaking from seal, pistons won't move forward at all, tried putting air compressor onto caliper to push them out and they won't budge. Any ideas how to get them out? Or have I f**ked caliper?

Theory test done and dusted. When I done my car one about 15 years ago I was happy to score 100% on multiple choice, pleased to say I have kept that record and an ok 64 out of 75 for hazard perception which included a bit of nodding off thinking look at that twat then realising I should be clicking

Yeah my book values seem seriously low (21psi iirc) for tubed tyres, in fact last time I took it in to get HT cap changed I checked tyres before I left and when I got to bike place they looked at it as I pulled up and said tyres are way too low so run them higher now.

Will get them checked over weekend, won't have time to get it in anywhere till next month anyway.

Really don't think fuel would cause this... you'd more likely find it bogging down on acceleration and having difficulty starting (dumping too much fuel in while sitting there and then hydro locking). Air is what makes an engine go, hence turbos & superchargers are all about getting more air in quicker. If air leak is ruled out and you're positive cable is not jamming then I'd look at carb, is throttle body closing correctly?

Yeah been told an under inflated rear could also cause it but rear is inflated at least... will get both checked anyway as matter of course. To be honest I don't know if it did it from new or not as at first rode everywhere with an iron grip, but has been there since as long as I can remember. No pulsing under braking and don't appear to be any binding on brake.

Take it you mean choke, having a throttle under the seat would be a pain to ride How has choke been connected under seat? Could that have been a temp fix to a previous issue? Some photos would help.

How do you mean "in the throttle"? If into actual throttle body then all it suggests is you've sprayed carb cleaner into the carb if you spray onto carb and around joints (e.g. All the should be sealed places) and it don't affect it then nothing leaking and being sucked in. Leak would have to be inbetween throttle body and combustion chamber, basically it's allowing more air into combustion chamber as if throttle is open wider, normally that would not be sporadic as engine would just suck in as much air as it can get so would be over revving as soon as it fires up. It does sound more like a throttle cable sticking issue or choke (does it have cable driven choke on bars or is it on the carb itself?)

OK cool will get it booked in for a balance.

Has a "Must be serviced at approved dealer in accordance to service schedule" clause in warranty. Can't see any weights on wheel nor any residue which would suggest they've fallen off (that's not to say there weren't any though). Will take it in to get checked just wanted to see if missing anything obvious first.

Some good trips there! Certainly got your moneys worth out of it! Once I'm up and running with mine you'll have to let me know if you ever plan a trip south, not that there's the scenery here your other trips have had!

After some ideas regarding an annoying wobble on my max 2. Bike is 2016 and just under 2k on clock (no warranty though as not serviced by approved dealer... cost of servicing to warranty standard outweighed by just doing it myself and paying up for repairs if needed). I get a wobble on front wheel at about 20-40mph, once faster than that it seems to ease off but around those speeds loosening grip gets a noticeable shake in the bars. Tyre pressure is OK, as is tread (tyre still looks new). Would doubt head stem bearing would be worn at such a low mileage. Could be balance but want to rule out stuff I can check myself before putting hand in pocket. Never been dropped and no damage. Any advice what to look for?

Very true and hate it, will no doubt have other goes at getting rid of it before it is finished off as really does bug me (hence shocks going). Definitely not going to be sold before I get some enjoyment out of it, can't wait to be able to get on it. Amazing picture! Looks like it was a lovely ride. Don't think I've seen that one, will have a read.

When I did my CBT the instructors were talking about a debate they had over locking rear wheel with examiners, basically one examiner would allow a small amount of rear wheel locking if rider was still in control and not 'excessive' (but would not give an opinion on what was excessive) another said any locking at all is loosing control therefore a straight fail. As a result of that they now teach on emergency stop to only use front brake and to just pretend to use rear.

Lol true and a new axle oh and the foot pegs, rust round edge of those bothering me (cant get in with wire brush without destroying rubber). BUT, I have decided no more spending, bought a new battery and some more primer for tank (ran out after 2nd coat) and need more paint (need to give one piece of rear fairing a final coat and then the tank) plus most likely few more cans of clear coat (got some petrol resistant one, hopefully 1 can will do for tank as over twice the price of what normal one costs lol). That's it I've set my limit now and only what's needed to finish it off, tbh gone way over what I was originally planning to spend but did more than anticipated, still think I could make back what I've spent plus a bit more if I resold it but no plans on selling.

Just a small update. Not many pics for work I've done recently, most of it mundane. Finished back end off with a new chain and new shocks (really begrudged those as nothing wrong with old shocks other than looking poor but every time I looked at them it wound me up lol). And a reminder of what it looked like before... Gave a service and got exhaust back on, that ended up being an absolute nightmare but finally back on. Still no front wheel on yet and now moved onto the painting, all the fairing has is now primed ready for a rub down tomorrow and some paint to go on. Tank dent has been filled and will begin rub down of that tomorrow. Not much left to do now, hopefully will be back together for final pictures in a few weeks.

Yeah hopefully, worst case scenario I get 3 days off work to play on someone else's bike

Cheers, good point I did forget that Want to at least start it this weekend, plus got a box of new things to attach

Got my DAS booked for end of March excited but bricking it

Lovely finish to that, when you did fairing did you take it back to bare plastic first or just scuff the top layer? Really wishing I took tank to Wales with me now so I could have sand blasted it.

Didn't think of him looked at plenty of the other videos lol.

Ok cheers simple answer it is

Stupid question time but one I genuinely can't find an answer for online. I will be painting a tank which has aprox. 1 inch rust patch on the outside from a small dink where bike has been dropped in the past. This was obviously a few years ago as it is quite set in. I have my trusty wire brush on angle grinder which will take this off in seconds but produces some nice sparks, these obviously won't be very clever around petrol. Whilst tank is drained as well as I can, I can feel a few ml of petrol sloshing about in bottom still plus there's vapour to worry about (which we all know is the bit that goes boom). So what is the best way to empty the tank completely prior to messing about and sanding it down? The obvious method is fill with water and then drain but from what I can see there's no rust on the inside of tank and would preferably like to keep it that way and not tempt fate putting a load of water in there (plus the obvious issue of making sure I get it all out afterwards). Second thought is hook up air compressor to the it and just pump a load of air through for 10mins or so, would this be sufficient? Or has anyone got any other ideas?

They are indeed, they were obviously never powder coated by how easy everything came off in sand blaster and no protection from crap thrown from rear wheel. If you have a look at my thread on pitstop (rubber piece on swing arm) there's 2 posts from [mention]fastbob[/mention] showing how to better protect it (£100 bolt on or custom using bit of plastic from an old oil can).

Good question and no idea not actually tested that, only got as far as testing it works and pedal movement is good. Got a new chain to go on so rear wheel and brake not been adjusted completely and just put on for now, will check when I get front back on and get back to you. Was going to do that today but decided to have a day off, apart from time away I've spent every spare day on it so far and feeling it now, getting too old, so just going to veg and watch tv.