Via

Whatever it is we're talking about I agree Have you got forum setup to notify you every time someone mentions green?

I've got 3 different rust treatments in garage, I know one of them is really good, never remember which one though so normally end up doing it 3 times as for internal filter, being a £1300 new chinese bike I'm going to take a random guess it dont. ER5 is practically done just been a struggle with time lately, got a screen for it which went on the other week. What tyre was it? I just went with a pilot street on rear for mine. Got to take front wheel off again got the speedo pickup rotated wrong and it's got lugs on it so cant just loosen it and spin it round... typically it was last thing I went to connect! Doing the carb float needles seems to have sorted fueling issue, could have probably got away with a clean but tbh the lack of maintenance on the outside of bike is probably an indication of how well the internals have been looked after so thought may as well replace them for the sake of a few quid. Itching to get it on the road now.

That is definitely NOT ok to use, it has to be green.

Good point, in that case will probably just give it a coat of treatment. Most of it is external (e.g. under filler cap but outside of the tank) but with some going down the filler neck.

I always found milk bottles the best, unfortunately you would destroy the foil cap getting the milk out so I'd just fill it up and stick a piece of rag in the end to stop fuel leaking out.

Spot on by the way, took float chamber off again today ready for new gasket (managed to jiggle it off leaving carb on the bike) and was a tiny bit in bottom again so have it a prod and poke, sure enough it's water in there. So will get the tank drained and clean down the rust I can see then some fresh fuel.

Try a salad?

Datz cuz yu old nd not dwn wiv it bruv! Seriously though the music is horrendous! I'm obviously too old as well had to mute it for the odd bits I watched.

http://www.fz09.org/forum/attachments/23752d1479859090-primus-fuel-bottle-extended-range-sanity-sparegas.jpg

The inside from what I can see is clear but a lot of rust on left side of filler neck, obviously has seeped though cap and sitting around filler neck under cap. Will drain the tank and have a better check but if it just around filler neck should be easy enough to remove.

To be fair I didn't stick finger in it to see if it is squidy but behaved more solid, sank straight to bottom and didn't move like water, that said though may have been and got quite a bit of rust appeared around filler cap so wouldn't surprise me if water got in tank. TBH for size of tank I think I will probably just drain it and refill (well I'll put a jerry can worth in it, don't intend to be keeping it long enough to use a whole tank).

No worries That's a glass jar (well a fancy one with some kind of embossing, think its meant to have a candle in it ) with what was drained from carb, bottom orange stuff was jelly, top was normal fuel)

And wrong bike this is my 125. Found one though on ebay, should be here by the weekend.

Kind of sorted, fuel in carb had turned to jelly while it's been sat over winter, I have used it a fair few times since then though but think I was lucky and it then blocked main jet (glad it did it at home!) Annoyingly the float chamber gasket has stretched, tried to blag it but won't hold fuel (but runs now and revs fine again) just need to find new gasket as struggling with ebay atm

Awesome, well chuffed for you mate enjoy it

He's done great work, can't remember anyone doing so much to show that showed gingers can be famous as well, not since Ron Weasley.

Just to update gave a spray of carb cleaner over carb, joints and vacuum lines, no change in rpm so don't look like air leak anywhere, think I'm stuck now until I get carb off which won't be for a few days now. Hopefully by the time it's fixed I can put it up for sale

Ok turns out I've lied (it was 4.30am when I was trying to get it going)... Bike won't rev... With choke on it's ok to 3000 rpm after which it bogs down and stalls. With choke off it will idle but slightest touch of throttle and it stalls. Can only see one adjustment screw on carb which is idle, did raise that a little a while back because it was stalling on come down but has been fine for months after that. Got a felling carb will be coming off and that's £20 for parking this week

Ok cheers, got the Kwak battery in the kitchen on charge anyway so will give it a try with that one

Wondering if anyone can give any pointers, my sinnis kept cutting out this morning when I went to leave for work. Idles and revs ok but as soon as you go to pull away it stalls, will get to biting point ok and any further is like trying to pull away with rear brake jammed on and just bogs down until it stalls. Obvious points... Don't have a side stand switch Brakes are fine and free wheels fine Did this with choke either on or off, only other noticeable issue is battery as after 4/5 attempts when I went to start it battery was dead, that said I've flattened battery plenty of times and apart from hassle of bumping it I've never had any other issues because off it. Spark plug is fairly new (in fact whole bike still has less than 2k on clock). That's about all I can say well as I ended up having to take car so weren't late for work, my first test tonight will be if it does it with wheel off the ground but any hints on where to look after will be great.

Good luck

My car has 11mm bleed nipples apart from that can't think of a time I've ever come across one either. Annoyingly though I've come across 16mm heads quite a lot on cars and lots of sets tend to skip that one! And 7mm hex bits, most common size for calipers and never comes in a set!

Think they need a bit of a tweak, started yesterday which took a bit of time (but had been completely drained and stood for a while so expected it) after warmed up started again fine. Went out this morning to check it still has fuel (it does) and give it a start (it didn't). Cranked it for a good while with choke on / off, with and without throttle just wouldn't fire until battery ran out (which was a bit low anyway) got it on charge again now hopefully it may just be that.

Just had carbs off the ER5 to clean and replaced float needles. But also had in the pack new pilot screws so replaced them as well, then when I took a look at manual I then found out I was supposed to screw old ones in first to count turns from where they were to fully seated... Too late (only carbs I normally deal with are in pasta). There was also a table with standard being 1 1/4 turns, but a big lecture about how they are all different and shouldn't touch them. I've done it 1 1/4 turns and bike idles fine and revs ok (annoyingly still can't ride it to test more than that) am I likely to have been lucky or is it a lot more intricate than that and likely to have issues? On good side haven't dumped all the fuel into crankcase and on prime carbs don't want to dump all the fuel over swingarm now.

Cheers, yeah hopefully may help someone else as well one day... I've got posts from my first (and second) CBT just under 2 years ago on CBT thread somewhere, may have to re-read those lol, first time round almost ended up in a bush! At least I don't do that anymore lol