TimR

Without being the boring bloke Ipsga Information - what information is given about the bend. Road markings and signs , limit point ( how far you can clearly see the the road ahead) , crossview of road layout ( can you see over the hedge and see where the road heads ( telephone lines , hedges wtc etc) . Whats the road surface like , any drain covers potholes etc . Position - Rule 1 never sacrifice safety for a better view . Left hand bends where possible without sacrificing safety adopt a position near to the centre lines of road ( dont straddle lines , be prepared to move inwards to keep safety ) for the approach and beginning of the corner . This will allow you a enhanced view of the bend and the road ahead , it gives you more information . And for right hand bends where its safe to do so move towards the kerb/ hedge on the approach ( watch for debris / manholes etc) . This is not a hard and fast rule the main underlying constant is Safety . Speed - adopt the correct relevant speed based on your observations for road layout , conditions.. Limit point and that links to . Gears - be in the right gear ... you want a gear that allows flexibility, to accelerate and hold the bike constant without having to change gear in the corner . Acceleration - Is the limit point moving away ( bend is opening possibility to accelerate ) is the limit point static( bend is not changing severity or getting shallower ) maintain constant speed . Is the limit point getting nearer ( bend is getting tighter ) decrease speed using accelerator sense ( gently power down on throttle but gently ) until the speed is suitable and limit point information allows you change . As the road opens up look ahead and plan what your going to do using IPSGA Don't get lulled into the i must ride like a GP rider clipping the apex all times with my knee on the floor . Racetracks very rarely have hedges and potholes ( i know the TT does ok ) and they have a clear open view and they Don't have oncoming traffic to consider either . It all comes down to confidence and experience

Bookshop ? Maybe bodyshop ? Not that bodyshop but auto bodyshop

Have you put the pipes on the right way ? Did you swap the tap over ? If so is it the correct tap for the bike or a generic tap ?

Has this bike ever been running properly prior to this discovery regarding the vacuum pipe ? Or have you bought this bike as is and trying to get it running ? If its the second you may find others have tweaked the carb settings in a vain hope of getting it to run without realising the problem .. When asking for help give as much information as you can . What it was like prior Has it been recently worked on What is happening Try not to throw my mate down the pub says its x y z as ifso get them to sort it out . Most mechanics will always fault find by elimination . Anyone can google a solution to ... my bike doesn't run right and get 50k plus different responses and still not find the reason .

Always remember what mother would tell you

Good thing it's not a bikini forum then! Do you reckon they exist? try the Daily Mail web site https://m.facebook.com/thebikiniforum/

But ... if you have tried using air compresser to force the pistons out without success then there is still an issue with calipers .

Broom handle or such like ... wrap shed loads of gaffa tape around it .. make it so it is oversize to the recess in piston ..force it into said recess and twist as you gently pull outwards

lets have pictures ( real bike porn ) You want pictures of SB's head procedure ... !

Buy a foot pump or such like and inflate the tyre before riding please !

Do sv's have tilt switches ? If its been on its side it may have activated the fuel cutoff which will need resetting or replacing

Was it really cold when it happened ? It could be carb icing especially in same location if there is a dramatic temperature drop in that location Doh ... just seen Stu's post on the same subject ...

I could do with one of them. I have just read up on valve lapping and fully understand it. One thing I read up on instructed to use a suction cap, while the valve is back in the head, and turn until the compound doesn't make any grinding noise. Sounds simple enough, but the hard part will come putting the valve springs back in. No the hard part is keeping track of the collets and their replacement ... they are fiddly feckers .... block off any void in their area with paper towel or rag to save them dropping into the recesses May be beneficial to get hold of a magnetic wand. Have a clean working area and preferably on a non rough surface ( don't go dragging the head surface over a concrete floor etc )

Have you checked the mudguard is fastened tightly .. no cracks or signs of it flexing/twisting

If your removing the head its worth doing it . Its not as hard as it sounds .

Have you got valve grinding paste and spinner tool ? As you are disturbing the valves you will have to grind the seats to create a fresh face .

IF the fuel tap has failed and IF the carb doesn't shut off at full float height then Fuel can lead into the Cylinder and cause hydrolock and bend valves which will cause poor running . Gotta love vacuum fed petcocks Gtr1000 renowned gor depositing 28 litres of fuel into as much of the engine as it could physically hold and the remainder on the floor

Check your bar end weights are present and correct .

Place an ad in your training school if you got on with them

Air compressor and adaptor in plug hole or has been done using a compression tester . Remove cams so all valves closed ..build up pressure and 99.9% of time it works and allows spring compression to remove collets etc But if you have a dodgy seal your screwed .

Or spend a tenner on correct part http://startright.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1720_441_1511&products_id=77955

Pipe has been modified by looks of it http://suprememotos.com/uploads/postfotos/moto-roma-sk-125-2.JPG Perhaps using a heatshield or shielding wrap may help

Vacuum or pressure hose to the fuel tank is my guess

That's normal hence why lid or cover ; Bleeding master cylinder very much like calipers Have some rags ready Top up fluid Cover Locate pipe exiting reservoir to brakes it may have a bleed nipple on it or you will need to have spanner to undo banjo bolt .Do not undo yet .place a few rags under the bolt / or place tube on nipple so fluid doesnt contact paintwork etc Pump lever a few times Hold lever in Undo nipple/ banjo bolt ( beware on banjo bolt fluid can go multi directional so may be worth placing a rag over the area to protect you and area . Hold lever in and tighten bolt/nipple Repeat a few times Then bleed calipers . DO NOT ALLOW RESERVOIR TO GO BELOW MINIMUM

Have you bled master cylinder ? Place end of tube in fluid as the valves are not 100% airtight on the cheaper bleeders Pump andopen bleed nipple then close and repeat is best option Bleed until no air bubbles . Lever will not firm with bleed nipple open No 500ml is not normal check your method Top up reservoir Place lid or cover reservoir Place tube on nipple Pump lever a five times Hold lever in Undo bleed nippke whilst keeping pressure on lever at all times .lever will go towards bar as fluid releases . KEEP HOLDING LEVER IN Tighten bleed nipple Release lever only after nipple is tight Pause Check fluid level and top up if necessary And repeat above until no air bubbles are visible in tube Should only take a few rounds of above On both calipers