Colin the Bear

A smear of copper grease on the bolts will make them easier to remove next time. Steel into alluminium alloy can be a nightmare. Be very careful when applying any lubricants near brakes. Less is more.

Coca cola works because of the phosphoric acid. Cillit bang contains a lot more than cola. The iron oxide is converted to iron phosphate which is black and forms a seal to prevent further reaction in that spot. I'm not sure if it will work on a Chinese bike because they are built from used chewing gum and bogeys.

Sitting for a year will have done for the battery if it wasn't hooked up to something. Six years is about right for a battery.

Use small throttle openings in built up areas and shut the throttle completely if you see the law. Pull the clutch in and coast a little.

A little contamination of your fuel with WD40 or similar won't do any harm. I'm not sure that a drop of cillit bang in the tank would be a good idea.

Leather. It has to be leather.

Just a smear mind, we don't want any lumps of rubber in the sump

Which socks were you wearing? Plates sticking?

And the moral of the story is....If you've been tinkering and it stops running, check previous tinkering. I always dohttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/flyew.gif

Get a good staple gun and you won't have any problems.

I'd be carrying two spares though

If the engine is spinning it's obviously nothing to do with the part that spins it ie the starter. Starter fluid is fueling the engine when it runs so not an ignition problem Easiest way I can think of to check for fuel is to remove a plug lead and turn the engine over and remove a plug. You should have a wet plug. Definately sounds like a fueling problem.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Multime ... 859&sr=8-7 £3.40 including postage

Second only to shaft drive. On a long run the chain may have thrown off all the lube and be running dry with the conventional oiling "now and again" regime.

The first bit of the choke just opens the throttle and raises the revs doesn't it?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Multime ... 818&sr=1-6 £3.40 free delivery.

It's hard times out there. They try to sell you as much as they can. Probably thought you were a bit of a numpty and didn't know you had TMBF behind you lol

Silvermans is good for non designer rugged stuff, cheapish. http://www.silvermans.co.uk/Products/ta ... fault.aspx I can't imagine ever being comfortable in second hand trousers. There isn't enough fabreeze in the whole world.

This reminds me of when I worked at the rubber factory and an order from the Russian army for 3 million condoms came in. The dimensions required were a length of 10". We filled the order and marked the boxes medium. With shoes you can order a size bigger and wear socks. This might work for a helmet but you'll need to cut holes in the socks to see where you're going

You found the problem by taking it to bits and investigating. Well done. The internet is a good sounding board and can give you a heads up as to where the problem may lie, but you can't beat hands on and good old looking. The puller did the job and the damage was caused by inappropriate use. Protecting the threaded hole with a bolt or a plate would be the way to go. We learn by our mistakes is all I was saying and keeping your wits about you and your eyes open can help to not cause more problems as you go along. We've all done it. If it's only the first five turns that are damaged it might be possible to drill out the end of the hole where it's damaged. It depends on how long the bolt is that's going in there and if there's enough thread left to hold it all together .

Lesson learned here I hope. Replacing the thing that isn't broken doesn't solve the problem and using the wrong tools regardless may cause more problems than the original fault.

Are you twins?

they flex less and grip more so faster cornering in general For general road conditions faster cornering is irrelevant.

Caviat. Universal fit. May need the use of a hammer.

I've got tyres on the rear that were on when I bought the box 80k miles ago. The fronts are mismatched part worns. Never had a problem. Just driven round two stuck cars spinning their wheels in six inch of snow up my front street. Parked up and went back to them and pushed them out. With a little voluble instruction. A little less pressure for the winter helps and if you get stuck in the snow drop the pressures to as little as 10lbs /sq" on the drive wheels. It increases the footprint. You'll need to reinflate as soon as you're out. Yipes look at me discussing car tyres in pitstop on a bike forumhttp://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/smiley-whacky110.gif