rollazuki

Slight jolt when selecting gear....You wanna hear a mid to late 90's fireblade.

You can load the front tyre up quite hard, shift weight foreward, on and off brakes gently and progressively, not in the wet tho.

Brake hard into corner, then ease up before the apex, off the brakes gently mind you, dont just let go, itll unsettle the front. Feather, or drag the rear in slow corners, dampens down any engine or throttle activity, so less likely to spin the wheel etc. If a corner tightens or a hazzard approaches mid bend, Ill try to stand the bike up and brake HARD(if time and space allows) otherwise, gently, then turn in deep letting the brake off. Non of the above in the wet, I ride like a wuss in the rain, and am still alive because of this.

think whats in the engine dude, crankshaft spinning pretty quick, turning the clutch assembly which in turn spins the input shaft in the gearbox. Now that is covered in oil, so although its in neutral, there is still some drag, so its gears try to turn in speed with the shaft, so spinning the gears on the output shaft, thus spinning the sprocket, and therefore the rear wheel. Its quite normal, bikes do it, a car ticking over on a lift will have the tyres rotating slowly, no problems at all Bill. Rolla

The more fun the bike is, the more often itll need maintainance to avoid blow ups. Lowly tuned bikes do loads between services, higher tuned bikes need regular servicing. Race bikes are serviced every meeting, and parts like pistons replaced regularly to avoid breakage. WR250x, modern engine, fairly mildly tuned, ok to do a fair few miles between servicing, but start using it hard offroad, or raced, and you are looking at more frequent servicing. With the 710 kit and cam in mine, Im gonna be doing oil and filter every thousand miles, small price to pay for the smiles tho.

nice lid, get that clear visor in the bin!

Look, its like this: If you disconnect a battery lead and measure current between that lead and the battery terminal and there is non, zero, nada, then THERE IS NO CURRENT! This means that NOTHING is drawing any power from the battery, simple as that. If any power is drawn from the battery, wether its lights, alarm, or ignition, it travels thru the battery leads. If there is no current draw on the battery at all via those leads, then the bike is drawing NO POWER. You are either buying bad batteries, or dropping them on the way home, or drastically overcharging them. There is no black magic with electricity, there is either some kinda circuit, or there isnt. Simple as that. All the best, Rolla

grand plus for top gear, 600 mid price Id guess.

OK, beg,borrow, or steal a multitester with current(amps) reading on it. 10 amps is more than ideal, but you will probably need less after initial tests. Ammeters need to be in series, not in parallel like volt testers, so disconnect one battery lead(either will do) and complete the circuit by putting the multimeter leads between the battery lead(disconnected) and the battery terminal. You are now gonna see on the meter, every amp pulled from the battery. turn the ign on and turn a light on, you will see the current rise, as amps are drawn, ok! Turn the ignition off and see what happens. Probably with it set on the 10amp scale youll see nowt, so go down the range on the meter into milliamps, and my guess is that you will see a reading. You shouldnt see anything at all with ign off, but Id guess you can see a few milliamps on the gauge. If this is the case, proceed as follows: One by one, remove the bikes fuses and replace them, if at any point the reading drops to zero you have found the circuit which is sucking the power. If that fails, try again, but one by one undo (every) multiplug on the bike, again one of em should cause the reading to drop. When you have found a fuse or a plug that causes the meter to read zero amps, check that circuit. Maybe there is a wire rubbing onto the frame, a switch corroded internally, or similar, but now you know the bit you need to fix. If you connect the meter as described and there is NO current drain, you are either special! or leaving the side light circuit on(muppet!) good luck.

Its cos mine hasnt got enough cylinders.

Ive got Frank Thomas Aqua fore. They have adjusters above the knee so you can slacken em for jeans, and tighten em to go commando...oooer..... Hip and knee armour, removable insulated windproof liner, breathable, waterproof, damned nice kit. Worked a treat thru last few weeks torrential rain.

OK, remove carb, remove float bowl, and clean out with proprietary brand carb cleaner(blow compressed air thru jets etc(carefull with eyes)) Position carb so float is just rested against its (sprung) stop and measure float height. On some bikes it is set by using a transparent tube to measure petrol depth. Follow manual for this one. Refit carb, warm bike up. The pilot screw is usually set approx 2 1/2 turns out from just bottomed. This is a good starting point. letting bike tick over, turn anticlockwise(outwards) 1/4 turn. What did the engine do? If it increased in revs, wait a mo and turn 1/4 turn again. Do this until the revs fall slightly, then turn it a 1/4 turn back. 1/4 turn increments only ok, you could do 1/8 if you are really patient. If it immediately starts to lower the revs on the first turn, go the other way. ie 1/4 turn in each time, until the revs start to fall, then 1/4 turn back out. After you have done it, rev the bike and let it fall to tickover. If it hangs for a moment then settles its a little rich(1/4 turn in) or if it drops, falters , then picks back up to tickover, a little lean(you guessed it, 1/4 turn out) You can always fall back on the factory setting if it all goes wrong. When you are done, rub a good smear of grease round the airscrew threads to stop it corroding in place.

Do you not drain, and pre=heat the oil before use? Amateur.....

Yeah I know, but it makes a lovely BRAAAAP noise when I do rev it.

Lubrication is there the minute the oil pump turns, the oil is designed to work at probably -15 to +150 centigrade so no problems there..... BUT.... The piston is a lightweight ally component, and expands and contracts quite a bit with heat. At operating temp, it fits really nicely in the bore(big solid lump that only expands a bit) When the piston is cold, it basically rattles up and down the bore, clattering its skirt up the bore wall and doing itself no good at all. Warm it up first, it all fits together well, and makes power, rev it when cold, and it wears the piston quicker. simple.

Get some decent leather jeans(pref one piece) Remember its an ickle bike, youre gonna be hunched up, and a jacket/trouser combo are gonna try to part company. One piece is gonna make sure your kidneys keep warm, and protect your lower back in a spill. Its a top dollar bike, get some good gear to go with. Rolla

710cc single, approx mid fifties bhp(not sure as not dynoed since cam fitted) a gnats over 100mph real figure. 102mph on limiter on dyno last run, gets there regular son......plenty of juice .....

100mph....lol

Carb icing, try a premium brand petrol or additive. As days draw colder, you might get problems again. It doesnt need to be icy weather to happen, its caused by the fuel evaporating lowering the temp of the jet in the carb, killing the performance. The main jet will ice up, and the idle circuit stays clear hence the bike will run and not rev. Blame poor quality fuel available these days. Thats my guess. Rolla

I got an oxford one, top bit of kit, easy to use, fasten a pair of throwovers down with it, suddenly you have an estate car(well not quite)

Has it got a tab washer locking the sprocket nut in place? Have you folded it back? Ill be honest, I have at times ended up with a 2x4 timber wrapped in rags to avoid damage wedged thru the swingarm and (alloy) wheel spokes and a 2 foot breaker bar on some stubborn sprocket nuts. They can be a real bind sometimes. Douse it in my old friend wd40 for a day or two, see if it helps. Rolla

At first I thought carb float height, but then do you mean it only restarts after 5 minutes of cooling down........ If thats the case Id say it was siezing. Is it correctly jetted? Have you increased the flow 2 stroke oil? That can also cause a 2 smoke to sieze! Is the fuel tank breather working, is the breather pipe trapped? try it with the fuel cap off. Report back.. Rolla ps, pull the plug and inspect it, what condition is it in?

Anyway, the 636 has Kawasaki on the tank.......Itll be lucky to last a full lap.......

Hayabusa, 185+ on speedo, prob relates to 160+real mph. Unfortunately, bike wasnt mine. My old Nitro'd Bandit, approx 175mph. Rev limiter, top gear, calculated speed(speedo had given ghost up long before.). Fastest ever seen on speedo, over 200mph, on a 'Busa, on a paddock stand, in top. Twas terrifying. Current bike........about a ton. No more.

Burnout.....