rollazuki

dont point it down the sparkplug hole. You are trying to warm up the barrel, not the piston. You need to get the barrel warm, so it expands, frees itself from the piston, and can be worked loose.

Airgun! If thats not possible, get someone to hold the back brake of the bike on, and get a big cracker bar and appropriate socket, and undo it. You did leave the chain on didnt you......

Ive owned Shoei and AGV, but at present, own an Arai, and a Simpson. The fit on both is superb, but Ihave to say, by comparison to my last lid(AGV) the Arai is noisy and draughty. The Simpson is always draughty, but hey, it looks wicked! Rolla

Nice one Vicki. Just hope the idea catches on, we could all use someone with some idea at the roadside when the inevitable happens. Excellent work!! Rolla

ok, what we know so far, the motor is a 2 stroke strimmer motor, its got a(im guessing) 1 piece head/barrel assembly. The piston is definitely siezed into the bore, so as you pull the barrel up, it takes the piston with it. The only way to unsieze it, is either to pour some hot oil into to spark plug hole, or gently heat up the whole barrel assembly with a hot air gun/blowlamp/hairdryer. You need to expand the barrel enough to free off the siezed piston. Id guess that when(if) you get the barrel and piston to come apart, you will find they are both very knackered. Id guess as you dont know the exact origin of it, you will have a fair amount of trouble getting spares. You may find a piston/reboring specialist can source a new piston and possible re-bore or re-plate the barrel to suit. My guess is tho that for the money, you could probably source a working pit bike like yours. Id be surprised if you get it running again economically. Good luck, Rolla ps, ensure no petrol is around BEFORE taking a heat source to the barrel.........

looks like a strimmer or weedeater motor. ickleaircooled thingumy(that would be a 2 stroke)

Dude, the bike in the picture is a 4 stroke......... Hang on, Ill google its ass...... Yup http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/suzuki_dr_100_1987.php If that is the bike it has 4 strokes(count em) Its way more complicated than a 2 stroke, and prone to making expensive noises if the cam timing aint correct. Lets face it so far tho.......at present its a non stroke.......

the dr100 is a 4 stroke motorcycle with a camshaft running in the cylinder head, the picture of engine parts is from a 2 stroke engine, very much more simple. Search the net for a manual for the dr100. Id guess not that dissimilar from a dr125, and follow the dissasembly procedure. OR, make plenty of notes as you take it apart, so when it goes back together, it stands a chance of running. For example, you need to know how to set the cam timing up, as you have the piston siezed you cant move it to tdc for the strip down, so you really need to find things out like timing marks etc.

RTV (room temperature vulcanising) silicon sealant will go off if left in a little heap in fresh air. Anaerobic doesnt. It remains liquid until precluded from air, hence its expensive I guess. It then goes a bit rubbery and a bit fibrous(a bit like gasket material) RTV it isnt. Duke engine cases are fitted with the stuff, as are gixers if they are in my garage!!

Orange 'ducatibond' is not the same as rtv. Its an anaerobic gasket solution. not rtv.

If you need to create gaskets with little effort, tip is to but some anaerobic gasket solution. Basically its a goo that when sandwiched between two bits of engine, goes all firm and fibrous, creating a gasket(anaerobic, cos it goes hard when it gets no air!!) Ducati use a bright orange one on their engine side casings(excellent stuff) and I believe Wurth make one, known in the trade as kermit spunk as its green. As long as there is o need for a gasket for a particular clearance, then both of these work very well. A proper gasket is good, but anaerobic sealant is sooooo easy.(not cheap mind you) And please dont just use some orrible old gasket cement from the local motor factor, its not good practice.

OK, Im gonna ask a few real basic questions. What kinda bike is it? Was it running before it was laid up for 2 years? Have you just bought it? Can you be sure of its history? What the hell are you gonna do with an allen key to get a piston out? The general public DO need to know!!

Got an Rx. They are grrrrreat. But naughty for road use. Visor hole doesnt impede vision at all, but the feeling of security from the MAHOOSIVE chin piece is excellent. They dont submit em for road legality as the hole is too small and they will never pass. They do however meet just about every other race standard known to man(hence damned safe) and have a nomex liner. They also look(in my opinion, so bound to be correct!) cooler than just about anything helmet related. I love mine. Rolla

hopefully itll be ford focus st asbo orange with black visor by the weekend....

Is it still going ahead with only 22 bodies?? Rolla

The problem with a lot of the 'government' tests, is that they are circumvented by very simple means. Me n Bulli used to work in a bike shop, and many was the young lad who would have a spill in his cheap end helmet, come in to buy a new one, and leave us the old one to dispose of. We used to have hours of fun doing this, tyre machines are particularly good at destroying lids........... Anyway, we found a LOT of cheaper lids simply had loose sheets of kevlar weave tucked under the lining. These were advertised and logo'd as kevlar mix helmets, and the kevlar sheet was always in the crown of the lid(the test point at that time), thus making it have a 'safe' area. The rest of the lid is thus (Id guess) somewhat under par. My other thought, as Ive already mentioned, is that Arai, AGV, etc etc, do their own safety testing and design. A lot of the smaller manufacturers share shells, presumably supplied by some far eastern manufacturing plant, with who knows what by the way of product design/testing/quality assurance. Another example. I own a Simpson RX. Its not legal for street use. You know why, the visor hole is basically too narrow. Its got a nomex lining, it passes every race safety standard known to man, but its not for road use. I tell ya, its safer than any far eastern lid with a E mark on it, but the standards say not. Its a bit of a lottery Id say, you can get the standard ratings for not a lot of money, but do you buy quality? For my head, Id buy quality.

smoke and fire......lol You ever heard of a wet compression test. It kinda involves oil in the bores.... If the plug it out, theres very little chance of fire or smoke, and to be fair so far, Id say this motor is gonna struggle to make either. If its that siezed wardy, strip it, its not gonna run without it.

piston o ring, eh? Its a gonner wardy, it needs stripping and rebuilding. It doesnt just sieze cos its a bit stuck, its siezed cos its melted a bit, and glued itself to the barrel. Like I said, its a gonner, sorry. Thats assuming the piston is siezed. It could be a siezed crank, or primary drive, or gearbox........

check hein gerike, they have several, at decent prices.

When it all comes back down to earth, If you wanna buy a tinpot 50quid helmet cos it scores well in the sharp test, buy one. If you wanna buy a 400 quid lid from a well known, race approved manufacturer, then buy one. Hopefully neither of you will ever crash and need it, but when you do, I hope you are both safe........... Just an interesting point tho. I was looking at low end motoX lids at the weekend, and noticed a lot of the current brands of cheaper lids are all using the same shell. That means there is probably one 'unknown' manufacturer of helmet shells out far east, selling the shells to the likes of HJC etc, who add linings, paint etc and their own decals. If this is the case, do you wonder about the quality control of the mass producer of the shells...........?

Theres loads of em in sheffield. Theyre great, and I can only assume speed limit free(why else would they put an empty lane thru the city traffic.......) Problem is, car drivers (Id guess) never notice that I can legally drive em, and look at you like youre a criminal as you cruise past em in the bus lane.

A skim will make the motor feel a bit crisper, both by increasing the compression, and tightening up the squish area, BUT, will it lead to mechanical interference?? This is where you are joining the world of engine improvers, and thus have to take each action seriously? You need a dry build to measure head/piston/valve clearances. You need to assess if the camchain tensioner has enough capacity to cope with the increased camchain slack. Only then can you decide if its possible. Worth looking tho.

poor earth on the engine. I seem to remember it should have an engine to chassis earth strap at the back of the motor, it may be missing, best bet is to ensure all engine mount bolts are good n tight, and if neccesary, fit a lead from the casing to a good earth point on the chassis. Also ensure the earth from the battery to the chassis is good.

Fobbed off in there.......cant believe that.

This isnt a police scam is it, so they can gather us all together then nick us for noisy pipes etc........